How to make a DIY bolt puller tool: Doodad 4.0 updated instructions + shopping list

Make your own bolt puller tool. It's quick, easy, and inexpensive (~$60 + shipping) 

Total assembly time = 10 minutes for the simplest version, 20 minutes for the permanent handle version

  [I was going to do a video, but I think this is more useful for someone following the steps]

Steps: 

1. Turn a screw: 10mm stop collar. 3/32" or 2.5mm Allen wrench. Optional step: drill a shallow divot where that set screw makes contact. You could also use some Loctite on it since it won't need to be removed. Time: 10 seconds
2. Make a cut thru some hex tubing with a hack saw: Make it approximately 8.5" long. (Doesn't need to be exact). Time: 3 minutes  [faster if you have a fiber cutoff wheel]
3. Drill two small holes in the hex tubing: use an 1/8" drill bit to start a shallow hole about 1/2" from the end and in the middle of one of the 6 facets. Once the bit is about 1/16" deep, angle towards the nearest opposite corner. Make another one on an adjacent facet to the left or right. Your goal is to push a wire or a key ring thru to function as a backstop for the nylock 1/2-20 nut so the tubing can't fall off. Time: ~5 minutes
4. Wrap some duct tape: put the steel hex cap on and twist it until it is centered. 1 wrap of duct tape will hold it in place (screws are unnecessary). Time: 30 seconds
5. If you are looking to put in minimal effort, skip to step 7 -        you're almost done.
6. Optional steps if you want to bolt the wrench/handle to the tool: 
   1. Start with 1/8" x 1.5" x 6" aluminum flat stock from the hardware store. Cut off a 3" long rectangle with a hack saw. Time: 1 minute
   2. Drill a 5/8" hole using a step bit (Harbor Freight sells one for $5.99). Position the center of the hole centered between the 3" ends, but about 1/2" from an edge. Time: 2 minutes
   3. Drill a hole 7/32" hole (or 13/64" for a tighter fit) in each jaw of the aluminum wrench at about 1.25" from the ends of the jaws, then assemble the plate/wrench/tool in order to mark where those holes line up on the plate you made. Drill matching 7/32" holes thru the aluminum plate. Time: 3 minutes
   4. Use a couple of #10-24 x 1" pan head screws and Nylock nuts (or wing nuts) to secure the wrench to the plate. Time: 1 minute
7. Thrust bearing goes on
8. Big washer goes on
9. Nylock 1/2-20 jam nut: Hold the 10mm stop collar with channel-lock pliers or put the whole screw in a padded jaw vise. Use a crescent wrench to tighten the 1/2-20 jam nut all the way to the end. A spark plug socket on a ratchet also works. Time: 1 minute
10.  Put the spacer tube on, add a big key ring or a short piece of copper wire and twist it. Done.

Tool list:

• drill
• 3/32" (or 2.5mm) Allen wrench
• tape measure
• hack saw
• 1/8" drill bit
• duct tape or strapping tape
• crescent wrench
• channel-lock or vise grip pliers
  • tools for optional steps:
    • step bit that goes to at least 5/8"
    • 7/32"or 13/64" drill bit
    • screw driver (Phillips)

Shopping list:

    [ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832808929212.html ] - custom 1/2-20 threaded ball screw from RDB Bearing and Mechanical Parts. $25.73 shipped, 776 in stock as of 11/16/2022.

    [ https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804641431165.html ] - 6-68mm aluminum wrench. $8.14 shipped, 987 in stock as of 11/16/2022.

    [ https://www.mcmaster.com/9063T34/ ] - 12" of 1/8" wall 1" wide aluminum hex tubing. $15.54 as of 11/16/2022

    [ https://www.mcmaster.com/6056N18/ ] - 10mm stop collar. $2.80 as of 11/16/2022

    [ https://www.mcmaster.com/2879T33/ ] - 5/8" thrust bearing. $2.49 as of 11/16/2022

    [ https://www.mcmaster.com/98026A117/ ] - Grade 8 beefy washer. $3.76 as of 11/16/2022

    [ https://www.mcmaster.com/90101A255/ ] - thin Nylock 1/2-20 nut. $5.75 for 5, (or buy single one at hardware store)

    [ https://www.mcmaster.com/94818A036/ ] - steel hex cap. $10.38 for 5.

    *[ https://www.mcmaster.com/8975K581-8975K644/ ]* 1/8" x 1.5" x 6" long flat aluminum bar $1.93

    *[ https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-24-x-1-in-Combo-Pan-Head-Stainless-Steel-Machine-Screw-3-Pack-801561/204596472 ] - 10-24 x 1" screws for bolting on the wrench handle $1.38 at Homeless Despot

    *[ https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-24-Stainless-Steel-Nylon-Lock-Nut-4-Pack-800121/204274165 ] - lock nuts for the screws. Use wing nuts instead if you plan to take off the handle often. $1.38 also.

        *=optional, for bolting the wrench/handle to the tool permanently

Photos:

key ring backstop version above ^

(these are headed to the ASCA- no, I don't have any for sale)

Admin: can we make this post sticky in the hardware forum? If not I'll just bump it every 6 months or so.

Very nice Mr. German! One heck of a contribution you have made and shared with us. 

Btw my luddite acme thread tools still serve me well. 

Thank you!

Looks great Greg! Thanks for taking the time to add all the photos of the steps. 

A big thanks to Greg for designing/building and Luke Stefurak for funding this batch, this will be a great little fleet for the ASCA to loan out to stewards!

Awesome! Thanks for the R&D and especially the linked parts list. Ordering some stuff now. I'll ship anyone a steel hex cap since I'll have four leftovers.

Have you used these yet? Looks like you might need to bring a breaker bar to get enough torque with that short handle.

Adam Fleming wrote:

Awesome! Thanks for the R&D and especially the linked parts list. Ordering some stuff now. I'll ship anyone a steel hex cap since I'll have four leftovers.

Have you used these yet? Looks like you might need to bring a breaker bar to get enough torque with that short handle.

I've been using the short wrench for a couple of years now- no need for a breaker bar or an extension. The ball screw has more than enough mechanical advantage.

Alec Baker wrote:

Just a heads up, the ball screw from aliexpress is estimated to arrive about a month after ordering, so order well before you need it.

You also need coupler nuts to pull wedge bolts which is explicitly stated in previous threads, but not this one. 

Really appreciate all your hardwork on this Greg, thank you for all your contributions!

De nada. I placed my order on October 15th and they predicted it would arrive on November 15th. It arrived early on November 1st. Shipping has been much better than it was in 2020-2021.

If you get the McMaster-Carr reducing coupling nut, be sure to bore out the middle section beyond 0.375" or it will jam the end of the wedge bolt and fix it permanently in the coupling nut.

Ordered the ball screw Nov 16, tracking shows it shipped pretty fast. Last update was Dec 1: Carrier note: [CHATTANOOGA,37421] Shipment Received, Package Acceptance Pending

Seems like its still held up here in town... Anyone else have issues with getting this particular part delivered? The wrench was ordered at the same time and was delivered asap, like first week of December.

Ali's customer service isn't letting me ask any questions regarding the shipping hold.

Thanks

Henry

Has anyone come up with a modified design that has a ratcheting handle? Sometimes, especially when rebolting something incredibly steep, it's impossible to hang directly in front of the bolt and some angles can be much harder than others to generate force because there is nothing to brace against. A longer handle doesn't really help since it would just be more out of reach. For the same reason I'm planning on switching to a ratcheting tap handle, conveniently those already exist.

Alex, the best I've found is screwing the coupler in/out by turning the whole tool, which changes position of the handle to get better angle (such as when in a corner, under a roof, or otherwise hard to get full rotation). If not bolted on, the wrench can be reset 180 degrees to give you half turns, which could then be fine tuned by turning the coupler. its quiet infrequent that I don't just use the full rotation. The old Hurly tools don't work as well overall, but can use a regular 3/4” ratcheting wrench.  you might conceivably be able to use a pipe wrench on the round section of the ball nut to get shorter throw too? I haven't tried that, and it may not bite in the hardened steel. In weird positions, traverses and overhangs, using hooks and/or gear to get a better position helps a lot, as can using the bolts above/below to tension yourself into the wall. 

Henry, I've always received the part within about 3 weeks. if it made it to the US it may be an issue with USPS (or other local carrier) you might copy the tracking into a browser to see if you get different information. The tracking number should be the same for local carrier as Chinese. In the past Ali has shown outdated info, but local carrier is up to date. I ordered 20 for a batch of tools Nov 21, and received them two weeks ago. you might also try messaging the individual merchant. I use "RDB Bearing" and they've always been very responsive (and in most cases don't get paid by Ali until the part is delivered, so they want it to get to you too). If it was lost in transit, I can ship you one from CO.         

Peter Thomas wrote:

Alex, the best I've found is screwing the coupler in/out by turning the whole tool, which changes position of the handle to get better angle (such as when in a corner, under a roof, or otherwise hard to get full rotation). If not bolted on, the wrench can be reset 180 degrees to give you half turns, which could then be fine tuned by turning the coupler. its quiet infrequent that I don't just use the full rotation. The old Hurly tools don't work as well overall, but can use a regular 3/4” ratcheting wrench.  you might conceivably be able to use a pipe wrench on the round section of the ball nut to get shorter throw too? I haven't tried that, and it may not bite in the hardened steel. In weird positions, traverses and overhangs, using hooks and/or gear to get a better position helps a lot, as can using the bolts above/below to tension yourself into the wall. 

Henry, I've always received the part within about 3 weeks. if it made it to the US it may be an issue with USPS (or other local carrier) you might copy the tracking into a browser to see if you get different information. The tracking number should be the same for local carrier as Chinese. In the past Ali has shown outdated info, but local carrier is up to date. I ordered 20 for a batch of tools Nov 21, and received them two weeks ago. you might also try messaging the individual merchant. I use "RDB Bearing" and they've always been very responsive (and in most cases don't get paid by Ali until the part is delivered, so they want it to get to you too). If it was lost in transit, I can ship you one from CO.         

Peter, I am DM'ing you regarding this

Alex R wrote:

Has anyone come up with a modified design that has a ratcheting handle? Sometimes, especially when rebolting something incredibly steep, it's impossible to hang directly in front of the bolt and some angles can be much harder than others to generate force because there is nothing to brace against. A longer handle doesn't really help since it would just be more out of reach. For the same reason I'm planning on switching to a ratcheting tap handle, conveniently those already exist.

This is the primary reason I am sticking with the acme thread dodad 2.0 design Thanks Greg German!. I use an acme thread coupler nut as my turner. It has a 7/8" hex which is much smaller than a regular nut for the 5/8" acme thread. A 7/8 ratchet wrench is the perfect tool to crank on the dodad when my guts are on fire working in the super steep zone!

Adam Fleming wrote:

Awesome! Thanks for the R&D and especially the linked parts list. Ordering some stuff now. I'll ship anyone a steel hex cap since I'll have four leftovers.

Have you used these yet? Looks like you might need to bring a breaker bar to get enough torque with that short handle.

Adam,

you still have those hex caps? I am building two for our ASCA chapter and can't find the caps anymore. I'll DM you.

Topher Dabrowski wrote:

Adam,

you still have those hex caps? I am building two for our ASCA chapter and can't find the caps anymore. I'll DM you.

I think I may have a couple left if you’re having issues. Give me a holler if Adam doesn’t get back to yah!

Yabr sold

Zay in Monterey wrote:

If anyone is interested, I have a YABR (bolt removal tool) that I think I actually purchased from Greg(?).

It is unused.

I think I bought it for 150-ish bucks. I'll sell it to whoever is interested for 60 bucks (plus shipping).

Pm'ed.

If anyone else is building these don't order the McMaster Carr 5/8" oil-embedded thrust washer as is referred to on the ASCA doodad build page. The power screw outer dia. is 16.05mm and the 5/8" washer will not fit the shaft and racks as the device is turned. I have found it binding up and damaging the power screw.  

As others have noted, the hex caps no longer are sold. I guess it’s nice for centering the screw, but is it actually necessary? 

The hex cap isn't absolutely necessary, but it is there to keep the aluminum tube from getting deformed and mushrooming. Since the retaining nut is such a close fit inside the hex tubing, any ding on the business end of the tubing will make it so that the nut will jam there - that's not really an issue, but if it deforms enough the coupling nut will also not fit. 

I went looking for an alternative, and this shim washer might work: 

1008-1010 Carbon Steel Wide-Rim Ring Shim Zinc-Plated, 0.048" Thick x 3/4" ID x 1-1/2" OD

 The ID is the same 3/4" hole as the previous hex cap, but the OD sticks out enough that I think it could be bent around the corner with a hammer (it's low carbon steel and thinner than a penny). If it is possible to bend a few tabs around the aluminum hex tubing with a hammer (or bend it around a 3/4" bolt and nut as a stand-in anvil), it could be epoxied to the end of the tubing as a protective, long-wearing tip.

Not an ideal solution, but it provides some protection. I used a combination of hammering and shaping with the vise after pinching the washer between the bolt head and nut (which is the same size as the aluminum). If you were to make some cuts you could get two more tabs for more gluing surface.