Mountain Project Logo

Improving Strength on Small Edges

Original Post
Chronically Injured · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 25

Does anyone have a protocol that’s worked for them for improving their strength on small edges? I boulder moderately hard but have been noticing a lack of power on edges <15mm(ish). While I’m back at school all I’ll really have access to is a tension block that I can use to pull weight, as well as a wall to actually climb on.

I’m thinking of doing a max hangs (pulls in this case since no hangboard) protocol, but aside from that I’m not really sure where to start. The things I’m wondering about is days/week to aim for, number of reps, rest time between reps, and how to decide on a weight.

I’m feeling pretty stoked on getting stronger, so any beta would be appreciated. Anything from full on advice to just describing what may have worked for you would be awesome! 

J C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 477

Check out Lattice Training on YouTube if you haven't. I remember they did a vid about min/small edge training and edge reduction training, something like that. Hopefully you can find it, because it seems some of their previous videos have disappeared. From what I remember, they outlined a max hang type protocol on small edges, where resistance is progressed over sessions, and a separate protocol, edge reduction training, where the edge size is reduced between workouts. The idea is that they are separate protocols to do at different times of your cycle, not all at once.

Also search on r/climbharder for any fingerboard topics. MP is kinda like using an old school encyclopedia for fingerboard questions. Over on reddit you'll have sports physiologists debating the intricacies of your particular question writing multi paragraph responses.

Also, just an idea-- most doors have molding that is <15 mm deep. In commercial settings/dorm rooms, it's like 8 mm and fairly slippery. If you have access to that it would be the perfect place for max hangs, without a hangboard. If it is metal and too slippery, just add a strip of grip tape (skateboard).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Training Forum
Post a Reply to "Improving Strength on Small Edges"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.