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Glen Denny
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just heard from my good friend Linda of the passing of Glen Denny. We had seen him last year at the Tioga Pass entrance parking getting ready to do a hike he hadn't done before... had a very good conversation with him, as usual, and off he went. https://www.climbing.com/people/glen-denny-yosemite-pioneer-climber-golden-age-died/ Glen and his wife talking to Rick Sylvester, Chris Jones to the right, in the Ahwahnee Hotel for the 2008 observance of the 50th anniversary of the Nose first ascent.  |
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RIP |
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One time in the Valley was talking to Bruce ,the director of the Yosemite Mountaineering School, when Glen Denny walked by and all the guides got excited . RIP |
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Glen Denny climbing timeline 1939.02 born in Modesto, CA - first child of Max Elbert Denny (high school teacher, born Washington) and Julianne Ralston (born Kentucky) 1958.09 dropped out of college and went to Yosemite to learn how to climb after reading about climbers on El Capitan; met and climbed with Warren Harding; worked at Lodge; later bartender at Ahwahnee Hotel 1959.07 Washington Column - East Face (later Astroman) - FA: Warren Harding, Glen Denny, Chuck Pratt 1959.09 Mt. Conness - SW Face (Yosemite) - FA: Warren Harding, Herb Swedlund, Glen Denny 1960.04 Via Aqua - FA: Dave Rearick, Herb Swedlund, Glen Denny 1960.07 Keeler Needle - East Face (Mt. Whitney) - FA: Warren Harding, Glen Denny, Rob McKnight, Desert Frank Gronberg 1961 El Cap Tree Direct - FA: Glen Denny, Frank Sacherer 1961.04 Nevada Flake - Right Side - FA: Glen Denny, Charles Fisher 1961.07 Koko Ledge - Right - FA: Glen Denny, Jim Posten 1961.09 Himmelgeisterhorn, Ottohorn, Frenzelspitz, Pickets (Washington) - FA: Ed Cooper, Glen Denny, Joan Firey, Joe Firey, George Whitmore 1961.09 Pinnacle Peak - West Ridge, Pickets - FA: Ed Cooper, Glen Denny 1961.09 Cascade Peak - North Face (Washington) - FA: Ed Cooper, Glen Denny, George Whitmore 1961.10 Leaning Tower - West Face - FA: Warren Harding, Glen Denny, Al Macdonald, George Whitmore, Les Wilson 1961.10 The Fin - FA: Les Wilson, Glen Denny 1961.10 Black Wall - FA: Glen Denny, Al Macdonald 1961.10 Serenity Crack - FA: Glen Denny, Les Wilson 1962.07 The Rostrum - Regular North Face - FA: Glen Denny, Warren Harding 1962.08 Koko Ledge - Continuation - FA: Glen Denny, Frank Sacherer 1962.11 Dihedral Wall - FA: Ed Cooper, Jim Baldwin, Glen Denny 1963 Captain Hook - Right - FA: Glen Denny, Eric Beck, Dave Cook 1963.03 Rixon's Pinnacle - Direct South Face - FA: Glen Denny, Gary Colliver 1963.04 Pterodactyl Terrace - Right - FA: Glen Denny, Eric Beck 1963.05 The Nose - third ascent - Layton Kor, Steve Roper, Glen Denny (3.5 days) 1963.06 Sentinel Rock - Kor-Denny - FA: Layton Kor, Glen Denny 1963.09 Shadow Wall - FA: Glen Denny, Roger Derryberry 1963.10 North America Wall - recons to 600' - Royal Robbins, Glen Denny 1964 North America Wall - recon - Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Glen Denny 1964.07 Jirishanca Norte (Peru) - FA: Glen Denny, Gary Colliver, Leif-Norman Patterson, Les Wilson 1965.09 returned to school at San Francisco State, studied photography and film 1966.11 "Nyala" (film) on climber soloing Cathedral Peak 1968.05 "El Capitan" (film) shot with Fred Padula 1968.10 In radio contact with Harding and Rowell when they are rescued from Half Dome - South Face 1969.05 The Prow - FA: Royal Robbins, Glen Denny 1969.11 Glen gave up on El Capitan film (commercialization concerns) - eventually finished by Fred Padula in 1978 1970 Koh-i-Marchech, West Ridge, Shkurigal Valley, Hindu Kush (Afghanistan) - filmed the climb 1970s "Ascent" (editor) 1970.05 Condor Conduit var. (Pinnacles) - FA: Glen Denny, Ellen Fry 1973.12 North Finger - North Face - FA: Gary Colliver, Glen Denny 1974.02 Condor North right var. - FA: Gary Colliver, Glen Denny 1974.03 Ambush cutoff - FA: Gary Colliver, Glen Denny 1974.04 Machete Direct - FA: (first 3/4 pitches) Gary Colliver, Glen Denny 1974.05 Desperado Chute-Out direct finish var. - FA: Gary Colliver, Glen Denny 1974? Daedalus - FA: Gary Colliver, Glen Denny 1974? Icarus - FA: Gary Colliver, Glen Denny 1974? Condor Crags - South Ridge - FA: Gary Colliver, Glen Denny 1982 married Margaret 1990s worked at Stanford library system 2000 "The Stanford Alpine Club: Featuring the Photography of Tom Frost, Henry Kendall, and Leigh Ortenburger" (photo editor) 2007 "Yosemite in the Sixties" 2009 "Royal Robbins - To Be Brave - My Life - vol. 1" (editor) 2016 "Valley Walls: A Memoir of Climbing and Living in Yosemite" 2022.10 passed away in Ceres, CA - age 83 http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP40/40-elcap Michael Ybarra's 2012 article on "El Capitan" movie http://glendenny.com/ website with 1960s Yosemite photos I had fun meeting Glen twice. First while rebolting at Pinnacles (Condor Crags) with Bruce Hildenbrand. Glen walked by on the trail and Bruce recognized him. The second time, I met him at his office at Stanford, around 2007. He gave me topos of Daedalus and Icarus, his previously unpublished routes at Pinnacles. We had wondered for a long time who did those routes. I remember he had a set of AAJs on his desk. Glen was tall and walked very fast when we went to the stacks for some reason. A cool guy! |
Clint Cummins wrote: Ty for this! |
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His reputation is as iconic as the photos he left behind. |
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Thanks for this. I’ve always loved his photos and respected his climbs. His memory will continue to live. |
