Bolted TR @ Acadia?

Any bolted TR routes at Acadia that can be accessed with a walk to the top/bottom?  I don't build gear anchors and I'll be with a new climber, but would love to climb at a seaside crag if one does exist.

There are lots of bolted anchors at otter cliffs, if you're set on seaside. I'd say the best climbing is not there but at Precipice wall, but the seacliffs are a cool experience. 

The anchors are set back from the edge, and with tide youll either need to lower your climber in or both rappell in. Doing the former takes some know-how many beginners don't have, and you should make sure you know how to do it before going (sending a climber down using a gri-gri, having it elevated off the ground, etc.)

Doing the latter means ideally having your anchor master point extended over the lip to not shred your rope, which makes rappelling in awkward. And generally I think it can't be done at high tide, but I could be mistaken. 

What my response amounts to is: yes there are bolted anchors but the more important questions for safely TRing seaside at Acadia have more to do with your competence. I don't usually post big responses like this just to explain random scenarios, but I've personally fixed people's anchors there who didn't know these details, and I think it's an easy thing for a beginner to overlook.

take TAKE wrote:

There are lots of bolted anchors at otter cliffs, if you're set on seaside. I'd say the best climbing is not there but at Precipice wall, but the seacliffs are a cool experience. 

The anchors are set back from the edge, and with tide youll either need to lower your climber in or both rappell in. Doing the former takes some know-how many beginners don't have, and you should make sure you know how to do it before going (sending a climber down using a gri-gri, having it elevated off the ground, etc.)

Doing the latter means ideally having your anchor master point extended over the lip to not shred your rope, which makes rappelling in awkward. And generally I think it can't be done at high tide, but I could be mistaken. 

What my response amounts to is: yes there are bolted anchors but the more important questions for safely TRing seaside at Acadia have more to do with your competence. I don't usually post big responses like this just to explain random scenarios, but I've personally fixed people's anchors there who didn't know these details, and I think it's an easy thing for a beginner to overlook.

Well aware of my limits, which is why I ask.  Thanks for the info.

Following up on what Daniel wrote. There are only a few fixed anchors at Otter--a mix of large rings and staples, all located on the far left side as you look out to sea from the top. Depending on how you set up the ropes, roughly a dozen routes can be belayed off those anchors, most of them are on the more difficult side, but there are a couple of classic easier ones as well. The routes in that section are usually accessible (with a--mostly--dry base) even at high tide, if the sea isn't too rough.

Additionally, Otter is very popular, so on nice days it is often possible to meet friendly folks with ropes already set up, who may be willing to share ropes and belays (obviously the guides will be there and catering to their clients, but there are usually independent climbers  as well)--though it is now getting a bit late in the season.

Daniel's comments on set ups, lowering and rappelling are all right on point.

Looking at the MP route guide, it seems like 'In The Groove' at otter might fit the bill....low tides around 3 pm this weekend.  

I checked out precipice, but that seemed to be mostly (all) trad?  

Yes, "In the Groove" is one of the "easier classics" that I was referring to--a bit awkward but fun.

If you are comfortable leading 5.5, then there are several short routes on the Central Slabs section of The Precipice with bolted anchors. They aren't "seaside" but you are still overlooking the ocean and the granite is superb.

Lion Forest wrote:

Well aware of my limits, which is why I ask.  Thanks for the info.

I was reading too fast - you'll be with a new climber. My mistake! 

For Otter Cliff, there are staples and eyebolts for many of the climbs from "Wonder Wall - right" and going climber's right to "Peak Performance". I posted photos of some anchors in the route descriptions.  IIRC, you can build a threaded anchor above "Overhanging Corner" and about 20' back -  but beware of the sharp edge.

I recommend lowering the climber or rappelling and then belaying from the top instead of a slingshot bottom belay like you see in your gym. No sense in having everybody at the bottom of a climb you may not be able to complete. The anchors are far enough away from the edge so that the rappeller can get a "running start" and feel comfortable. You may want to redirect the rope off the anchor so the belayer can sit close to the edge and watch. Or tie in tight and belay off your harness.

DON'T use the trees for anchors.

A couple of the very few fixed anchors at Otter Cliffs:

The far more typical Otter Cliffs anchor:

A mid-June Wednesday around 10:30am

Objective hazard near the approach:

During low tide, are the base of climbs at otters cliff accessible by an unprotected trail or rock scrambling?

Lion Forest wrote:

During low tide, are the base of climbs at otters cliff accessible by an unprotected trail or rock scrambling?

Just about everybody raps or lowers.  Possibly you could scramble down at the extreme south (climber's right) end of the cliff.  But depending on tides/waves it can be hard to go very far along the bottom. It's generally better to go straight down (rap or lower) to the base of what you want to climb).

Eric Engberg wrote:

Just about everybody raps or lowers.  Possibly you could scramble down at the extreme south (climber's right) end of the cliff.  But depending on tides/waves it can be hard to go very far along the bottom. It's generally better to go straight down (rap or lower) to the base of what you want to climb).

Gotcha.  Are guides hauling out clients who can't complete a route?  We'll be there for foliage, so I'll scope it out, but sounding like too much business without another experienced set of eyes.  Might be stopping at Red Rocks on the way home.  

Not really. There is a low tide scramble route on the far right side (when looking out to sea from the top) but it is not easy, fairly exposed too the sea, and often slippery---I had a friend who inadvertently 'went swimming' from it on one occasion and I have avoided it since--and that occurred in May, with relatively warm temps--I would not want to risk such a swim at this time of year. Pretty much everyone lowers or raps in at Otter. There are (3?) routes on a short buttress with a plaque on it above the top area of the main part of Otter that is totally 'dry', but you need to be able to build anchors to set up belays for that piece of rock.

Usually the guides get their clients up--one way or another--I have never heard of any being left behind. But your point is a very good one, Otter can be very intimidating for someone with very limited experience (or even for someone more experienced but not confident)--being lowered in, no 'easy escape' option, the cliff is steep--even the easier routes are close to vertical. and the sea close behind and constantly in motion (and often loud) all can add up. Still the cliff is short and the easier routes easy enough that, unless the climber totally 'freezes', it is usually possible to get someone back up. My suggestion is to go there prepared to climb, scope it out, see if others are there and how your partner feels--and then decide. It is a beautiful place, so very much worth the short walk and scramble down in any circumstance--there are often as many tourists there as climbers.

Hire a guide!!  its totally worth it to gain some new knowledge and have a badass experience.  Climbing in Acadia is really terrific and if you are going this time of year, you may be able to link up the otter cliffs and a jaunt up fun house for a half day whereas typically it's quite busy all around the park.  

E C wrote:

Hire a guide!!  its totally worth it to gain some new knowledge and have a badass experience.  Climbing in Acadia is really terrific and if you are going this time of year, you may be able to link up the otter cliffs and a jaunt up fun house for a half day whereas typically it's quite busy all around the park.  

Maybe fun for some, but I'm not hiring for a top rope.  Decided to forgo climbing as I was with a beginner and we hiked the precipice trail instead.  However, I saw way too much rock to not go back.  South Bubble looked like a lot of potential fun.