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Taz lov 2/3 for LRS

Original Post
Cameron Clark · · Illinois · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 23

Hi I’ve been looking into potential setups for lead rope solo, and have come across the taz lov 2 and 3. I’ve seen many good reasons to use it for top rope solo, but the feedback on LRS is a bit limited. Just wondering if anybody has used this in their LRS system and if so what they liked and didn’t like about it. I’m definitely not the most experienced when it comes to LRS and am mostly looking for information to try and experiment with before I build my ideal system. Thanks in advance for the advice, and happy climbing!

Noel Z · · UK · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 15

I use mine for TRS and LRS.

I prefer the Taz Lov2 over the Lov3. My setup is a variation of this, which I copied from SICGRIPS. Yann's Youtube videos provides good instruction too.

Source: SICgrips 

With LRS how you attach to the device will be important. If you add a swivel, the you can rotate the device after a fall and abseil. I mostly attach with a Petzl Bm'D. It's ANSI gate can't enter the device and it has reserves in it high breaking strength. I'm sure DMM or Petzl have some kind of swivel carabiner combination, but those will be pricey. SIGRIP'S use of a cord through the tie in points looks good too.

Fan Y · · Bishop/Las Vegas · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 964

A quick mod on the lov3 - I added a pin so now it wouldn't open if the push pin is somehow engaged. 

Noel Z · · UK · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 15

The Lov3 is exactly the same as a Lov2, but it opens more easily, intentionally and unintentionally. That mod looks like it solves the unintentional opening problem. The Lov2 didn't have that problem. The Lov devices are great but there's lots of room for refinement. Bring on a Lov4 Taz.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

The Lov devices are excellent; I use mine in conjunction with a Revo to get redundancy without trailing stopper knots. Using a Taz or a Revo with trailing stopper knots is about as simple a setup as LRS gets, though, and I think that would be my recommendation for starting out with LRS. The grigri is the most common LRS device but I hate the bugger and think it's a massive faff. 

Also, there you will discover whether or not you fall into the backpack camp or a device-managed cache loop camp. Realistically you should be comfortable with both, but most people find they have a significant preference for one or the other. Try both out on super easy terrain and get comfortable with the systems then slowly up the grades. Maybe try it out with a Grigri on some 5.4 or something to get a feel for the basic systems before getting an LRS-specific device. There is loads you need to practice anyway such as preventing backfeed, sequential anchors on bolted climbs, and ground anchors.

The Taz is the best TRS device in existence, which also matters quite a lot if you plan on doing any multipitch (as you must second/TRS your own pitches), and it's also much better at rapping than a Revo, and it doesn't have the massive failure mode of shredding ropes in an FF2 like the Revo... but the Revo is an excellent device in its own right with that major FF2 caveat. 

I highly doubt you would be disappointed with a Lov 2/3 if you get one. I think once you get used to it and all the things it can do you'll start to see the obsession with the Silent Partner with confused amusement, as the SP has a huge stack of cons in contrast to the Lov. I've had SP users express envy at my Taz and Revo setups multiple times in conversations at crags where I was rope soloing. Modern LRS systems like the Taz Lov make the Silent Partner look like an antiquated dinosaur. I used to want one, but with my setup I have now I have a faster, easier to use, more versatile and more bomber setup. 

TL;DR:
Buy a Taz Lov. Lead with it, follow with it, rap with it, enjoy life with it, make SP users jealous with it, you won't regret it

PWZ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Have you considered doing the crazy thing and just climbing with a partner? 

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147
PWZ wrote:

Have you considered doing the crazy thing and just climbing with a partner? 

climbing on your own brings its own sort of unique satisfaction that cannot be replaced with partnered climbing. It's a totally different experience mentally and doing multipitch while constantly being "on" without any belay breaks is a rad experience not to be missed by anyone who enjoys their own company or the pleasant feeling of solitude in the outdoors. 

Laurie Bishop · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0
Noel Z wrote:

I use mine for TRS and LRS.

I prefer the Taz Lov2 over the Lov3. My setup is a variation of this, which I copied from SICGRIPS. Yann's Youtube videos provides good instruction too.

Source: SICgrips 

With LRS how you attach to the device will be important. If you add a swivel, the you can rotate the device after a fall and abseil. I mostly attach with a Petzl Bm'D. It's ANSI gate can't enter the device and it has reserves in it high breaking strength. I'm sure DMM or Petzl have some kind of swivel carabiner combination, but those will be pricey. SIGRIP'S use of a cord through the tie in points looks good too.

Noel could you post a picture of your system please? 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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