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Outdoor Bouldering within 90 minutes of Central Massachusetts?

Original Post
Doug L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0

Hey all; I'll be in the Worcester MA area for Thanksgiving. I know there's a bunch of climbing gyms throughout the area but I'd love to explore some outdoor spots in the area

I've climbed at Lincoln Woods once in 2019 but didn't have a guide book (and still don't) so I was just wandering around asking people there for suggestions. Would be nice to have some people to actually meet up with though! I could bring a crashpad or maybe 2 with me on my travels to add to the pile.

Mike Gagnon · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 85

Pawtuckaway might be in that time frame, great spot. Exeter boulders are cool too

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Plenty at Farley and other near by areas (Hidden Valley, Hideaway, etc.)--all within that range from Worcester. A bit closer, there is bouldering at Crow Hill and other nearly locations, also in Ayer. Many other places--a good number listed here on MP.

Mark Berenblum · · Gardiner, NY · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 105

Lincoln Woods is awesome and has lots to explore. i don't know much about other areas, but would say you can't go wrong going back there.

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,175

As Alan said, bouldering is pretty well catalogued here on MP, with the exception of Farley and Great Barrington. Farley and GB have arguably the best bouldering in the region but there's intentionally no beta. It's easy enough to show up with a pad and walk around, you'll find plenty of problems and other climbers. Farley is known for only starting around V5, however.

Apart from what's been recommended above, the North Shore/Gloucester area has a ton of incredible granite erratics on perfect stone and with nobody climbing there. There are a few concentrated areas (Cavalry boulders and Dyke's Pond come to mind) but many are a bit spread out. That's probably my favorite area for the setting and climbing style.

Happy Valley and Hideaway are also fantastic spots tucked away in the woods.

Personally, I never liked Lincoln Woods as much as the spots above.

John Maclean · · north providence, RI · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 55

 Big Red, Your post is quite accurate I don't do any bouldering lately as I reach Medicare age but I sure do remember Lynn woods {north shore} having a lot of good size boulders. I never went to the 

Gloucester area but the route count on MTN project is quite impressive. Lincoln Woods is not nearly as extensive as the North Shore areas but it's popularity is due to the fact that winter conditions  are not as snowy as the Mass. areas and the boulders are closer together. 

JChepes · · West Ossipee, NH · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 9,406

I grew up on the North Shore so very partial to that area.  Lynn Woods and Cape Ann have a plethora of great stuff.  The best thing I find about these places is you can climb here throughout the winter and actually find some great conditions during the coldest months.  I live in the granite state now but am always able to head south when things get ugly up here to climb dry rock most years.

Berkshires are sweet too and found that the happy valley/hideway areas are great with a bit of a woodsy feel still.  Looks like central MA is holding some stuff new/old so may be worth checking out if you weren't up for driving far.  Regardless there is plenty of great stuff within 90 minutes of your location for sure with Lincoln woods being the furthest south and warmest usually.

Read Januskiewiecz · · Taos, NM · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 385

From Worcester. Lincoln Woods, PWay, are the best bets though no matter what you are looking for. Farley and Milford (if you can get a tour its a lot easier) are great too but a little harder to navigate and/or you need to be climbing hard enough to really have a good time. Other than Farley all of the info on here is great for all of those areas. Most other areas are local spots that aren't really worth the time unless your close or really hyped on something in particular. I bet with nice weather you'll run into others for sure in the main areas for more beta or to share some spots and pads.

JChepes · · West Ossipee, NH · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 9,406
  • Read you left us for New Mexico! Do you miss New England yet!? How’s the weather/climbing down there? My wife and I go to Phoenix every winter for a few weeks of rocks and already looking forward to that desert sun! We got snow up here for the time being you’re missing out;)
Read Januskiewiecz · · Taos, NM · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 385

Ha Ha. Its always a struggle always something to miss one way or the other. Our weather has been good, though my wife and I are up in northern NM so still getting chilly and we have snow but its nice to go hang out in the sun at lower elevations. Climbing has been good miss those fall conditions back east but as that week has passed I'm back to enjoying dry conditions and plenty of sun ha ha. Spent some time in spring down in AZ this year and had a good time. 

Nick Budka · · Adirondacks · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 187

Driving a bit further gets you to the rez at great barrington, info on how to find it is available online. 

JChepes · · West Ossipee, NH · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 9,406
Read Januskiewiecz wrote:

Ha Ha. Its always a struggle always something to miss one way or the other. Our weather has been good, though my wife and I are up in northern NM so still getting chilly and we have snow but its nice to go hang out in the sun at lower elevations. Climbing has been good miss those fall conditions back east but as that week has passed I'm back to enjoying dry conditions and plenty of sun ha ha. Spent some time in spring down in AZ this year and had a good time. 

Read I will PM you for some New Mexico beta as we may head over this winter to check stuff out! Prescott, AZ and Tuscon were good also if you haven't been.

Sorry for the thread drift and hope the OP got out Saturday!  Sunday is a bit rugged!!!  More new stuff it appears in the Berkshires going down.  Love and miss the happy valley for sure and spent my college days at the Zoo!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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