Mountain Project Logo

Recommendation for quickdraws

Original Post
Lucas korb · · Durango CO · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 0

Hi I'm just starting sport climbing and a bit of multipitch and I have been bouldering for a while. I'm wondering if you have ant recommendations for good sport and occasional multipitch quickdraws.

curvenut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0

IMHO, the best quickdraw .. Petzl Djinn Axess

Good value,  awesome feeling.

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Carabiners-and-quickdraws/DJINN-AXESS

Emilio Sosa · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 46

I like the Hotforge hybrids from BD. I like the action of a solid gate for the bolt-end carabiner, but enjoy the wire gate for the rope end because it has less gate flutter, a touch less resistance when clipping, and weighs that much less. Plus, the hot pink color is sweet 

Ally L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 40

If you’re looking into multipitch I’d also recommend a couple alpine draws- on longer pitches you’ll need to sometimes extend your placements to prevent rope drag.

Trango Phase alpine draws comes in a set of four, but honestly I’ve just bought some Mammut dyneema slings and searched MP for some wiregate biners for a fraction of the price.

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,023

Agreed, the Petzl Djinn Axess quickdraws are a very solid options. No need to look anywhere else. You’ll be exceptionally happy with them.

Backcountry has the 6-pack on sale for $79.95. I recommend buying 2 of them.

https://www.backcountry.com/petzl-djinn-axess-quickdraw-6-pack 

Lucas korb · · Durango CO · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 0
curvenut wrote:

IMHO, the best quickdraw .. Petzl Djinn Axess

Good value,  awesome feeling.

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Carabiners-and-quickdraws/DJINN-AXESS

I have also heard good things about the spirit express quickdraws any opinions on them

Jon Isom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0
Emilio Sosa wrote:

I like the Hotforge hybrids from BD. I like the action of a solid gate for the bolt-end carabiner, but enjoy the wire gate for the rope end because it has less gate flutter, a touch less resistance when clipping, and weighs that much less. Plus, the hot pink color is sweet 

This. Also keylock on the bolt side is sweet and oliunid has them for 11.63 each and a long draw option.

Mark White · · White Rock, NM · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 35

Mammut keylock Wire / Indicator with the wire gates are by far my favorite. Feel better than any other draw I've used so far. 

 https://www.mammut.com/us/en/products/2040-02750-32200/crag-keylock-wire-10-cm-indicator-6-pack-quickdraws

Side question for folks: does mammut just change their colors every few years? It seems the blue and white schema is the only one available nowadays. 

j mo · · n az · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,200

DMM alpha. 

Bryan K · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 652
Lucas korb wrote:

I have also heard good things about the spirit express quickdraws any opinions on them

Spirits are definitely top of the line draws along with the DMM Alphas.  If you're on the fence between the Spirits and the Djinns, the main difference is gonna be price and weight.  Djinns are a good bit cheaper and are also a good bit heavier, which can be a plus or a negative depending on if you want something really burly to stand up to a lot of use or if you want something a bit lighter to double for other uses more frequently.  They're both great draws and I don't think you'll be unhappy with either pick.  

curvenut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0
Bryan K wrote:

Spirits are definitely top of the line draws along with the DMM Alphas.  If you're on the fence between the Spirits and the Djinns, the main difference is gonna be price and weight.  Djinns are a good bit cheaper and are also a good bit heavier, which can be a plus or a negative depending on if you want something really burly to stand up to a lot of use or if you want something a bit lighter to double for other uses more frequently.  They're both great draws and I don't think you'll be unhappy with either pick.  

Totally agree for the spirit, it is  more expensive and a bit lighter.

But about the weight in general, unless you are a top0.5% climber who climb 5.14+ , weight is not the limiting factor, strength is

Kyle D · · Denver · Joined May 2011 · Points: 5

Djinn carabiner is slightly larger than spirit so if you have bigger hands you may prefer the Djinn.  

Kyle D · · Denver · Joined May 2011 · Points: 5

Djinn carabiner is slightly larger than spirit so if you have bigger hands you may prefer the Djinn.  

Climb On · · Everywhere · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0
Lucas korb wrote:

I have also heard good things about the spirit express quickdraws any opinions on them

They're roughly $5 more expensive each than the Djinn.  They're nice but not worth the extra cash in my opinion.

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205
Kyle D wrote:

Djinn carabiner is slightly larger than spirit so if you have bigger hands you may prefer the Djinn.  

Or, the opposite if you have tiny hands. My wife loves Spirits and dislikes Djinns for this reason. 

pat a · · ann arbor, mi · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

I've got a mix of Djinns and Spirits.  The spirits are a tad nicer, but it's not like you'll climb harder with one than the other.

Lincoln S · · Goleta · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 287

anything will do, just don't ever get a hook-nose wire gate on the bolt side of the draw

Wictor Dahlström · · Stockholm · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

My first set of draws was Ocun Hawk Wire QDs 15 cm. I wanted a set for everything, sport, indoor, ice, trad. They work very well and are cheap, but are not that sexy. Then I bought a few Petzl Spirit QD. They look fancier and feel nicer, but make no difference at all to my climbing. I actually bought them for ice climbing because there the golves can make a very slight difference, but all my spirits are 17 cm, that is kind of to long when you place a screw and want to clip the rope. They are still fancy thou!

Unless you get something very tiny that is hard to clip, it makes very little difference. If you plan to climb trad, I think the more flexible thin dynema sling is a slight benifit.

Webfoot · · Oregon · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Anna Brown wrote:

Agreed, the Petzl Djinn Axess quickdraws are a very solid options. No need to look anywhere else. You’ll be exceptionally happy with them.

Backcountry has the 6-pack on sale for $79.95. I recommend buying 2 of them.

https://www.backcountry.com/petzl-djinn-axess-quickdraw-6-pack 

Moosejaw has them for $86 but also a 30% rewards coupon. If you can make use of that for a future purchase that is $10 per quickdraw.

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

The Petzl Spirit Express rules!!!!

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,023

I have the Petzl Spirits and like the Djinn carabiner shape better in my hand. The Djinn is the way to go in my opinion. You will not be disappointed. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Recommendation for quickdraws"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.