Intermediate Climbing Shoes

Hey all!

I’ve been climbing for about 7 months now and looking for a new pair of shoes. I started with a cheap used pair of Black Diamond Momentums which I have enjoyed but they’re near the end of their life. I’ve climbed outdoors a handful of times and I want to get outside more, especially in the spring, but it’s mostly indoors for me. A good mix of bouldering and sport climbing and I climb at the V4/5 and 5.10-11 range. I’m looking for a more intermediate/moderate shoe and wanted some insight.

Based on some research the Scarpa Instinct VS/VSR, Scarpa Veloce, Scarpa Vapor (V), La Sportiva Kubo, and La Sportiva Katana look like some good options. Wondering if anyone has experience with these or other recommendations?

Thanks! 

All seem like good options. Evolv Geshido also a good option for a shoe with moderate downturn

Conor Daly wrote:

Hey all!

I’ve been climbing for about 7 months now and looking for a new pair of shoes. I started with a cheap used pair of Black Diamond Momentums which I have enjoyed but they’re near the end of their life. I’ve climbed outdoors a handful of times and I want to get outside more, especially in the spring, but it’s mostly indoors for me. A good mix of bouldering and sport climbing and I climb at the V4/5 and 5.10-11 range. I’m looking for a more intermediate/moderate shoe and wanted some insight.

Based on some research the Scarpa Instinct VS/VSR, Scarpa Veloce, Scarpa Vapor (V), La Sportiva Kubo, and La Sportiva Katana look like some good options. Wondering if anyone has experience with these or other recommendations?

Thanks! 

I currently own pairs of Veloce, Kubo, and Katana. Moderately wide forefoot, narrow-ish heel, high arches, second toe same or ever so slightly longer than big toe, stubby pinky toe. I generally like my toes to be squeezed but fairly straight and comfortable, so I avoid aggressive downturns and shoes that crunch my feet into hooves. Climb about the same range as you.

Veloce are great for the gym, but very soft and I doubt they'd last long outside. I love the basic fit of the shoe, but find the slingshot rand to be too aggressive and shoves my foot too far forward, creating space in the heel (I cut the rand to alleviate this, made them 100% better IMO). Otherwise pretty much perfect for what I want in a gym shoe. They stretch a fair bit.

Not a huge fan of the Kubo, I like the fit but the velcro straps are kind of clunky and something about the combination of shape/stiffness/rubber made my feet just slide off everything. Been sitting in the gear bin for a while now.

Katana is my go-to shoe for general outdoor climbing. Work great in the gym too, but expensive to be grinding down on sandpaper walls and plastic. A little stiffer than some of the others, so depending how you like to climb that may or may not be better for you.