Beginner w/minimal experience wanting to start top rope
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For context, I have climbed in gyms as a kid, and when I was in highschool I took a 30 day mountaineering course in the Rockies that was focused on backpacking, but also went over rappelling and using a prusik on an anchored rope to aid in climbing steep but not vertical terrain. I am now 25 and haven't been back to the mountains because of distance. However, there is a lot of cliff climbing and bouldering near me in Shawnee National Forest. I have always wanted to get in to climbing, but the two things holding me back were my parents telling me I would die, and the cost of entry was too high as a broke college student. I now have a good job and have began getting the basics, shoes, harness, helmet, Grigri. But I have still not found anyone who can teach me. For the last month, I have been watching realiable safety videos, reading, and practicing what I can, mainly tying knots. I am now confident I could set up a reliable top rope anchor safely. So to my real issue, my hope is that I show up to climb and there are 20 other people some of which may be willing to take a newbie. However, if I do have to do it myself, I was planning on taking my girlfriend, setting up an anchor, and practicing belaying by climbing 10 feet then lowering and repeating until we are comfortable and confident that we are doing it safely. I have all my rope and other gear picked out, and I'm planning on scouting a few spots this weekend before ordering so that I know if I will need anything special for the area. The closest certification courses are over 3 hours away, and I believe there is only 1 climbing gym over an hour away, and I didn't see any type of training advertised. I know nobody can say for certain "you'll be fine", but I'm really curious how many people are self taught, and if that is an acceptable thing in the climbing community. A little extra info, I am not going to lead climb. I will only set a rope if I can hike to the top. And while at the top I am going to set up a backup anchor to a tree while I set the top rope anchor. Plus the highest climb around here is 80ft, but the routes I'm going to scout are only 40-60ft. Does this all sound like the proper way for a beginner to start? Am I missing anything important? Is this a bad idea? |
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What's your gut tell you? |
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Cherokee Nunes wrote: That as long as I'm careful and take my time, I will be fine. Though, I'm sure others thought the same thing, but ended up being wrong. It just feels odd doing something that's considered realativley extreme compared to other sports without an expert to check everything I'm doing. |
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Plenty of folks have started with much less experience or consideration. |
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A lot of people climb at Jackson Falls in Shawnee National Forest, I have met a few people who would go there solo and just join a group, I think you would be surprised at the amount of people willing to let you top rope off of their gear as long as you're polite, safety conscious, and psyched. I would recommend you learn to lead belay and get the safety checks down pat beforehand. I think I am taking some beginner friends for an introduction to outdoor climbing at Jackson during the last weekend of October, I see no problems with you tagging along if our personalities mesh well. (nothing beats a certified course with professional instructions) |
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Warren, this is pretty much how I started. If you've legitimately done you're research and you trust your systems, then start using them. As you said, small steps first. Break your comfort zone limit in small incremental steps. Regarding a mentor, generally you having the stoke and zeal for it makes it so much more enjoyable for the mentor to see you really want it and are willing to learn and are a fun person. Be willing and just as stoked to give back to them in the form of a belay and friendship. Ask lots of questions and go back home to do follow up research when you encounter something you don't understand. Good luck! |
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I would try and hop in with people, observe, ask questions, and then try and replicate those things at home. Practicing your anchors on the ground, dialing in your system, and understanding the nuances with each situation. Are these anchors your building using bolts? Or natural features (rock, trees)? |
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There's a good chance that other people are stupid, so it's not necessarily better to learn from others. Based on your post, I'd say you seem more competent than average. Climbing is about engaging with risk (risk comes in many varieties) at some level, and taking a class or hiring a guide (don't do that, waste of money for anyone wanting to learn) doesn't remove the risk. So better off to be honest with yourself from the get go. |
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Why don’t you contact Eric Ulner? He runs Vertical Heartland climbing school not far from you. His property is draper’s bluff, not 10 minutes from Cedar Bluff. I did this in June of 2020, and I don’t believe he has a lot of clients anymore, but he was very responsive to phone calls. 618-694-3534. |
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Just dropped in. Thank you for the advice |
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Just dropped in. Thank you for the advice |
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My 8-year-old said he wanted to rock climb this year. I took him up and we did a lesson at the gym in STL. Now, we go out to Ferne Clyffe or Giant City and I set up top ropes. My wife climbs too and belays me. We just use an ATC. I did my first lead climbing and belaying at Giant City last week. It's fun! Some of the places like Ferne Clyffe the good trees are 15-30 feet back from the edge. (No bolts of any kind at Ferne) Not a lot of climbing goes on there, so the top of the bluff is heavy with bushes and vegetation in spots. A few of the anchors at shelter 1 bluff at giant city are accessible where you can stand on a ledge and set your rope up. Most of the other ones you would need to rappel off the edge to set top rope, but most of those routes are over 5.10. And you aren't allowed to use the trees on top anymore, but there are some bolts on the top about 15 feet back in one or two spots. |
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Your girl belaying you is a good idea. YouTube videos are good...I like Joshua perry (beta climber). I started like you but solo. You can find good top rope solo videos and set up with a camp lift and micro traxion as backup. You need to use redundancy as much as possible since you won't have help. Find some small rocks 20-30 ft and practice "falling" and climbing with the rope and devices. Go slow and practice several grades below your skill level. Good luck! |
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Jared Hesselbein wrote: I've been watching tons of YouTube videos. I found BetaClimbers pretty fast. He's got some helpful videos and does a good job at explaining what NOT to do, plus he's just super entertaining. Since I made this post, I have put together a nice starting rack for top roping. My gf and I have been practicing in trees in our back yard. It was funny to see parents doubting me at first, then have complete confidence in me after watching my gf lower me 20ft out of a tree. I appreciate all the positivity and support from this forum. My goal is to eventually become experienced enough to be able to give advice and help others in the sport. If weather is good, this weekend we are making our way to some real rock for the first time with gear. We went a few weeks ago and met some climbers and watched. What a great community |
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W J wrote: You're on the right track |
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I will be at Ferne Clyffe this Saturday, probably starting mid-morning until 4 or 5PM. Top roping (since that's all they have except maybe a couple trad routes) |