Mountain Project Logo

Rock/Ice Climbing with Jumar

Original Post
Gary Wagman · · West Linn, OR · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

Alright Ya'all here's a technical climbing question...

As some of you might know, Ama Dablam in the Himalayas is climbed entirely with a jumar on fixed rope. 

Is there any way to connect jumar to chest harness (as you would when toprope soloing with microtraxion) in order to free up hands (and not worry about hoisting up jumar with every move)? I would imagine the 5.8 sections of this climb would be even more exhilarating if both hands were free to touch rock but still have the jumar closely in tow as backup. 

Serge S · · Seattle, WA · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 683

It's questionable to use only 1 device for TR solo, but I've always connected the jumar to the belay loop as shown in https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Setting-up-a-self-belay-system-on-two-ropes-with-two-ascenders - the key is to use the top hole. I don't know anything about Ama Dablam or how well such a connection would work there.

Connecting it to the chest harness instead would probably work, but I think most people who use a chest harness in TR solo use it to keep the device higher on the rope rather than for load bearing. Besides it being uncomfortable to have all your weight on the chest harness, I imagine a jumar connected that high could hit you in the face.

I F · · Curled up under damp leaves… · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 4,363

I think the issue is that with fixed lines over alpine terrain like that they are not necessarily taught and you have to pull the jumar up and around obstacles occasionally. 

Gary Wagman · · West Linn, OR · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0
I Fwrote:

I think the issue is that with fixed lines over alpine terrain like that they are not necessarily taught and you have to pull the jumar up and around obstacles occasionally. 

Yep. I agree this would be the issue. How could I get the jumar taught enough on a fixed line for it to follow me up without drag but loose enough so that I'm not glued to rope? Perhaps it's a pipe dream. Solo or Jumar... that's what it comes down to.

I F · · Curled up under damp leaves… · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 4,363
Gary Wagmanwrote:

Yep. I agree this would be the issue. How could I get the jumar taught enough on a fixed line for it to follow me up without drag but loose enough so that I'm not glued to rope? Perhaps it's a pipe dream. Solo or Jumar... that's what it comes down to.

Petzl connect adjust might work. Seems faffy though

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,732

From Petzl instruction manual with the ascender I bought (this is years old; I don't know if they've changed anything):

A different illustration in the same pampglet shows the lower hole in the ascender attached to the belay loop of the harness, and a simple cord/elastic loop through the upper hole to hold the unit upright.  Of course both these require that the ascender has upper holes. The original jumars didn't.

Gary Wagman · · West Linn, OR · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0
Gunkiemikewrote:

From Petzl instruction manual with the ascender I bought (this is years old; I don't know if they've changed anything):

A different illustration in the same pampglet shows the lower hole in the ascender attached to the belay loop of the harness, and a simple cord/elastic loop through the upper hole to hold the unit upright.  Of course both these require that the ascender has upper holes. The original jumars didn't.

Definitely worth a try. I like the idea of elastic chord vs static - this would likely be a chest harness configuration of some sort.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "Rock/Ice Climbing with Jumar"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.