Rock/Ice Climbing with Jumar
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Alright Ya'all here's a technical climbing question... As some of you might know, Ama Dablam in the Himalayas is climbed entirely with a jumar on fixed rope. Is there any way to connect jumar to chest harness (as you would when toprope soloing with microtraxion) in order to free up hands (and not worry about hoisting up jumar with every move)? I would imagine the 5.8 sections of this climb would be even more exhilarating if both hands were free to touch rock but still have the jumar closely in tow as backup. |
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It's questionable to use only 1 device for TR solo, but I've always connected the jumar to the belay loop as shown in https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Setting-up-a-self-belay-system-on-two-ropes-with-two-ascenders - the key is to use the top hole. I don't know anything about Ama Dablam or how well such a connection would work there. |
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I think the issue is that with fixed lines over alpine terrain like that they are not necessarily taught and you have to pull the jumar up and around obstacles occasionally. |
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I Fwrote: Yep. I agree this would be the issue. How could I get the jumar taught enough on a fixed line for it to follow me up without drag but loose enough so that I'm not glued to rope? Perhaps it's a pipe dream. Solo or Jumar... that's what it comes down to. |
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Gary Wagmanwrote: Petzl connect adjust might work. Seems faffy though |
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From Petzl instruction manual with the ascender I bought (this is years old; I don't know if they've changed anything): A different illustration in the same pampglet shows the lower hole in the ascender attached to the belay loop of the harness, and a simple cord/elastic loop through the upper hole to hold the unit upright. Of course both these require that the ascender has upper holes. The original jumars didn't. |
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Gunkiemikewrote: Definitely worth a try. I like the idea of elastic chord vs static - this would likely be a chest harness configuration of some sort. |




