Home Climbing wall 10x10 vs 8x12
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Anybody have any experience climbing on a 10x10 training board (i.e kilter homewall) vs 8x12 board (i.e tension/moon/grasshopper/decoy board)? I am just curious what pros/cons you might have found with the sizing of each or which size you prefer and why. |
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Are you building a spray wall or a moon/equivalent board? |
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If you have the room for it then I think 12’ is the optimal height for a home climbing wall. It’s essentially an extra vertical move vs 1-2 more horizontal moves. I used to have a full sized adjustable moonboard and a couple of 12’ tall crack machines. Doing lapse was more fun than on a shorter board I prefer moving up than more traversing That said the higher the wall the more padding and the more potential for tweaking something when you fall off. In my new place I opted for the moonboard mini (one of the smallest “boards”) due to space constraints and it is doing the job just fine. But I do miss the opportunity to do bigger moves and/or more vertical moves. More exciting IMO. |
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8x12 uses 3 full sheets of plywood without cutting or wasting expensive materials. |
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Zachary Winters wrote: +1 for not cutting sheets of plywood. saves you from needing a skil saw or a table saw |
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Thank you for the input! That definitely settles the question for me. To answer the first question > moon/equivalent board. |
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I'd go for a full moonboard then. Easy to build and the holds themselves are, while not cheap, more affordable than eg. Kilter ones. Also you won't need the leds, so thats a cost saving measure as well. |
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Moonboard sets are significantly cheaper than Kilter, Tension, or Grasshopper. There's a new Tension Board being announced this week, so see what that is. 8 feet wide is definitely simpler since it's 1 or 2 sheets of plywood with no cutting. Moonboard also has the largest pool of problems currently |
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If you can fit an 8x12 or a 10x12 why don’t you just build a 10x12? If you can make this work you could have a system wall like moonboard or tension board and room for other climbs or campus rungs (if it butts up against a wall). I’m assuming there is a reason you can do 10x12 though and vote for 8x12. |
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Yes, go for 10x12 if you can. Build the biggest wall that fits. The cost of an extra sheet or two of plywood is very small compared to the overall cost of a wall. I never understood the argument to make a wall only with whole sheets. Seems very shortsighted. Regarding saws, I used a $20 hand saw for all the cuts when building my home wall, including 8' long cuts on plywood. No big deal. |