Intro to desert towers

Hi all,

My sisters and I are brainstorming a potential desert trip in early March. I live in Switzerland but I'll be back in the states for a week and we all might meet up and go climb for 2 days. I'm pretty experienced with trad / crack (up to 11d/12a) and multipitches (up to 36 pitches), but they are not as experienced. They climb around the 10 level, mostly on sport but they have some basic multipitch experience. And they're not very seasoned in crack climbing unfortunately, but this could be a fun opportunity for an older brother sandbagged adventure...

Unfortunately I know almost nothing about the amazing climbing you guys have, even though I've been dying to climb there for a long time. I have a few questions:

1. Are there any easier, more intro level desert towers?
2. Is early March a good time? I realize it may be cold, but we could try for a south facing route if it's too cold. 

Thanks in advance and sorry if this is a question you get a lot. Also happy to do my own research if you can point me in the general direction of guidebooks or a MP page.

Cheers

Owl Rock, South Six Shooter, Devil's Golfball, The Pickle are all intro level and fun. March should be good for all of those.

Erik is giving good advice.

I spent a summer high up in the Rhone Valley at Crans Sierre. Switzerland is interesting.

Thanks both, I'll look into them. And yes Switzerland is beautiful, I imagine beautiful like the desert while being almost opposites. 

We (two visiting Brits) had a brilliant 2-week blast through Zion Walls and Moab Towers in September and just did a zoom Slideshow - available on catch up here: https://vimeo.com/788234492#t=1816

Hopefully that provides some entertainment if not inspiration! Cheers, Dom 

Castleton Tower--either the Kor-Ingalls or North Chimney are good beginning routes--both 5.9, and not sandbagged.  It's in a wonderful place too.

Otto's Route on Independence Monument

In Search of Suds on Washer Woman

Easter island tower on the Bridger Jacks. Second pitch should be right up their alley.

Allen Sandersonwrote:

In Search of Suds on Washer Woman

For an intro level tower? For visiting Swiss climbers not knowing what is involved in getting there?

Marc801 Cwrote:

For an intro level tower? For visiting Swiss climbers not knowing what is involved in getting there?

Technically American, just living abroad ;)

But I've read about the approach (at least on MP), and it seems a bit spicy. Might be a bit too spicy for a quick trip out there.

Tom Vwrote:

Technically American, just living abroad ;)

But I've read about the approach (at least on MP), and it seems a bit spicy. Might be a bit too spicy for a quick trip out there.

It's not difficult 4x4 driving, but it absolutely requires high clearance 4x4 and knowing that the 20-ish miles of driving on the Shafer Trail and The White Rim will take around 3 hrs. That's after the 40 minute drive from Moab. You'll also need a day permit for the White Rim. And the park requires 4x4, not AWD.

Here's a view from where you would park. Washer Woman is the middle tower.

Remember that 10d desert tower off-width is burly - especially so for sport climbers not very familiar with crack climbing.

Thanks for the additional beta! I think since we only have 2 days the current plan is to go to south six shooter, send then castleton. Both have pretty mild approaches from what I've read, and look very fun. Not super adventurous, but good for a first trip. I also want my sister to enjoy herself and not get uber sandbagged and hate it. 

How are they on rapping? the Castleton raps will feel spacey, especially going down the N. Face. I would not call the Castleton approach mild unless you're in good hiking shape. If you want to give them a good eye opener, try Ancient Art.  Mild approach, face climbing crux, some mellow crack and a summit they will never forget.

 I second the Easter Island tower in Indian Creek, face climbing to a cool summit. No far from S. Six Shooter, easy hike. 

Good luck!

Steve Williamswrote:

Castleton Tower--either the Kor-Ingalls or North Chimney are good beginning routes--both 5.9, and not sandbagged.  It's in a wonderful place too.

Kor-Ingalls isn't sandbagged?

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/123137873/notorious-59-sandbags

Branon Rochellewrote:

Kor-Ingalls isn't sandbagged?

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/123137873/notorious-59-sandbags

I'd say very baggy but I'm a know-nothing Brit ;-)  Pics and TR here - you decide! 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2022/09/16/castleton-tower/

Cheers, Dom 

Allen Sandersonwrote:

Otto's Route on Independence Monument

In Search of Suds on Washer Woman

Otto's route, on the other hand, is a really delightful cruise which I'd highly recommend. 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2019/08/30/colorado-national-monument-ottos-route/

and how about a mention for Ancient Art as another mellow but unforgettable Tower? 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2022/09/15/ancient-art-fisher-towers/

Dominicwrote:

I'd say very baggy but I'm a know-nothing Brit ;-)  Pics and TR here - you decide! 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2022/09/16/castleton-tower/

Cheers, Dom 

Nice write up. I particularly approve of the "5.9 (LOL)" on P3. I did a little data drifting on MP and noticed that many/most of the fell/hung notes were from relatively experienced trad leaders onsighting at 10s and 11s and that most fell on P3. Yep.