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Tenaya climbing shoes? Or other recs

Original Post
Mike Gagnon · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 85

I’m in search of a new pair of softer shoes for steeps and bouldering. I don’t love the solutions fit on my feet which seem to be the gold standard. Been using the scarpa drago lv and like but don’t love them. I like the looks of tenayas shoes and wonder which models people like or dislike? How is their rubber in comparison to vibram grip? Open to Other recommendations, how are the testarossa? Or theory?

Of course I can just trial and error but shoes are expensive.

Appreciate it

Andrew Jackson · · Greensboro, NC · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 7

I recently pick up a pair of Mastia's, they fit my wider toe box well. They are the most comfortable climbing shoe I've worn that still performs well. A lot of people have pain issues with the aggressive heel rand design on Sportiva's. I've worn Muira's since they came out, but that heel rand presses hard where the Achilles attaches to the heel causing sharp pain. If you find the right Tenaya for your foot design, I think you'll be happy with them.

From what I understand, the owner was a cobbler for Boreal back in the 80's and 90's creating the top selling climbing shoes of that time, Firé Cats and Aces. 

Prav C · · Arvada, CO · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 124

The fit of Tenaya shoes varies a lot depending on the last. Mastias are very comfortable, but Mundakas are unbearably narrow for me in the same size. 

A lot of their shoes use XS Grip 1 which is in between XS Edge and Grip 2 in hardness. I've only resoled one pair of Tenaya Mastias, and my local resoler (Rock and Resole) doesn't carry the Grip 1 rubber they use. They resoled them with Grip 2 which worked out fine, but they do climb a bit different now.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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