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Bivy sacks that climbers care about?
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I'm having a hard time figuring out who makes bivy sacks that climbers care about. I know OR and BD still make the old, venerable models. Who else makes bivys that would conceivably be carried up and over a route? I'm thinking routes in the cascades where a tent can't be left behind and collected during the descent, but camping on a glacier is a real possibility. |
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For a lightweight fair weather option (more of a wind proof sack rather than replacing the weather resistance of a tent) I’m happy with the sol escape bivy. |
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I like the Event Soul Bivy from Mountain Laurel Designs. A little spendy but robust and only 12oz. They also have a lighter 10oz model. |
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I've used the BD hooped bivy (the one without the tie-in point, I got it as part of their clearance sale when they discontinued it) and I love it, but the big wall bivy is $400. So I asked the question because my main partner is looking into getting one for our continued ambitions. |
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I never got, and still dont get, the idea for a bivy sack ... In bad wx a tent is better, and two real bivy is about same weight as a tent. So why go with a bivy? In good wx you dont need anything ... In the snow you can dig a cave I think the only application is on a ledge where you cant set up a proper tent, but why be on a ledge with wx you need a tent, or bivy? Understand unexpected wx may catch you, but that really small niche does not appear to be what people use them for ... Can anyone sell me on why a bivy is better than a tent or nothing ... TLDR, i dont care about any bivy, but am a little curious ... Cheers |
Dave Schultz wrote: Sometimes weight and space savings matter, even if they're just a few pounds and liters. Racing mountain bikes across the country, the idea of a tent was really out of the question. Just the time I didn't set up/tear down added up substantially over many days. Extreme case I know - they're not for everyone. It's also nice to bring a small bivy on the off chance you're going to get stuck overnight somewhere, rather than nothing. Chance I'd bring a tent for that job is 0. Honestly, the only time I've slept outside in a tent in the last decade was in Alaska, and that was to be thoroughly prepared for the mosquitos. Other than that, it's been in a ~9 ounce bivy. If nothing else, a bivy adds juuuuuust a little extra heat retention, and keeps your sleeping bag cleaner. Nice to sleep under the stars. I had a bivy just this year at 13,000' on a ridgeline that could have gone real sideways had I not brought it. Since it was water resistant, I was relatively dry, rather than soaking weight (not super comfortable, but I made it out alive). I had also brought a tarp that was set up; the tarp was ripped to shreds. Lots of summit bivys. A really special one was during the last lunar eclipse. I summited, and hung out watching the moon do its thing. There was just enough room to make a bivy - not enough for a tent, and going without a bivy would mean a ripped up sleeping bag from all the talus. In the morning, the sun came up, while the full moon was still out. Not another person in sight. AAAAAAAAAAAH! |
Dave Schultz wrote: From my experience with my bivy, it basically came down to the "fast" part of fast and light. It was also very advantageous to be able to seek out the best spot for me to sleep in, and allow my partner to do the same without having to compromise on something that fit us both. Finally, and this may be uniquely true of my bivy sack, but it was 4-season protection, in an ultra-light tent weight. That was very nice to have when I needed it. |
Dallin Carey wrote: A similar idea but won't break the piggy bank, I use a Sierra Designs Backcountry Bivy. https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/camping-and-hiking/bivy-sack/sierra-designs-backcountry-bivy |
Dave Schultz wrote: Some reasonable points, many of which I agree with. I have used a bivy sac more times than not on solo trips. Other times, it has been for that niche when weather rolled in and tent was not practical. We all glad to have one. Though my partner really wished his did not roll off the top of Edith Cavell, his night was a wee bit nippy. In good weather I will often still take a bivy sac because one may be on damp, sandy, dirty ground. I would rather the sac get dirty rather than my pad or sleeping bags. And carrying a ground cloth is similar weight. For the OP. I have used the hoop style bivy for 30 years. The hoop stays home as the opening will stay open well enough in most cases. Having that small amount of overlap is nice in inclement weather as one can let air in but not the elements. The soul bivy with the side zip looks interesting. However, not sure about relying on a water proof zipper. |
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Ireally like the OR Helium and almost bought one, but i wish there was some way to store your backpack inside, to protect it from the elements/animals/strangers at night... is that too much/silly? if i could have my backpack inside it with me, i would totally ditch the tent. Does anyone who have the OR Helium knos if you can put anything besides yourself inside? gather some information and saw a LOT of folks complaining about condensation inside and Co2 buildup and possibly suffocation |
aikibujin wrote: I have this one also, but don't like it. For some reason the portion of my sleeping bag that is covered by the yellow fabric always ends up soaked in the morning. I don't know if the fabric is actually different, or it it has something to do with the dye, but regardless of the weather, my bag is always dry, except for the footbox under the yellow fabric. |
Philippe Queiroz wrote: I have an OR Helium and am a fairly sweaty person and haven't had issues with condensation; I believe this is because I use a water bottle to prop the front open if I'm in the rain and only use netting if it's not rainy. |
Dan D wrote: great to know!! thanks man.. i run VERY hot, but i think ill give the helium a try if i find one for good deal.. |
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A bivy sack stops condensation from building up on the outside of your sleeping bag on clear, calm nights. It can also add a few degrees of capability to whatever sleep system you are using by stopping some convection. It will trap moisture from perspiration and possibly respiration based on how you use it. A nice compromise can be a light tarp folded in half to act light a loosely fitted bivy sack. A tarp can be used in other ways to improvise shelter, is lighter and packs smaller than some of the more robust bivy sacks mentioned above. The biggest downside I've found to a sil-nylon tarp is that they are extremely slippery on snow. |
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Its a pain to sew very light fabric, but you can always make your own with silnylon bottom and very breathable DWR coated top fabric like Membrane 10 or 15 from RSBTR. Keeps bugs off, doesn't trap appreciable moisture from your breath, doesn't protect against rain, but does add a small amount of protection for your pad and sleeping quilt or bag. |
Philippe Queiroz wrote: FWIW, I’ve had lots of luck throwing a rain fly on my backpack and strapping it to a tree with lumbar and sternum strap in forested areas or just leaving on the ground otherwise. I think you’re better off with this than trying to get it into your sleep setup. If critters / people are an issue, you can just leave it very close to where you’re sleeping. |
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Unlike many people, I never use a bivy as a "tent substitute" or "emergency shelter," and yet I use them frequently and with great satisfaction. Nearly always a zippered, Tyvek bivy, purchased a few years ago for $19 from China-based company. (Also a nowadays extremely ratty OR "non-waterproof" bivy that's headed for the landfill.) Initially this was for use inside floorless tents in snow or mud, often with substandard (or missing) groundsheets. Now, is partly from re-thinking of a UL premium-type sleeping bag purchase of some years ago. This sleeping bag's overly delicate shell fabric saves about as much weight as the tyvek bivy adds to my kit. But relative to a "full-weight" shell, the tyvek adds far more protection vs dirt, abrasion, snags, moisture & breezes. I use various shelters, many floorless and/or sometimes with dogs, in conjunction with this added prophylactic. One can dispense with a stuff sack and yet be assured sleep gear is always protected from carelessness in any circumstances in camp or closet & etc. Outside of super-cheap Tyvek, "Mountain Laurel Designs" offer the most attractive models (to my eye). They're available in a girth large enough not to retard loft in winter-weight sleeping bags (a typical problem of typical designs). Also certain ML models seem explicitly designed for use as outlined above -- rather than primarily for rain protection. Often one sees written wisdom purporting that a bivy "adds 10 degrees of warmth," or "a little warmth." But... it's same deal as a lightweight down or fleece jacket in a strong wind. You put on a hardshell on top of the jacket: you'll be A LOT warmer. If it's NOT windy and you put on that shell over a down jacket you'll be only a LITTLE BIT warmer. So based on windchill, a bivy bag could sometimes "add" vastly more comfort (much more than "10 degrees") -- and in many other circumstances practically nothing |
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For a lot of bivy applications, especially the "what if" case, a bothy bag is far better. 8oz, both people can fit inside, it's warmer, cheaper, you can melt water or cook if needed. Can you sleep laying down....probably not, but if you're doing an unplanned bivy you're not sleeping anyways! |
