Best rope for TRS?

What are you folks using for a TRS rope? 

I run a single strand setup w the Taz Lov2, chest harness and a backup.

My current rope's a bit furry, long and dynamic for this application. 

Thinking of buying a 40m length of 10.5mm static. 

Is 40m too long/short?

The specs on the Lov2 say 10-11mm for static rope. Anyone tested the feed on those diameters? 

I get a lot of use out of my 40 m rope. I don't think I'd buy static for TRS, but that said I also wouldn't choose a single Taz Lov as my belay device either an you need to consider the whole system.

I always use my old 9.8 ropes that are too worn/stiff/beat up to LRS on anymore.

J C wrote:

I get a lot of use out of my 40 m rope. I don't think I'd buy static for TRS, but that said I also wouldn't choose a single Taz Lov as my belay device either an you need to consider the whole system.

I always use my old 9.8 ropes that are too worn/stiff/beat up to LRS on anymore.

Thanks, why not static and why not the Lov2? Works great imo. 

Sterling WorkPro 10mm x 46M.  Polyester sheath is tough for cut resistance and wear from gear.  My setup is Lov2 and Microtrax.  Single strand so 150' is plenty long enough.  I also use it as an extra anchor static - it is nice and long.

You are going to hear a lot of different opinions on this topic.  

None of them are wrong.  

None of them are right.

The only thing I will say is this: if you ever find yourself climbing above the master point, don't use static rope.  Other than that, the choice of rope really doesn't matter.

I have a 10.5mm semi static. It's the ideal TRS rope IMO. Feeds beautifully with everything, including the Taz Lov. I don't use it much anymore as I'm usually also doing LRS these days if I'm up to TRS, but I got a loooot of TRS pitches on it.

fuzzy muzzle wrote:

Thanks, why not static and why not the Lov2? Works great imo. 

I haven't yet used the taz, but in my experience devices without toothed cams are more likely to not catch in weird/specific scenarios, and devices without pulleys don't feed as well as those with pulleys. I also don't use chest/neck loops, and I don't own any ropes that are technically compatible with the taz. If you highly value descending then reascending, like working a crux section, I could see the taz being nice. It is on my list to try for LRS.

More generally, as someone posted above, a static line locks you out of LRS. Sometimes I go out knowing I'll only TRS for the day, but at some crags being able to LRS even something easy can get you to the top of other routes, even if the main goal is TRS.

40 M 10.5 static is perfection IMO.

fuzzy muzzle wrote:

Is 40m too long/short?

It seems to me like this would depend on what you're climbing.

I'd probably want at least a 5m margin of error, so I'd consider 40m adequate for a 35m route if you're using a single-strand setup, or a 17.5m route if you're using a double-strand setup.

What I'd do is look up some climbs in the areas you plan to TRS, and find out how tall they are.

David K wrote:

"It seems to me like this would depend on what you're climbing.

I'd probably want at least a 5m margin of error, so I'd consider 40m adequate for a 35m route if you're using a single-strand setup, or a 17.5m route if you're using a double-strand setup.

What I'd do is look up some climbs in the areas you plan to TRS, and find out how tall they are."

Yep, that part is more of a local question but so far 40 seems adequate. 

Now trying to find a 40m 10.5mm static or semi static is a bit of a snag. Neither is super common. 

Any tips? 

Found these:

BackcountryGear has a good selection of static rope by the foot if you just want a 40m length:  

https://www.backcountrygear.com/climbing/ropes-cordage/static-rope/?sort=priceasc 

If you want a longer length, I’d recommend getting access to expertvoice. I’m not sure what discounts AAC membership gets access to, but mammut offers some very sweet deals and I really like their performance static for TRS.

With expertvoice I got a good deal on a static black diamond 10mm rope. Feeds nicely through my two microtraxions, rappels fine on grigri too.

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/10-0-static-rope-65m/

Rope length will depend on crag height, plus whatever you need for access, re-balys, rappelling in, etc.. I'd say, whatever your local crags require + 10m extra. 

With the Taz Lov, I don't like the feed while using anything thicker than a 9,8mm rope. But if the rope is weighted accordingly, you can get away with thicker. Do remember though, that you will being using a backup device, maybe a Traxion? It will have its own requirements too regarding thickness.

Re., static vs dynamic: in my experience a typical TRS outing will involve not only climbing but also rigging anchors, perhaps some (unavoidable?) LRS and maybe some (light) traversing? I will only do those things with a dynamic rope. I just use my old dynamic ropes. Oftentimes I've be joined by others at the crag or they have joined me, that only works if someone has a dynamic rope. If money is not an issue then a dedicated skinny light rap line will allow you to carry a shorter climbing rope.

There are two types of climbing ropes: dynamic and static. Semi-static is just a term used by some because some static ropes are indeed less static/more dynamic. I'm not sure from what percentage upwards a static rope could be considered semi-static?

Noel Z wrote:

Rope length will depend on crag height, plus whatever you need for access, re-balys, rappelling in. I'd say, whatever your local crags require + 10m extra. 

With the Taz Lov, I don't like the feed while using anything thicker than a 9,8mm rope. But if the rope is weighted accordingly, you can get away with thicker. Do remember though, that you will being using a backup, maybe a Traxion? It will have its own requirements too.

Re., static vs dynamic: in my experience a typical TRS outing will involve not only climbing but also rigging anchors, perhaps some (unavoidable?) LRS and maybe some (light) traversing? I will only do those things with a dynamic rope. Never a static rope anymore. I just use old dynamic ropes. Oftentimes I joined others at the crag or they have joined me. If money is not an issue then a dedicated skinny light rap line will allow you to carry a shorter climbing rope.

There are two types of climbing ropes: dynamic and static. Semi-static is just a term used by some because some static ropes are less static. I'm not sure from what percentage upwards a static rope could be considered semi-static?

The critical advantage of a static rope for TRS is that it doesn’t saw up and down across a crystal/edge/etc, and rope pro remains in place. Dynamic ropes stretch enough even just under body weight that the rope can stretch a couple meters midway up the route, so protecting the rope can be challenging. With a static, I can just attach a 2’ x 2’ scrap of carpet to the rope with a friction hitch and I’m good.

One tool I like to use with a static is anchoring it to natural pro far enough back from the cliff that I can safely traverse between bolted anchors and set up rebelays for each route.

fuzzy muzzle wrote:

What are you folks using for a TRS rope? 

I run a single strand setup w the Taz Lov2, chest harness and a backup.

My current rope's a bit furry, long and dynamic for this application. 

Thinking of buying a 40m length of 10.5mm static. 

Is 40m too long/short?

The specs on the Lov2 say 10-11mm for static rope. Anyone tested the feed on those diameters? 

Buy a gym rope, they are partway between standard static and dynamic. I bought a roll and made custom lengths, have led and whipped on them too.

Noel Z wrote:

Rope length will depend on crag height, plus whatever you need for access, re-balys, rappelling in, etc.. I'd say, whatever your local crags require + 10m extra. 

With the Taz Lov, I don't like the feed while using anything thicker than a 9,8mm rope. But if the rope is weighted accordingly, you can get away with thicker. Do remember though, that you will being using a backup device, maybe a Traxion? It will have its own requirements too regarding thickness.

Re., static vs dynamic: in my experience a typical TRS outing will involve not only climbing but also rigging anchors, perhaps some (unavoidable?) LRS and maybe some (light) traversing? I will only do those things with a dynamic rope. I just use my old dynamic ropes. Oftentimes I've be joined by others at the crag or they have joined me, that only works if someone has a dynamic rope. If money is not an issue then a dedicated skinny light rap line will allow you to carry a shorter climbing rope.

There are two types of climbing ropes: dynamic and static. Semi-static is just a term used by some because some static ropes are indeed less static/more dynamic. I'm not sure from what percentage upwards a static rope could be considered semi-static?

GWE uAscend currently. It's solid, smooth, light and goes from 8-12mm. I have a micro trax and a rollnlock but didn't care for either when i tried them.

Eli W wrote:

The critical advantage of a static rope for TRS is that it doesn’t saw up and down across a crystal/edge/etc, and rope pro remains in place. Dynamic ropes stretch enough even just under body weight that the rope can stretch a couple meters midway up the route, so protecting the rope can be challenging. With a static, I can just attach a 2’ x 2’ scrap of carpet to the rope with a friction hitch and I’m good.

One tool I like to use with a static is anchoring it to natural pro far enough back from the cliff that I can safely traverse between bolted anchors and set up rebelays for each route.

I just did that exact thing at Mt Erie here. Tree down to the anchors...but then i bailed on that spot because the routes looked too steep for me. Total gumby. 

Eli W wrote:

BackcountryGear has a good selection of static rope by the foot if you just want a 40m length:  

https://www.backcountrygear.com/climbing/ropes-cordage/static-rope/?sort=priceasc 

If you want a longer length, I’d recommend getting access to expertvoice. I’m not sure what discounts AAC membership gets access to, but mammut offers some very sweet deals and I really like their performance static for TRS.

This was where i ended up buying. 40m 10.1mm semi static by the foot. I think it was Sterling. Thanks for the link. 

I use a 60m Petzl Club which is longer than I need, but maybe I'll get into canyoning 

Bunny ears at the anchor with a microtrax on one side and a grigri on the other