Mountain Project Logo

Best shoes for tensleep?

Original Post
Adam R · · Southwest mostly · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0

What shoes do people like for the tensleep dolomite that I hear eats rubber and requires good edging? 5.10 to 5.12 range of climbing.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Adam R wrote:

What shoes do people like for the tensleep dolomite that I hear eats rubber and requires good edging? 5.10 to 5.12 range of climbing.

Depends on what fits your foot, of course.

A stiff edging shoe is recommended. A pointy toe profile for poking into pockets it also good.

When I was climbing there a bunch I found the Miura VS to be a solid choice and a popular option. But that's just one option among many.

Adam R · · Southwest mostly · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0
JCM wrote:

Depends on what fits your foot, of course.

A stiff edging shoe is recommended. A pointy toe profile for poking into pockets it also good.

When I was climbing there a bunch I found the Miura VS to be a solid choice and a popular option. But that's just one option among many.

Perfect because I own a pair and already love them! 

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Adam R wrote:

Perfect because I own a pair and already love them! 

In that case just take your Miura VS and you'll be psyched.

There are a few slightly steeper walls where a more downturned shoe can be useful. Something like the Solution or Testarossa can be nice for some of the steeper routes on the wall now known as the Downpour Wall. This comes into play at 12+ and up grades, primarily. Otherwise, the Miura VS should be perfect for basically everything there.

Adam R · · Southwest mostly · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0
JCM wrote:

In that case just take your Miura VS and you'll be psyched.

There are a few slightly steeper walls where a more downturned shoe can be useful. Something like the Solution or Testarossa can be nice for some of the steeper routes on the wall now known as the Downpour Wall. This comes into play at 12+ and up grades, primarily. Otherwise, the Miura VS should be perfect for basically everything there.

Spectacular. If I get into those grades I'll get into some new shoes!

F r i t z · · (Currently on hiatus, new b… · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,155

Miura VS and Katana Lace are good, but Kataki are boner-inducing. Techy edging prowess with the thinnest toe profile since the SuperMocc (RIP). Honestly, in 12 years I've never worn a better shoe.

In their infinite wisdom, Sportiva disco'd them, so the crux is finding a pair. These are the purple C3 of climbing shoes. It will take months of therapy for me to forgive LS in my heart of hearts for striking them down in their prime like a cold-blooded killer.

Dane B · · Chuff City · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 5

I prefer my Muira VS out there. Instinct VS also dope 

Olivia Pendas · · Boston / Hanover, NH · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 335

Instincts (especially the instinct VS) are absolutely game-changing in Ten Sleep. After several months of climbing here no other shoes I’ve worn have had quite the edging ability on limestone.

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

I liked the solutions a lot for many of the pockety routes. 

Jammie Jefferson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0

Miura VS is really good I heard

Arash Banisafar · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Boostics, Miuras or Katanas. Stiff is the name of the game. 

Angelique Atlas · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

Boostics and/or VS’s with edge rubber

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
raven hopes wrote:

I feel this is a subjective topic. What works for one person won’t necessarily work for another person.

I have a friend who swear by Doc Martens…..and wears them the full length of Forest. For me Gore Tex Trail running sneakers are my good too. Another person may like Birkenstocks for the weekend.

It is really what your needs are and what you think your level of activity will be, but always take care of your feet.

Bot

https://www.reddit.com/r/ElectricForest/comments/ztra2g/best_shoe_recommendations/

rock climbing · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 5
F r i t z wrote:

Miura VS and Katana Lace are good, but Kataki are boner-inducing. Techy edging prowess with the thinnest toe profile since the SuperMocc (RIP). Honestly, in 12 years I've never worn a better shoe.

In their infinite wisdom, Sportiva disco'd them, so the crux is finding a pair. These are the purple C3 of climbing shoes. It will take months of therapy for me to forgive LS in my heart of hearts for striking them down in their prime like a cold-blooded killer.

Eat you mushrooms and tighten those katanas really well. You will never know the difference.
Life is short no time for therapy, ecological collapse 6 years away

WillF · · Sacramento · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 30
Adam R wrote:

What shoes do people like for the tensleep dolomite that I hear eats rubber and requires good edging? 5.10 to 5.12 range of climbing.

For all of the 5.12s I tried (project grade), I really liked Scarpa Instinct VS for both edging and toeing into pockets. I would think miura VS would also be good if I had them with me. My slippers which I used in Maple Canyon were terrible at Ten Sleep. A stiff shoe makes a big difference.

Adam Bibeau · · Saint Paul · Joined Feb 2021 · Points: 190

la sportiva testerosas. best fuckin shoe hands down. lander sells them at their gear shop. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
Post a Reply to "Best shoes for tensleep?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.