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Home Climbing wall 10x10 vs 8x12

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L K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 77

Anybody have any experience climbing on a 10x10 training board (i.e kilter homewall) vs 8x12 board (i.e tension/moon/grasshopper/decoy board)?  I am just curious what pros/cons you might have found with the sizing of each or which size you prefer and why.

Nordic Gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

Are you building a spray wall or a moon/equivalent board?

Phil Sakievich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 131

If you have the room for it then I think 12’ is the optimal height for a home climbing wall. It’s essentially an extra vertical move vs 1-2 more horizontal moves. I used to have a full sized adjustable moonboard and a couple of 12’ tall crack machines. Doing lapse was more fun than on a shorter board  I prefer moving up than more traversing  

That said the higher the wall the more padding and the more potential for tweaking something when you fall off. In my new place I opted for the moonboard mini (one of the smallest “boards”) due to space constraints and it is doing the job just fine. But I do miss the opportunity to do bigger moves and/or more vertical moves. More exciting IMO. 

Zachary Winters · · Winthrop, WA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 435

8x12 uses 3 full sheets of plywood without cutting or wasting expensive materials.

Daniel Cowan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 241
Zachary Winters wrote:

8x12 uses 3 full sheets of plywood without cutting or wasting expensive materials.

+1 for not cutting sheets of plywood. saves you from needing a skil saw or a table saw

L K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 77

Thank you for the input!  That definitely settles the question for me.

To answer the first question > moon/equivalent board.

Nordic Gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

I'd go for a full moonboard then. Easy to build and the holds themselves are, while not cheap, more affordable than eg. Kilter ones. Also you won't need the leds, so thats a cost saving measure as well.

Danny Radomski · · St. Louis · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 5

Moonboard sets are significantly cheaper than Kilter, Tension, or Grasshopper. There's a new Tension Board being announced this week, so see what that is. 8 feet wide is definitely simpler since it's 1 or 2 sheets of plywood with no cutting. Moonboard also has the largest pool of problems currently

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285

If you can fit an 8x12 or a 10x12 why don’t you just build a 10x12? If you can make this work you could have a system wall like moonboard or tension board and room for other climbs or campus rungs (if it butts up against a wall). I’m assuming there is a reason you can do 10x12 though and vote for 8x12. 

mbb · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

Yes, go for 10x12 if you can.  Build the biggest wall that fits.  The cost of an extra sheet or two of plywood is very small compared to the overall cost of a wall.  I never understood the argument to make a wall only with whole sheets.  Seems very shortsighted.  

Regarding saws, I used a $20 hand saw for all the cuts when building my home wall, including 8' long cuts on plywood.  No big deal.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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