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Scarpa instinct vsr Vs the new instinct s

Original Post
Kevin Gorham · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 45

I currently own two pairs of the scarpa instinct sr's and love them they are my main shoe. I am on third resole of each and they are about at thier life's end. I have la sprotiva theory's as a try hard in the gym or sandstone, or when I need a hard heel hook that my resoled slippers can't hold anymore. The instinct vs, and boostic as my more edging shoes.  I was thinking of either switching to the new instinct s or the vsr.  I am looking for my daily driver kind of a shoe. 

How do the instinct s's compare to the sr? And the vsr?  How does the s and the vsr compare to each other? Which one would you recommend getting next?

M Fazio · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 11

Posting to follow, interested in people’s opinions on this. Recent convert to the instinct line, swooped a nearly blown out pair of vs that fit my feet really well, been enjoying using them for single pitch trad and occasional sport climbing 

ShuShu Y · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Kevin Gorham wrote:

I currently own two pairs of the scarpa instinct sr's and love them they are my main shoe. I am on third resole of each and they are about at thier life's end. I have la sprotiva theory's as a try hard in the gym or sandstone, or when I need a hard heel hook that my resoled slippers can't hold anymore. The instinct vs, and boostic as my more edging shoes.  I was thinking of either switching to the new instinct s or the vsr.  I am looking for my daily driver kind of a shoe. 

How do the instinct s's compare to the sr? And the vsr?  How does the s and the vsr compare to each other? Which one would you recommend getting next?

Just think the new Scarpa Instinct S as a Drago Slipper with very small heel.

druss uk · · UK · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Instinct S is stiffer than Drago and also slightly narrower in the toe box than the rest of the Instinct family.  I found the Instinct S more powerful in the toe than VS and VSR on the board, but it could be subjective.

Some reviews

RockRun review

UKClimbing review video

Prav C · · Arvada, CO · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 124

Big Instinct fan here, I wear the VS (orange) for outdoor sport climbing and bouldering, and VSR (blue) for indoor climbing. I use the S for some outdoor bouldering, and for board climbing. It is definitely narrower in the toe box than the VS/VSR which gives it more toe power & precision as the poster above mentions. I have a notoriously hard to fit shallow heel, and the heel actually stays on great for the most part, despite being a slipper. The heel feels a tad narrower than the VS/VSR. If I was doing a heel hook that could “shear” off the shoe, I’d go for VS/VSR instead, but for most heel hooks it’s totally fine.

If you want an all around shoe with XS Grip 2 I’d get the VSRs, but the S are a nice addition to the quiver.

Pete S · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 223

About a week into new instinct lace with XS Edge.  Love them. Side note, they run a bit small.  Instinct lace 45s are ever so slightly larger than my vapor v 44s.  

Jared Angle · · Arlington, VA · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 5

I’m using the Instinct VS and the Booster right now for bouldering and steep lead. For me, the Instinct is perfect for heel hooks and toe hooks, and does okay with smearing. The Booster has a floppy heel so my heel hooks don’t feel as secure, but the aggressive toe is amazing for keeping tension in roofs and steep overhangs.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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