Ptarmigan Traverse in 2022?

Hello,  

Has anyone done Ptarmigan Traverse this year? Sounds like some people are looking at exiting ar Holden and taking a water taxi back but has anyone pushed through towards Downey closure?

PM me

I'm also curious about current conditions and exit strategies. Andrew, do you have any recent beta?

https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/104499-tr-dome-and-the-lizard-ptarmigan-ptarmithumb-traverse-07222022/?tab=comments#comment-1164551

dsadfa

hi, we are a group of colorado climbers heading up to the ptarmigan later this week, any info would be greatly appreciated. thank you in advance. 

Went up there and a large cornice (>30 ft) was blocking Cache Col. I didn’t get close to it but looked impassable and blocked the entire col. Been very hot so it will melt out at some point but who knows when. 

Doug, when was this? Thanks for the info. 

Marc Micatka wrote:

Doug, when was this? Thanks for the info. 

This past Friday. 

The Cache Col cornice was large but passable on the left the first week of July 2022.  Scramble up the mud and rock adjacent to the cornice.  

That’s what I was hoping! Thanks a million for the confirmation Lloyd!

Hi y'all -- Sorry for the radio silence. We did the Ptarmigan starting the 24th of Julty. We encountered the same issue described above (Cornice on Cache Col) but also scrambled up the mud to the left. It was...quite unpleasant and we ended up setting up a handline tied off to a backpack on the other side of the notch. Would recommend sending your most choss-inclined party member and doing the same. Otherwise was in fantastic shape.

Ya it goes.  Good conditions.  Have fun. 

crypto trad wrote:

Ya it goes.  Good conditions.  Have fun. 

You got any recent beta for glacier conditions? I'm thinking about trying to run it and wondering about the necessary gear

Any specific concerns Joe? I was in the area last week and might have some pictures if you're concerned. We roped up a few times, but I'm sure you could get through if you were willing to not rope up for glacier crossings. Snow conditions were pretty good all day - I used a single ice axe and aluminum crampons and it was pretty secure the whole way.