Petzl connect adjust rated strength?

I'm finding it difficult to figure out what the rated strength of the Connect Adjust is, the info doesn't seem to be on the device, in the attached directions, or on the Petzl website. Any thoughts on this?

Hello,

The original Connect Adjust used Petzl's 9.5mm Ariel rope. Dynamic ropes tend not have published static ratings as they are irrelevant for climbing purposes. Any certified single dynamic climbing rope in good condition will hold a factor 2 fall, never mind a climber hanging at a belay.

Personally I make my own lanyards from dynamic rope as it is much cheaper. 

Thank you

Fishy Boi wrote:

Hello,

The original Connect Adjust used Petzl's 9.5mm Ariel rope. Dynamic ropes tend not have published static ratings as they are irrelevant for climbing purposes. Any certified single dynamic climbing rope in good condition will hold a factor 2 fall, never mind a climber hanging at a belay.

Personally I make my own lanyards from dynamic rope as it is much cheaper. 

Thank you

Wouldn't the strength of the adjustment cam/buckle thingy play a role? 

My main concern is whether it's rated for me to then lead belay off my harness once I'm clipped to the anchor with the Connect, versus further backup being recommended. 

Hello,

A reputable company like Petzl would have tested the cam extensively before selling it. The dynamic rope and slippage through the cam in a high fall factor scenario would also limit the forces.

In the case of lead belaying there are 2 scenarios:

1. Clip the anchor for the first piece, in which case the lanyard sees minimal loading in a fall off the belay.
2. Do not clip the anchor and factor 2 fall off the belay. In this case all the tube and smart/pivot style devices will slip quite a bit, limiting forces on the belay. Even a grigri will slip at a certain point. 

Just clip the anchor. Unless you are building sketchy gear anchors, there isn't much reason not to clip the anchor. In which case the point is moot.

Thank you

Fishy Boi wrote:

Hello,

A reputable company like Petzl would have tested the cam extensively before selling it. The dynamic rope and slippage through the cam in a high fall factor scenario would also limit the forces.

In the case of lead belaying there are 2 scenarios:

1. Clip the anchor for the first piece, in which case the lanyard sees minimal loading in a fall off the belay.
2. Do not clip the anchor and factor 2 fall off the belay. In this case all the tube and smart/pivot style devices will slip quite a bit, limiting forces on the belay. Even a grigri will slip at a certain point. 

Just clip the anchor. Unless you are building sketchy gear anchors, there isn't much reason not to clip the anchor. In which case the point is moot.

Thank you

I do believe all of that...I just like to see the data :) 

Hello,

Just ask Petzl.

Or make your own lanyard. The data for homemade lanyard tests have been available online for many years.

Thank you

Optimistic wrote:

I'm finding it difficult to figure out what the rated strength of the Connect Adjust is, the info doesn't seem to be on the device, in the attached directions, or on the Petzl website. Any thoughts on this?

Petzl states, the lanyard complies with UIAA 109, so it must be rated to withstand 15 kN.
https://theuiaa.org/documents/safety-standards/109_UIAA%20Belay_LanyardV8_2021.pdf

I don´t understand you worry about belaying from the harness when attached with it. What kind of forces do you think you can see from that?

Wictor Dahlström wrote:

I don´t understand you worry about belaying from the harness when attached with it. What kind of forces do you think you can see from that?

Not worried, just curious. I like to know the capabilities of my gear...don't you? 

Although for example, a while back there was a little flurry of folks using sewn daisy chains as PAS's, unaware (although I think they were properly labeled) that they were designed for body weight only. So I guess I would be "worried" if something like that was a part of my lead belay system at an anchor. 

As has been noted above, and confirmed by Petzl in an email, the UIAA 109 standard (worth reading, it's quite harsh actually, includes 3 factor 2 drops with 80kg) is more than enough (probably at least double) to be part of a belay anchor. I just wanted to know why Petzl isn't just writing "18kN" (or whatever their result was) on the thing like they do with carabiners, slings, pulleys, etc. 

If/when Petzl replies, I'll let you know here. 

I have both a Petzl dual connect adjust and an evolv adjust and feel that I understand what I can and cannot do with them. Perhaps you should know that Petzl clearly states that you cannot use the connect adjust above a FF1 situation. I would however not fear for my life if I stepped slightly above the anchor with one. 

So what Petzl said is that UIAA-certified belay lanyards need (among other things) to have a static breaking strength of at least 15kN, and that because the UIAA 109 standard does not tell them to put the rated breaking strength on there, they don't, they just say they meet the standard. 

Apparently the UIAA DOES tell them to put more strength information on some other types of gear (like carabiners) so they do.