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Rappelling with small diameter ropes

Original Post
Ben Vaughan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

Hi, I’ve been getting into scrambling more in the boulder, CO flatirons and I’m trying to figure out a setup for rappelling off a couple of the formations that I don’t feel comfortable down climbing. I’m trying to keep everything as light as possible so I can still run the trails and not be weighed down, while still maintaining a high level of control on the rappels. I’ve only used 9-10mm ropes before so I’m just not experienced with the friction and use of the smaller ropes. I’m looking into a 8mm rope using an ATC w/ a prusick, but was wondering if I could go smaller. Say 7mm with atc and prusick, use a tag line, or a different rappel device? Thanks 

Michael Abend · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2017 · Points: 60

If using a rope under 9mm it would be best to use a device made for ropes that small. BD makes an alpine atc made for smaller diameter ropes. 

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

when i am rapping on skinny lines i like to add another biner to the atc. really helps clamp down on the rope better.

Marty C · · Herndon, VA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 70

Two ideas:

- extend your belay device and use your ATC. Then using a biner off your leg loop clip rope using a Munter hitch; two systems now adding friction/control.

- another technique, Z rappel - again extend your ATC and rig for regular rappel. Run rope down to leg loop, clip rope through a biner, and run rope back to ATC. Clip a biner to the ATC biner and run rope through this biner. This configuration forms a “Z” shape to the running rope with 2 bends increasing friction.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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