Summersville Lake DWS Recommendations

Hi everyone!

I’m taking a trip to the New for two days of DWS soon. I’m curious if anyone has recommendations for good routes in the 5.11-5.13- range to try. We will have a boat, so we’ll be able to get to pretty much anything.

I did two days of dws at the new last year, but it was a lot of easy scrambling and not as much challenging climbing. This time, I want to make the climbing aspect more engaging. I’m not much of a diver/cliff jumper, so I’m not really comfortable with uncontrolled falls much higher than ~20-25 feet. I’d love to hear if people have beta for some routes that are in the 5.11 to 5.13- range, with lower cruxes, that then ease up as you get higher.

Thanks a lot!

Chopping bloc at Long Point had some of the coolest stone I've seen and an interesting starting sequence. Masuko at Whippoorwill another popular option.

Rat's hole has some burly climbs if you're into the overhanging stuff. I personally don't feel as safe climbing roofs over water though, since it feels easier to get inverted mid-fall.

Andrew Tucci wrote:

Can you give me some info on how to find the rats hole area?

It's at Long Point.  Rat's Hole

The lake water level has been coming down, and it's more or less past DWS season, but I figured I'd chime in. I am one of the half dozen climbers who lives in the neighborhoods around rat hole. I'd strongly suggest against driving there, even when you find it on a map and see that it's possible. While the land next to the lake belongs to the Army Corps, the roads over there are all privately owned and maintained, and the available parking is on other people's land. Lots of the parking is soft land, has steep shoulders, or blocks people's driveways. It's easy to reach the climbing via paddle board, canoe, or kayak from the marina, battle run, or the boat ramp near the dam. If that's not possible, there are public places to park near 19, and walking in has less impact on the neighborhood than parking a car where it isn't wanted. Can't walk a long way? Feel free to message me, and someone might be able to find parking for you, but please do not just park on the private road, or other people's lawns, just because you want to get there.

Where exactly is Rat's hole? I can't find it on a map anywhere and the mountain project link only shows a picture of the wall.

Rat's Hole is south (climber's right) of Whippoorwill. Just keep paddling and you'll run into it eventually. The main part of the cliff is a very obvious feature - it's a steep bulge right next to a strip of shoreline. You shouldn't miss it. Looks like this: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/cj2to5/an_amazing_day_out_on_summersville_lake/

If you go straight up like the guy in that picture, it's a 12a, meanwhile if you traverse left under the roof it's 10a. There are various other climbs to the left of that in the 5.10-5.13 range but I'm not sure if they are documented.