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Stick clip a trad placement: Cam

Original Post
Kevin Maliczak · · Living in Taiwan. From Sout… · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 345

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufkTgYbjD6A

How to place a cam using a stick clip: (Inspired by Karsten Delap's IG & Youtube videos of placing a nut using a stick, and from other posts I've come across of climbers also stick clipping nuts & hexes.) I originally did this as a joke, but it works, so take it for what it is: A way to save your ankles on a trad route's tricky start; a party gag; blasphemy to traditional climbing style, another tool in your toolbox, something that will either get someone hurt or killed and I never I should have posted this, etc. 

I'm using my Kailas Clip Up stick clip; it's able to hold the cam in place well enough. You'll also need about 20ft (6m) of thin cord like paracord*. First I make a clove hitch with the cord looping it through the triggers and thumb-press. (The clove hitch should cross over along the thumb press, this better ensures it holds.) I will pull on the long end, use my teeth to bite down on the loose strand to help tighten the clove hitch, all the while simultaneously pulling down the triggers. (You can now see the clove holding the retracted cam heads.) To make it releasable, take your long end and pass it back through its loop on the clove.  Next put your climbing rope into the cam's carabiner. Then place the cam's stem into the stick clip, (you should find it works better in the outward direction). To insert the cam into the crack, simultaneously pull down on the climbing rope to help keep the cam more stiff inside the stick clip. After you insert your cam where you want, pull your cord; this will release the releasable-clove hitch that was holding the retracted lobes.  

*My preferred method is just using a short 2ft (80cm) piece of cord, with the pull strand tied to the other tail of your climbing rope, and you pull on that instead. 

Disclaimer: This is pretty much an advanced tech tip for trad leaders already experienced with placing gear. Additionally, since you won't be able to examine your placement up close (duh), be sure to weigh/bounce test the placement first before committing to its use. This trick should work with any cam with a thumb loop style; (I have yet to try it with Metolius or DMM's Dragons).

Mark Starr · · Albuquerque · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 135

Weird and creative. I like it. 

Chris C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407

Well, now I’ve seen it all!

Edit: actually, somebody do a tricam 

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Chris C wrote:

Well, now I’ve seen it all!

Edit: actually, somebody do a tricam 

I request a big bro placement.

Pops a beer, reaches for popcorn...

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

good video. i will definitely add this simple trick to my "fraid" climbing technique repertoir. thanks for posting!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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