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Dry tooling practice

Original Post
Jack Walter · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

I’ve been looking at getting into some mixed routes, I’ve got some ice climbing experience and plenty of rock climbing. My question is, can you practice dry tooling on sport routes? Before heading into the mountains I’d like to get more comfortable on tools. I know it depends in the type of rock etc, just looking for some solid advice.

Anyone know of some places in the Cascades or general sea-tac area that are walk up? or have a good top rope anchor?

jacob m s · · Provo, Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 135

Sadly the general answer is no. The tools can damage holds pretty easily and you don't want to that guy.

But you may be able to set a top rope with a redirect to a line next to some sport route where the rock is climbable with tools but not on an established route. But if you go this way you could be risking a confrontation, and you have to be disciplined enough to keep off the sport route. 

Jack Walter · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

Yeah that's what I was afraid of. Most of the ice climbing mixed routes I've done were anchored at the top, I wasn't planning on going to any big sport climbing spots to practice. 

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 448

There is an area near you that has been developed specifically for drytooling, and can be toproped or lead.  It's at Exit 38:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/120086752/dry-tooling-ice-climbing-at-exit-38

Jack Walter · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

Thanks, I’ve heard about exit 38 for rock climbing but never made it out there. Much appreciated.

Nicholas Hernandez · · West Milford, NJ · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 297

Drytooling at a sport crag is a bad idea, even if you go with the best intention of avoiding any established routes you are going to have a confrontation by someone simply because the assumption is that it hasn't been established with a sport route yet. Lucky enough for you though there is actually a pretty established drytooling crag & community in the Seattle area!

I would highly recommend checking out the Seattle Mixed Climbing FB group - https://www.facebook.com/groups/2446968488954489

Great crew of folks, they help maintain the Wayne's World drytooling crag and are actually running a community event there on Oct. 30th that you should totally check out!

You also have The Barn which is a small dedicated drytooling gym located in Seattle as well - https://barn.ticketspice.com/book

Hope this helps ya a bit! If you ever have any questions totally feel free to hit me up! Nick@Furnace-Industries.com

Jack Walter · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

Thanks I’ll definitely check it out

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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