Best ski boots for ice climbing?

I need some ski boots. I don’t really ski but I am accepting I need to embrace it for well rounded winter climbing. With that said, I will be more using the skiis for transportation to climbs than for purely skiing, so I care more about how well they climb ice than how well they ski. It seems like good contenders are the Scarpa Alien and F1LT or any of the Arc’teryx Procline boots. Does anyone have any recommendations for a ski boot you can climb decently in? Thanks!

The ones that fit your feet.  Any of the boots you listed (and quite a few more) will climb ice fine (if slightly differently than traditional ice climbing boots), so get the ones that fit you (and that you can ski decently in).

I've climbed in the ~2017/18 model dynafit radical pro boot (orange) which has 4 buckles. It's big and chonky and honestly it was fine. As the internet tells you the 2 buckle and lower profile boots are better and allow more natural climbing movements while being lighter. Any ski boot is going to be able to climb it really depends on how warm and light you want to go. 

The three boots you listed would be the top three ski boots to consider for ice climbing, but are all pretty narrow/low volume. I owned the Procline and F1 LT (which is similar to the older Alien RS). The Procline climbed a little better but skied a lot worse, but the Procline is probably easy to find on sale/close out somewhere. But, I had to punch mine to make wider enough to use.

I would stay away from any of the Alien boot versions that have the little string for the upper buckle/closing system (i.e., the non-RS ones).

If your feet are wider, I would look at the Fischer Travers - which is a boot that I have been quite happy with for the last 4 years.

A really good ice climber could climb WI5 in downhill ski boots, but I would definitely steer clear of four buckle, heavier boots with limited range of motion. I'm a WI6 leader, but will use my Travers for only up to 4+/5- but above that, the lighter weight of a dedicated ice boot like the Phantom Tech is noticeably advantegous.

Pat Marrinan wrote:

I need some ski boots. I don’t really ski but I am accepting I need to embrace it for well rounded winter climbing. With that said, I will be more using the skiis for transportation to climbs than for here purely skiing, so I care more about how well they climb ice how well they ski. It seems like good contenders are the Scarpa Alien and F1LT or any of the Arc’teryx Procline boots. Does anyone have any recommendations for a ski boot you can climb decently in? Thanks!

The orange, 2017–2018 model Dynafit Radical Pro boot with 4 buckles is what I used for climbing. Actually, despite being huge and choky, it was fine. The 2 buckle and lower profile boots are better and allow for more natural climbing movements while being lighter, as the internet will have you believe. It truly depends on how warm and light you want to travel that will determine which ski boot will be able to climb.

i'm a mediocre ice climber and a mediocre skier. I normally top out at leading 4+/5- range in ice boots, and have the proclines and feel comfortable up to 4/4+, so I don't feel like at that level they detract much at all. They SUCK at skiing though (for a mediocre skier at least). I usually use the scarpa maestrale and usually feel pretty comfortable up to 35-40 degrees if conditions are good. With the proclines I find myself constantly catching ski-edges, and in general eating shit more often than I normally do. YMMV

edit because maybe i was a little too harsh. These would ski far better than silvrettas, and are enjoyable for mellow descents < 25 degrees.

If your objective is ice climbing with skiing as an approach method than why not get an old pair of Silvretta bindings?  That way you can ski in your ice climbing boots.  If you objective is to ski but you might climb a little ice then I would look into the ski boot options.

I liked climbing in the Salomon equivalent of the proclines, not so much skiing in them. Heard good things abt f1 Lts but they’re really cold, maybe an intuition liner would help. If this is what I think it’s for, I might even consider putting a pair of ice boots in the pack. Worth the extra weight.

Scarpa Maestrale XTs. 

Ben B wrote:

Scarpa Maestrale XTs. 

Sure, almost as good as a Full Tilt plug boot for ice climbing. It's getting harder to tell sarcasm from ignorance (either way, ignore this suggestion).

I own and have climbed with both the Procline and the Fischer Traverse Carbon ski boots.  The Procline has an Intuition touring liner in it.

Both of them climb steep ice reasonably well, with the slight edge going to the Procline.  

I think you may have a difficult time finding the Procline, as they've been discontinued for some time now.  

Earlier this year, or perhaps in 2021, there were a few climbs in the Alaska Range that were approached and descended on skis. I can't recall with certainty that the individuals wore ski boots while climbing, but my vague recollection is that they did. Perhaps their boot choices can easily be found.

Earlier this year, or perhaps in 2021, there were a few climbs in the Alaska Range that were approached and descended on skis. I can't recall with certainty that the individuals wore ski boots while climbing, but my vague recollection is that they did. Perhaps their boot choices can easily be found.

It appears at least 2 of them wore Scarpa Alien's.  I own those boots and could see climbing in them relatively decently.  

Alpinist Article

Buy approach skis. You can ski in mountaineering boots with them, save some money.