Acopa Nova

I've been waiting on this one since seeing it on Instagram a bit back. Looks interesting, though perhaps a bit narrower than expected?

Also curious if anyone has experience with Acopa's relatively new line of shoes (Fly, Shot, Gama, Nova)? There's not quite enough detail on the website for me to understand the differences between the models. Same with the Chameleon vs JB and Merlin vs Spectre. These all look interesting, but it's hard to tell what distinguishes one from another.

Nova here: acopaoutdoors.com/collectio…

The JB is the tops, as far as I'm concerned.  Lilke the high top so you don't rip your ankles when jamming.  A super all around shoe.  I love mine!!

The Merlin, and Spectre are like a Muira or Katana..only AWESOMER!! 

Recently got to try on a few Acopa shoes at their home base in San Diego. I was shopping between the Merlin's and the Spectres. Both described as very stiff, downturned, edging machines. Up front they look pretty similar but the main difference between them being the Merlin is slightly narrower and slightly more downturned, I found success with the Spectres for my wider forefoot. So deciding factor between them would be your foot shape. My Spectres felt broken in after just a few sessions in the gym and they really shine on small footholds but have been great on pretty much all angles and styles of face climbing.

Their new lines of shoes seem to be marketed more towards indoor climbing, made with synthetic materials and their "RS II" rubber which is described to be more durable and less performance oriented, haven't had any experience with the RS II rubber but the original RS rubber on their classic models is great. 

Andrew F wrote:

Recently got to try on a few Acopa shoes at their home base in San Diego. I was shopping between the Merlin's and the Spectres. Both described as very stiff, downturned, edging machines. Up front they look pretty similar but the main difference between them being the Merlin is slightly narrower and slightly more downturned, I found success with the Spectres for my wider forefoot. So deciding factor between them would be your foot shape. My Spectres felt broken in after just a few sessions in the gym and they really shine on small footholds but have been great on pretty much all angles and styles of face climbing.

Their new lines of shoes seem to be marketed more towards indoor climbing, made with synthetic materials and their "RS II" rubber which is described to be more durable and less performance oriented, haven't had any experience with the RS II rubber but the original RS rubber on their classic models is great. 

Thanks Andrew! Any chance you tried on the JB or Chameleon? I'd love to support a smaller brand, but there's just not enough info on the website for me.

James L wrote:

Thanks Andrew! Any chance you tried on the JB or Chameleon? I'd love to support a smaller brand, but there's just not enough info on the website for me.

I did not unfortunately, the Spectre fit like it was made for me even a full size down so I stopped my search there. It is unfortunate that there aren't more places to try them on but I would recommend reaching out to them through email, they were very helpful in my experience. I'm all about supporting smaller brands and what Acopa lacks in their marketing they more than make up for in their shoe quality and customer service.

mitchy B wrote:

The Merlin, and Spectre are like a Muira or Katana..only AWESOMER!! 

Mitchy, how would you say those fit compared to the Miura and Katana? I love my Miuras but I'm looking for a narrower version of it. Thinking about just trying the women's but also looking at alternatives.

In terms of torsional rigidity-stifffness- they are comparable, but definitely wider in the forefoot. The RS rubber is better in my opinion, it’s really sticky. I’m not sure if Acopa has a shoe that is as narrow as the Miura. The Aztec in another really great shoe as well, but it’s wider in the forefoot than the Miura. The photo may illustrate this. I bought the Merlin’s, and Spectre’s in my street shoe size, size 9 and the fit is perfect. My Miura’s are 40.5 and 41, and the fit is great as well. If you’re looking for a new shoe that is really great certainly give Acopa a shot, they make awesome shoes. But, they are not as narrow as the Miura.

mitchy B wrote:

In terms of torsional rigidity-stifffness- they are comparable, but definitely wider in the forefoot. The RS rubber is better in my opinion, it’s really sticky. I’m not sure if Acopa has a shoe that is as narrow as the Miura. The Aztec in another really great shoe as well, but it’s wider in the forefoot than the Miura. The photo may illustrate this. I bought the Merlin’s, and Spectre’s in my street shoe size, size 9 and the fit is perfect. My Miura’s are 40.5 and 41, and the fit is great as well. If you’re looking for a new shoe that is really great certainly give Acopa a shot, they make awesome shoes. But, they are not as narrow as the Miura.

Thanks Mitchy! I peeked at their .mx website and found a few more details. Still really curious to try a few pairs someday!

I ran an Acopa demo last year and the Gama was the big hit. I’ve been loving the Merlin.  Merlin, B3, and Gama all have similar last/turned up sole under the 2nd thru 5th toe.  Gama is a wonderful shoe with a very reasonable price. 
I spent a lot of time writing notes from that event, I can share specific size comparisons if anyone is curious. 

‘Gama 10 = Merlin 9.5

Gama 10 = B3 10 but Gama had more heel tension’

shot and fly seemed similar to Spectre/Chameleon, only synthetic. 

I think my next pair will be either B3, Nova, or Gama. 

James L wrote:

I've been waiting on this one since seeing it on Instagram a bit back. Looks interesting, though perhaps a bit narrower than expected?

Also curious if anyone has experience with Acopa's relatively new line of shoes (Fly, Shot, Gama, Nova)? There's not quite enough detail on the website for me to understand the differences between the models. Same with the Chameleon vs JB and Merlin vs Spectre. These all look interesting, but it's hard to tell what distinguishes one from another.

Nova here: https://acopaoutdoors.com/collections/frontpage/products/nova

JB 10= Chameleon 9.5. Chameleon wider than Spectre/JB, JB and Spectre fit similar. I really liked the Legend more than the JB to be honest, quicker to Lace and seemed like it would be more aggressive. 

Jon Rhoderick wrote:

JB 10= Chameleon 9.5. Chameleon wider than Spectre/JB, JB and Spectre fit similar. I really liked the Legend more than the JB to be honest, quicker to Lace and seemed like it would be more aggressive. 

Thanks! On a few of the images the Gama's strap seems a bit asymmetric - is this in fact the case? I'm never sure if I like asymmetric laces/straps/etc.

Here are the pictures I took of the Gama last year, comparing them to the Chameleon, Enzo, Merlin, and Skwama.  I feel like the velcro mainly keeps the heel from slipping out and the elastic does 90% of the securement, similar to the Skwama or Hiangle etc.  

I ended up going with the Chameleon that time around, which I would have never guessed prior to trying them on.  I really liked the tongue material of the B3/Chameleon, its like a neoprene foam (similar to Katacki/Katana Lace tongue), and unlined leather shoes are the best for comfort in my experience.  This new Nova has the most toe hooking rubber and that nice tongue material, it's probably going to be really good performance + comfort.  

Jon Rhoderick wrote:

Here are the pictures I took of the Gama last year, comparing them to the Chameleon, Enzo, Merlin, and Skwama.  I feel like the velcro mainly keeps the heel from slipping out and the elastic does 90% of the securement, similar to the Skwama or Hiangle etc.  

I ended up going with the Chameleon that time around, which I would have never guessed prior to trying them on.  I really liked the tongue material of the B3/Chameleon, its like a neoprene foam (similar to Katacki/Katana Lace tongue), and unlined leather shoes are the best for comfort in my experience.  This new Nova has the most toe hooking rubber and that nice tongue material, it's probably going to be really good performance + comfort.  

Hugely helpful Jon! Thank you! Especially like seeing the Gama next to the relatively known quantity in the Skwama as that was the other shoe I've been considering. I'll probably pick up a couple pairs and try them on and see what fits best. Thanks again!

Jon Rhoderick wrote:

Here are the pictures I took of the Gama last year, comparing them to the Chameleon, Enzo, Merlin, and Skwama.  I feel like the velcro mainly keeps the heel from slipping out and the elastic does 90% of the securement, similar to the Skwama or Hiangle etc.  

I ended up going with the Chameleon that time around, which I would have never guessed prior to trying them on.  I really liked the tongue material of the B3/Chameleon, its like a neoprene foam (similar to Katacki/Katana Lace tongue), and unlined leather shoes are the best for comfort in my experience.  This new Nova has the most toe hooking rubber and that nice tongue material, it's probably going to be really good performance + comfort.  

Actually any thoughts on the Gama vs Skwama? Looking at both of those and the Evolv Oracle right now. Looks like the Gama is a bit wider than the Skwama and maybe firmer?

I think wider + firmer is right. I have a pair of Skwama’s and have tried the Gama but don’t own. Skwama’s didn’t work well for me, they have really stiff material around the ankle that digs into the skin, I had to file/sand it!  They do have a bigger toe patch but that comes at the cost of a little bit of comfort.  Probably equal on the aggressive part, Skwama’s are downturned but lose that after a bit.  Gama’s have this upturn under the little toes that’s hard to describe until you try it. Skwama’s  are a little bit on the softer side, if you like soft shoes they’d make a great all around shoe.

I got the wrong size but here are some pictures of the Novas.  They have the upturned toe I like in the Merlin/B3/Gama, seem quite stiff, and maybe a touch downturned.  Tons of rubber.  9.0 are tighter than 9.0 Spectre or Chameleon, I could barely get them on so I would recommend a size up from what you usually would order.

If anyone end up ordering any acopa shoes you can use code TW312REF for 15% off

Jon Rhoderick wrote:

I got the wrong size but here are some pictures of the Novas.  They have the upturned toe I like in the Merlin/B3/Gama, seem quite stiff, and maybe a touch downturned.  Tons of rubber.  9.0 are tighter than 9.0 Spectre or Chameleon, I could barely get them on so I would recommend a size up from what you usually would order.

Thank you! And how's the width on them relative to the Skwamas now that you have them in hand?

James L wrote:

Thank you! And how's the width on them relative to the Skwamas now that you have them in hand?

Skwama 41.5 is wider than Nova 9.0 by maybe 5mm? Also  the upturned outside edge takes some volume out of the toes. 

Jon Rhoderick wrote:

I got the wrong size but here are some pictures of the Novas.  They have the upturned toe I like in the Merlin/B3/Gama, seem quite stiff, and maybe a touch downturned.  Tons of rubber.  9.0 are tighter than 9.0 Spectre or Chameleon, I could barely get them on so I would recommend a size up from what you usually would order.

When I contacted them, they said this is their software leather-free shoe. It's stiff you say?