Learning trad in the Midwest

I am super eager to learn how to trad climb but I'm not sure what the best way to start is.

One method I am considering is to take some classes from guides at Devil's lake. The specific classes I was looking at are Anchors II, Anchors III, and Lead climbing. Description of these classes are at the bottom of this very long post.

Another method might be to find a mentor/partner or learn on my own but after reading through similar topics on MP forums I'm worried about finding someone willing/experienced enough would be difficult and that if I learned by myself that I would not get the critical feedback on placements that someone experienced could give.

The following are a few items that I think are worth mentioning:

I live in the lower peninsula of Michigan but am not bothered driving for a weekend of climbing.

I took a sport lead class at my gym and have 3 months worth of experience belaying lead and lead up to 5.9 consistently.

I can TR almost all 5.10 climbs but not all on the first try and routes with slopers still stump me.

(I mentioned the last 2 items just to see if perhaps I should focus on getting more gym experience or if I should work on climbing harder grades)

I took a TR anchor class at my gym and have done 4 days of TR outdoor climbing.

I jumped the gun and already bought a starter trad rack.

I have read "Rock Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition: A Comprehensive Guide" and "Climbing: From Gym to Crag" (both published by Mountaineers Books).

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

( devilslakeclimbingguides.co…)
( devilslakeclimbingguides.co…)

Drive to Devil's Lake WI and sample the many many easy well protected Trad routes.  The place is flush with them.  Try harder trad routes by method of mock lead on TR.  An excellent safe way to learn the craft.

When you have no trad experience I'm not sure there are any easy trad leads at Devil's Lake. My first trad lead ever was Boy Scout and I think it would've been safer as a solo because I screwed myself with rope drag. Mock leads on TR at any grade is the way to go IMO.

You didn't jump the gun by getting a starter rack. Learn the criteria for ideal placements for the gear you bought.  
Practice and evaluate placements safely on the ground or as mentioned on your mock leads.
Hiring professionals can fast track your knowledge and is a great plan.
Finding a great mentor that you click with is invaluable.
Best to you on your quest in learning trad!

Here is a good list of easy protectable leads for beginners at Devil's Lake (https://www.devilslakeclimbingguides.com/blog/12-easy-lead-routes-devils-lake-state-park). There are also some underrated beginner traditional leads at Necedah (e.g. Mr/Mrs Canoehead). 

Your plan looks solid. Learning to build high-quality tradition anchors at the Lake will be a great introduction to gear placement. 

I wouldn't stress climbing harder grades, as you mention in your post. As noted in other replies: hit the easy stuff first and mock lead (lead climb as you usually would but with a TR as backup) lots of climbs to get into the flow. Best of luck! 

Red River Gorge is also a good alternative. You need to find a few people who want to get outdoor mileage with you. You don't have to climb harder to get started - there are loads of beautiful and fun trad climbs in the world in the 5.6-5.7 range. You just won't find them packed shoulder to shoulder like in a gym or at a sport crag.

From someone else who grew up in the lower pen of Michigan, I would also recommend the red. Not a horrible drive. Or check out Canada! Bruce Penn has a lot, and Lions Head is also a cool area. Maybe some cracks over there. 

Hey Daniel, 

If you're interested in taking a course at the Red, Bluegrass Climbing School offers a great anchor building and trad leading course, we'd be happy to set you on right course and show you all the hidden trad gems around the area. Send me a private message if you want more info. 

Erik