Which Offset Cams to buy in 2022?

Who is making the best offset cams in 2022? Which sizes are the most useful? Anyone using Z4 offsets? How would you rate them?

Obv a different but similar cam, I’ve really enjoyed having a mix of X4 offsets and totems on the funky pin scars, they serve different purposes in my mind and having a diversity of gear doesn’t hurt. Ideally, I think a double rack of BD offsets and replacing the equivalent sized standard cams with singles in black, blue, and yellow totems sets you up really well.

I would pick totems and mastercam offsets.

In Yosemite the scars I’ve mostly run into are medium to small. In Zion they tended to be a little bigger. All the offset sizes are useful. I find the Blue/yellow mastercam most used. I have the .1/.2 BD X4 and it is my second most used.

I have a mix of mastercam, X4, and Z4 offsets.

But I still use the double rack of totems 80% of the time. The triple size is usually a Z4 and or the offsets. 

I love my totems, but also have some Z4 offsets. Have taken multiple small falls on my .3/.4 Z4 offset and its held up just fine.

aliens are rad, and bite like cujo

It's a bummer that Totem Basics got discontinued. The Totem Basic Offsets are sweet. Basically just a better quality Offset Alien. 

For the Nose, we ended up following Sloan's suggestion on the rack, but frankensteined the brands.  You could get away with only having the smallest offsets (Aliens in our case) and go 2-lobe Totem placements in some sections, but I liked having the finger sized offsets to feel more warm and fuzzy.  We used them in the splitters as well, so they're not just specific for the pin scar sections.

BD Z4 0, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.75 (3x)
BD Z4 O/S 0.3/0.4, 0.4/0.5, 0.5/0.75
Totem Black (2x), Yellow, Purple, Green, Red
Alien Revo O/S 1/3-3/8, 3/8-1/2
BD U/L 1 (3x), 2 (3x), 3 (3x), 4 (2x)

Used all of it.  No nuts.  2x narrow cam hook, 1x BD #1 pecker (both not necessary, but helpful if wanting to aid fast)

At least triples in Totem black through yellow.  Totems are a workhorse cam and will work where many don't, even off sets.  There are those rare placements where a true off set works where a Totem won't but those are pretty rare.  

Totems are my preference in flaring granite pinscars, but I bring and use mastercams and Aliens as well. Aliens have more flexible stems and mastercams don't have that annoying metal tab holding the wires, gives them advantages in particular placements.

Confusing that you want to ignore three of the most informed opinions.

Also, it’s pretty clear that these very successful aid climbers differing opinions show that there are many good options out there, all of which lead to success on the wall.

If there was some big change in 2022 to one specific line to rule them all, those guys you mentioned would have already let the masses know. 

I have no desire to ignore those guys, I've learned from each of them and I value their opinions. 

I just didn't want to get roasted for not doing the research, and I'm hoping to hear from an array people about what they choose, how use it, and what they are happy with.

Do you think Hudon (who supposedly has never used any offset besides metolius) runs out and buys an entire new set of Zero friends or Z4's when they are released? 

Dragonfly's, Zero friends, and Z4's are pretty new. Totem basics are off the table. Things change, new threads are created.

Does anybody know the head width of the z4 vs mastercams?

Scott D wrote:

Do you think Hudon (who has never used any offset besides metolius) runs out and buys an entire new set of Zero friends or Z4's when they are released? 

Hudon I am sure has used other off sets besides Metolius, even though Totems aren't off sets I know he uses them to and appreciates them.   I kinda take what Mark says with a grain of salt regarding Metolius, I know he was if not sponsored at least getting some gear from them and would probably feel a slight obligation to talk them up.  Metolius is a great brand and make great off sets but I still stand by my opinion that Totems work better "most" of the time.  I have mentioned it before but one of the flaws with true off sets is the fact that there are right and left off sets and in order to really optimize your rack you need at least a few of each.   Totems are great because if it doesn't work one way you can just flip it around and try it the other way, you can't do that with off sets.

Scott D wrote:

Do you think Hudon (who supposedly has never used any offset besides metolius) runs out and buys an entire new set of Zero friends or Z4's when they are released? 

This is essentially true. I don’t have significant experience with offsets other than the Metolius (and I’m not such a gear weenie that I need the latest and (supposedly) greatest). I want my tools to work and the Metolius cams work for me.

Metolius does give me gear. Just to be up front about it.

I did go head over heels for the Totems at the beginning and stopped using the Metolius offsets. After a few falls where a Totem pulled in a perfect Metolius Offset flare I went back to them.

It’s a tool. Choose a tool that you like, learn it’s advantage and disadvantage and climb accordingly.

In my whole career I’ve never failed on a route because of my gear. 

All fair points. I don't have any offset cams yet, so I'm exploring my options. Metolius Ultralight Offset Master Cams are at the front of the pack, but all of the modern offsets seem pretty good so I may end up just buying whatever is economical. I'll cop to being a gear weenie, I do like having the latest and greatest. I got my start mountaineering in the wet PacNW. A few early bouts of hypothermia made me very willing to shift my kit as needed. That said, I don't think gear has ever been the thing that caused me to fail. I'm still happily using the C4's I bought 20 years ago. I have no intention of replacing them anytime soon, they work for me.

I added Totems and offset nuts to my rack about 2.5 years ago and both immediately became staples. I'm curious if offset cams do the same for free climbing, or if they will just be for aid.

Side note: Metolius is a great company and I like supporting them. I used to live in Bend, OR and I've been to their HQ there a few times. I wanted to buy a few bolt hangers to teach some friends a few concepts and techniques. They gave me 4 bolt hangers and refused to take any money. They even gave me some hex 2nds. Great folks that care about their employees and the climbing community. 

I have rarely ever felt the need for an offset cam while free climbing. Totems are something I would recommend doubles of before owning any offset cams. 

I’m a pretty big weenie and did the nose with a set of X4 offsets and a set of totems. (In terms of offset cams.) 

We never left the blue and black totem as pro. We were usually hanging off one or the other. That felt sufficient, but if I’d had a second blue and black totem I would have used them. 100%. 

No reason the offsets can't help with being free climbing pro, though obviously they help for those of us who aid stuff that Connor Herson would be floating through.

Glad your head is in the right place as far as how to buy... def just keep your eyes out and grab gear as it comes up for a decent price. I've had everything except dragonfly offsets and held onto X4's, Z4's, OG MC's, and UL MC's (let go of the WC zero offsets and Totem Basics - wouldn't mind still having the totem basics but they're pricey now and I sold them before I started aiding a couple years ago). fwiw, I can't really see a strong justification for buying more than the smallest three sizes. You can make a decent contention that you only need the smallest two sizes, as larger than that gets into black/blue totem territory, so it becomes mostly moot. 

I really don’t think totems are a replacement for a true offset pod / pin scar.

I made 2 placements on the last aid route with a red/black (.5/.75) mastercam that the green totem was not fulfilling.

I agree the smaller sizes are more useful (particularly in Yosemite), but when the big ones get needed..then.. I don’t know what else I would do.

I’m already 6’2” so I can reach a long ways. 

Rarely, rarely have I ever felt the NEED for offsets while free climbing.
About the only pitch I can think of is the 5th pitch on Freeblast. 

X4 offsets are amazing, durable, and a great compliment to totems. i find them extremely useful in quartzite and granitic rocks. Having an arsenal of cams to choose from when figuring out gear for a head point has changed the game for me, no longer do i settle for a totem thats aight, if an offset looks and feels better, I will 100% use it. 

When onsighting multipitch climbs, i will usually bring my offsets racked on one biner, together they weight as much as a #2 c4 and I several times i have been thankful to have them for piece of mind. I’m no pro, and I don’t want to die or get hurt because I didn’t bring up a couple more OZs