What’s an optimal crash pad combo

hey there pad people-

Starting to boulder more and I'm trying to get my crashpad setup dialed, and looking for recommendations.

i mostly combine pads with a group whenever i go outside, but i would like to be able to have decent with just my own setup, and have everything fit in back of my 07 Camry.

I currently have a single BD Mondo, which is confidence inspiring on high problems, but it doesnt fit in my trunk unless i really squish and bend the foam (not ideal) so I wanna see about swapping it out.

I measured the max comfortable size to fit in my trunk to be around 45" x 27" when folded (slightly larger could be managed though). Of course carrying many pads for several miles can be a hassle, so I do not mind efficiency for weight/ease of handling . But would rather not skimp out on ankle saving foam.

On this basis I’m wondering what would be best:

• two full pads (3’x4’) + a blubber pad. Seems like a pretty standard setup. I like the mad rock 5” thickness pad, and the organic pads. Seems compact but robust, but perhaps there are other options/combinations. 

• one big pad + a full pad. The only big pad that closes down small enough to fit in my car might be the organic big, but that also might be an inch too big in either dimension. Not sure if there are other offerings I haven’t considered though.

• two full pads and a half pad? A big pad + a half pad? (Other options I haven’t considered?)

Appreciate any recs

I have a metolius trifold and an organic full. Simple fits in my trunk of my lancer with room to spare. The trifold goes in the back seat no problem and I can take a passenger plus other gear. The trifold also can squeeze in the front seat if needed for more room in the back seats. There are two sizes of metolius trifold, I have the smaller. Despite fitting in places other pads won’t cram into, the trifold foam has gotten very flat. The extra seems aren’t ideal either. Madrock pads aren’t great in the least. I wouldn’t bother if you’re willing to spend on a better brand. Organic is best IMO. I’m looking to upgrade the trifold to an organic big pad simply because it’s much better quality.

I’d go with the organic big pad and a simple pad if it fits.

IMO the extra cost of the boutique pads (Organic, etc) is worth it. They aren't actually that much more expensive than the lower quality offerings from the larger companies, and the quality of landing and durability is a big improvement. The foam kinda sucks on the Metolius pads and breaks down quickly, whereas the Organic foam stays good for years of use.

The Organic Big Pad is awesome, but if it doesn't fit in your car then that's a deal breaker. The foam of the Organic Pads is very stiff, so you can't bend and cram it to make it fit like you can with some other pads.

Given your situation, I'd suggest Organic Full Pad, Organic Simple Pad, and Blubber. The flap on the Full straps them all together to carry (may need to get the strap extenders to have enough length, but Organics sells those for like $15). This setup would give you a ton of versatility for landings, should be fine to pack in the car, and would be reasonable to carry.

I think that given the choice of a half pad vs Blubber, go Blubber. Those things are super versatile. Good for sit starts, dab rocks, and give you a ton of coverage on low roof problems or traverses. Or if you are super short on space consider the Asana Pro Spotter instead. It's not as plush as the Organic Blubber but folds down way smaller. Similar idea to the Blubber though, just a bit thinner and folds better.

Another vote for Organic Full Pad + Simple Pad, plus a blubber pad (I use the Asana one). Convenient and light enough to carry yourself and very versatile. On traversing problems, I often use the blubber pad to pad the start + first few feet if it’s low to the ground, so I can save the big pads for the top out. It’s good for padding sit starts too, where a real pad would push your butt up too high. 

I have the BD Mondo too, but never use it anymore. As you know, it is heavy and the hip belt and straps are weirdly placed, as if it were made for somebody super tall. I also need to use ratchet straps to tie it to another pad and the blubber and it’s just way too much fuss.

Not answering your actual question, but figured I'd mention that I can fit a Madrock Duo in my girlfriend's Civic by sliding it vertically behind the driver/passenger seats. It sits in the rear passengers' footwell almost fully door-to-door, coming up about as high as the driver's shoulders. If you can get that Mondo in your Camry it opens up a lot of options for you while saving you a bit of cash too.

Check the Evolv Launch Pad.  It fits your dimensions, ignore the incorrect backcountry #s, and is much easier to carry and an upgrade over the mondo, which I also got tired of smashing into my car.   Works great with an Asana Pro Spotter for almost everything that's not highball.   

I will add that the Asana blubber type pad has become my least favorite pad (of any type) due to its slippery and slick nature. If it is on top of other pads and there is any angle to the landing or if I hit it from any slight angle I end up on my ass. It is also very annoying to keep having to reset back in place. 

Cheiftan Mews wrote:

I will add that the Asana blubber type pad has become my least favorite pad (of any type) due to its slippery and slick nature. If it is on top of other pads and there is any angle to the landing or if I hit it from any slight angle I end up on my ass. It is also very annoying to keep having to reset back in place. 

Interesting. I haven't experienced this with mine. Do you have the more recent version with the graphics on it, or the older plain black one?

I normally take three double pads, my main comment is that the organic has by far the best shoulder straps. So if you do go cheap get at least one organic just for your shoulders. 

My Asana blubber is super slippery and it has the graphics on it. The Organic one definitely does a better job as a gap protector, I just prefer the Asana due to lower weight and easier to fold up and sandwich in.

JCM wrote:

Interesting. I haven't experienced this with mine. Do you have the more recent version with the graphics on it, or the older plain black one?

I don't have one. It seems like there's one underneath every popular boulder problem every Saturday though. It's always the one with graphics. 

I'll throw my hat in the ring with a contrary opinion. There is nothing wrong with metolius pads and unless you're doing a ton of high balling I can't imagine a situation where an organic versus metolius pad would be the difference between injury or not. I rock two metolius session pads and an organic full pad. The organic is heavier but has better shoulder straps, the metolius is lighter and has the angled cut at the middle which can save ankles. 

My Metoliuos isn’t as soft as my black Diamond - but my heels still occasionally kiss the ground on certain falls. It’s a bit unnerving and much prefer the stiffer organic padding. That said, my metolius was my first pad and it worked for me for a long time. The straps are garbage tho. 

brand new metolius foam is fine, it's just that year-old metolius foam is notably worse than year-old organic foam. this seems consistent across all of the session 2 pads that I've had the misfortune of owning or landing on. one of my friend's old session 1 pads is still in really good shape, so they must have changed at some point.

Anyone have an opinion on the crash pads by Send Climbing? These got at least one sparkling review on eveningsends some time ago, but I never hear them mentioned otherwise.

Alot of them. 

I have two Organic fulls, a half pad, and recently added a slider to the quiver. With the exception of the slider, all the pads are in excess of 10 years old with heavy bouldering use and the original foam. I don't see myself retiring them any time soon. You can strap them all together will the load flap and still stuff things inside or biner things to the pads and never have to carry a back pack on your front. With proper pad placement, and experience bouldering, you can protect most scary or even highball lines with this rig on solo trips. There are obviously exceptions to those rules but I really could not recommend this set up enough. 

Buy yourself a full/briefcase pad combo, an extra simple pad, a carpet top slider, a bouldering bucket and a load flap and never look back. Seems like a heavy initial investment but your use over time will pay off tenfold.

For those with limited storage, my 5 panel combo is the metolius session 3 panel pad a cassin orange 2 panel pad. They hook together nicely for easy transport, small enough to fit in a honda civic, enough coverage for solo sessions, and at less than $350 total cost, very economical. When going out with a friend with any pads, every problem protects quite nicely. Add a bit of carpet material and it is a portable gym floor.