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Master Point Carabiners for TR Anchor

Original Post
Matthew Persson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 65

Working on building my first TR quad anchor and deliberating about what carabiners to use. I’ve gotten down to the CAMP Photon Screw gates or DMM Phantom Screw gates for the bolts(not totally necessary to have Screw gates but gives some peace of mind) and then two DMM Phantom HMS for the rope end of the anchor.

The DMM Phantoms evidently have a great fit for many different sizes according to this blog:

https://blog.weighmyrack.com/the-best-locking-carabiners-for-anchors-in-hangers-and-chains/

Both the Photons and Phantoms are highly rated by Outdoor Gear Lab as well.

Any insights or firsthand experience with these setups? Or other recommendations for the master point carabiners? The Edelrid Bullet Proof HMS also seem like a fairly obvious but more expensive choice. 

Max Houck · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 6

I would say it makes absolutely no difference what biners you use for the rope to pass through as long as they are locking. Having two identical shape/size also makes for a cleaner setup. The bulletproof biners are also nice if you're going to be toproping/guiding a ton on them.

For the biners that go through the chains, having smaller ones is generally better as they're going to be easier to fit through the bolt hangers/chain links. Some anchor setups don't leave a ton of room for bigger carabiners to sit properly in them.

Mr Pizza · · Marion, IL · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 0

I use two of the metolius steel autolockers. About $12-14 bucks and not too heavy. 

sandrock · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 200

Steel or the Edelrid Bulletproof lockers

Jay Anderson · · Cupertino, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Bulletproofs for rope side.

Austin Shaver · · Louisville, KY · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 1

There's also the triple steel ovals straight out of the amga single pitch manual. Especially good for light climbers but probably the heaviest option.

J C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 477
Austin Shaver wrote: There's also the triple steel ovals straight out of the amga single pitch manual. Especially good for light climbers but probably the heaviest option.

lol not even close in mass to two steel lockers, even the "not that heavy" Metolius, which are 221 g each

Austin Shaver · · Louisville, KY · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 1

Climb tech's steel ovals are 164 grams which would put three of them almost 50 grams heavier than two Metolius carabiners. But they are cheaper at $6 and will probably put the last amount of wear on a rope.

J C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 477

My bad, I didn't realize you were doing steel ovals. Was imagining aluminum ovals like the photo shows.

Mark White · · White Rock, NM · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 35

A side note, I chose two HMS carabiners for the master point but one as screw gate and the other as an auto locker. This allows for ease if leading up to set up top rope for others or if a member wants to lead after top roping a number of times. If you set them opposite each other and leave the screw gate unlocked if leading then it's a great blend. 

If you do this just be sure to pick two of approximately the same size so that it doesn't end with the smaller one taking all the load. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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