Loose ligaments in wrist and a sprained wrist
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Hello friends! lets gets straight into it so some backstory... ive always been able to pop my wrist out of place on a whim. My doctor told me i have loose ligaments in my wrist but he didnt state whether it was bad or good. I was wondering if anyone else has loose ligaments in their wrist and climbs too. Im curious about the precautions you would need to take or if you even need to take any. now about my injury... my left hand injury is actually quite funny... i played mercy with the 11th best arm wrestler in the world and was too stubborn to stop he kept cranking and I kept on being stupid. I sprained my left wrist doing that but its now doing fine. My right hand I injured bouldering where I did a dyno to a hold and i caught it with my right hand. my wrist popped out of place, and now my wrist is sprained. Now i normally would just let this be but its taking a long time to heal. its now been 2 months and I am worried not only about my sprain but also that its sprained and has loose ligaments. anyway, im anxious to get back on the wall as i have a competition in a month. anyone have any tips or experience rehabing a sprained wrist? i dont want this to hold me back and i sure as heck want to be climbing again Thanks guys! |
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My situation is a bit different, so take with a grain of salt. I hyper extended my left wrist pretty bad after catching edge snowboarding, and for about 4 months I couldn't bend it back like I used to, bench press, or do push ups without pain, but all other motions and usage was fine, so I didn't think much of it. I had xrays done, but no fractures and no signs of dislocation, but I still couldn't bare weight pushing out. My girlfriend tells her chiropractor, and the chiropractor shows her specifically how to adjust the wrist. So she does the warm up routine and then the adjustment, a slight pop (subtle like a knuckle popping) was heard and felt, and all of a sudden I started to regain full flexibility and I could bare weight without pain. I had to ease back into weights, cause I lost strength not using those muscles during that season. Climbing of all things helped, it is as if stretching out the center area of the wrist/hand with all the little bones is adding to the progress. So it seemed more or less the bones in the hand that are close to the wrist is were the problem was in my case, but it boiled down to an adjustment. |
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Search for wrist stability exercises, there are a lot of climbing specific articles about the options -- I like wrist curls and plate pinches. One of my wrists has a tendency to pop, primarily on slopers or other open-handed grips (I've never had it pop on crimps). I think in my case it is because I had a ganglion cyst in that particular wrist and after it was drained it left some additional space/stretch in the wrist. I had a lot of problems with it when I first started climbing but a few weeks of dedicated strengthening exercises for the wrist extensors/stabilizers helped get it into a healthier state and it has improved greatly over time. It rarely pops now, generally only if I neglect to do a proper warmup/hop onto something that requires significant weighting of an open handed grip. |
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Marlene S wrote: |
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An ortho said my joints are loose. Once I reached 57/58 I started having a lot of wrist strains/sprains on both sides that take weeks or months to heal. Hanging from a hold and then rotating under it or carrying/maneuvering something heavy and awkward and having it rotate my wrist too far both cause it. I also get a slightly different but equally painful injury from pulling hard on ropes – which I was doing on a boat until I started using the winches more and a jumar when a winch isn't practical. I have been experimenting with putting braces on before I start anything, but they don't really prevent the rotation under large loads and they get in the way climbing. I just started doing the exercises in the videos that Emile Modesitt posted in 2020. I suspect that my wrist problems started up because I was lifting as often as before and staying just as strong with the big muscles but climbing a lot less and therefore not doing the kinds of movement that works those stabilizing muscles. |