Climbing Washington?

I’m taking 2 weeks to climb in Washington. Looking to do some Trad multi-pitch out there. Grade level 5.8-5.10b. What routes are recommended?

What type of Multipitch would you like? Alpine? Crag? Alpine Crag? Do you like slab or love slab? Are you really not in to sport Multipitch?

There are tons of options. Up north, the Washington pass area is chocked full of Alpine style stuff, with everything from rugged and vertical approaches, to the classic Liberty bell group which is pretty much alpine cragging. While there, a stop by Mazama can lead to some of the longest moderate sport Multipitch in the state (if not the country).

Darrington is my favorite place to smash out a ton of pitches, and two weeks here could lead to a massive amount of vertical feet climbed. It is ALL slab, but I consider it some of the best access to long climbs in Washington. The rock is also amazing. I recommend Total Soul, Silent Running, Mystery Tour, Blueberry Buttress, The Kone, Big Tree to Shake Rattle and Roll, and of course the stout area classic Dreamer as having amazing potential out here for slab enthusiasts. On the other side of the valley, the squire creek walls calls to many and have huge climbs all over them.

The Vesper peak area boasts a ton of alpine type climbs, and could lead to a bunch of days out enjoying a beautiful alpine lake while not climbing. On the way out, you can always take the quick detour to send Mile High Club, which is an amazing route in an incredible position.

Mt. Erie’s main wall has a bunch of rompy Multipitch, and is a great place to climb for a day or two. You could probably bang out most of the wall in two days which would lead to a plethora of routes ticked. This spot also has great moderate temps, which are nice in the heat of the summer.

Castle Rock in Leavenworth is a haven for cragging Multipitch, and is historically an important area for Washington climbing. Midway was Washington’s first crag based climb. Snow creek wall just a couple miles away similarly has amazing classic routes like Outerspace and Orbit to go tick. Leavenworth in general has great Multipitch, and I also recommend the Heart of Gold to Yard Art (Peekaboo Tower) linkup.

Index has a bunch of cragging Multipitch, and boasts some amazing spitters. The grades are nothing scoff at, and it’s home to the heart of most Washington trad climbers. Any one of the climbs on the LTW are ultra , and things like Rattletale and the Velvet Pedestal are within your grade range.

In the North Bend / Snoqualmie area, there is a TON of stuff. The Tooth is an area classic, but as the trail is closed the access is a lot harder at the moment. If you are in this area, I recommend taking a look at things like Training Day or the notorious Infinate bliss. The improbable traverse on Guye peak was badly damaged in rock fall recently so that is out of the question, but there is plenty out here that a quick look through the Kurt Hicks guide will show to you.

I’d also be wrong not to mention the potential of Beacon rock down south. Although this is more of a Portland area crag, there are tons of routes up to 7-8 pitches in length that are worthy down here. There are currently raptor closures (or at least there were two months ago) so beware if you head out.

That enough beta for you? Take a quick look through the search function and you’ll come up with something.

Tyler Stockdale wrote:

I’d also be wrong not to mention the potential of Beacon rock down south. Although this is more of a Portland area crag, there are tons of routes up to 7-8 pitches in length that are worthy down here. There are currently raptor closures (or at least there were two months ago) so beware if you head out.

Raptor closure ended July 15th as normal.

Wow excellent beta

Pretty good description of Infinite Bliss here

Tyler's beta is 100% spot on. The only thing I would add, if you're trying to stay in one spot go to either Leavenworth or Mazama and camp. Both of those (Lworth + Enchantments or Mazama & WA pass) can fill two weeks with multipitch 5.8 to 5.10b easily.

If you want to climb moderates at Index, these are my favorites aside from already mentioned:

Leave my Flake alone 5.8 3 pitch (Since you are already there, top rope Leave my Face alone 11a and Zoom 10d) 

Rogers to Breakfast of Champions 5.9/5.10a 2 pitch 

Lizard 5.8 4 pitch 

Princely Ambitions 5.9 2 pitch 

Godzilla 5.9 to pitch 2 of city park 10b. Third pitch Slow Children is amazing but it’s rated 10d

GM 5.9 climb first two pitches and then most people climb 10b splitter which is Heart of the Country for third pitch. Then you can add one more pitch of splitter after that which is somehow rated at 11a but I swear it doesn’t feel any harder than the previous 10b. So all in all 4 pitches

Davis-Holland is only 10a if you do the first two pitches. Most folks climb the 3 pitches and link the Loving Arms making it longer but just that second pitch is worth doing. Bolted belays so you can rap off after the second pitch.

Hope you have fun checking out WA!  Unless you are looking really long alpine type routes, multi-pitch and even single pitch stuff at Index are really beautiful. Grades are a bit sand bagged and climbs are athletic, but they are well protected and fun. 

At Leavenworth, Orbit 5.8 and Outerspace 5.9 are long and pretty on Snowcreek wall. A bit of a hike and walk off is scary. Not sure why MP calls 5.8 pg 13. I didn’t get that sense unless they are referring to the walk off LOL 

Outer Space and Orbit on snow creek wall in Leavenworth. 6 pitches each. If you can do both in a day you should look at Mt Stuart. Dreamer at Darrington.  

A really key detail not discussed so far: when is this two week vacation? I.e. is it soon (early August), or later in the summer/fall.

This is relevant since, contrary to some expectations by visitors, it can still get really hot in the summer at the lower elevations in the PNW. Next Monday in Leavenworth is forecast to hit 105. Even once that heat wave passes and it cools off to a more normal summer Leavenworth 90 degrees, you don't really want to be on a multipitch in the sun in that weather, if you can avoid it. Even 80 in the sun at Index can be pretty rough.

If you are visiting in August, the best option in WA are to go to high elevations. WA Pass is great for accessible alpine; must visit area. Vesper Peak is a longer hike but still a reasonable day trip, highly recommended. The Enchantments / Stuart Range region is outstanding also, but a more involved backcountry outing. There are also some alpine sport multipitch routes scattered around that are good in summer and offer a unique experience at a moderate grade: Tooth Fairy and Mile High Club are both nice accessible day trips with fun climbing and low commitment factor.

The lower elevation stuff - Leavenworth, Mazama, Index, most of Darrington - can be pretty hot in high summer. Still climbable (ish), but why suffer when you have better options elsewhere? These areas are better in September (Index, Darrington) and October (Leavenworth).

Don't forget Squamish. Aka the best climbing in WA. No farther from Seattle than many of the areas mentioned here. Stays generally cooler in the summer due to the moderate marine climate and often breezy conditions.

When I lived in WA the summer climbing focus was directed to Squamish or the WA high elevation zones. I'd recommend similar for a visitor.

If visiting in late September, that is a different discussion.