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Headwidth of TCUs vs. other micro cams

Original Post
Alyssa Keene · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 30

I don’t own any TCUs. I keep seeing them as gear beta and just bring my usual rack and an array of nuts. Question is, is the head width of TCUs actually something that would warrant purchasing a few? I’ve got a rack of Z4s down to .1 and Mastercams down to 00. How much smaller are the heads of TCUs comparatively?

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Absolutely not, tcu's used to be somewhat narrow but these days are completely obselete. Old beta calls for old gear.

TCU's are noticeable wider than the heads of any micro cam these days including totems. 

Just compared the one TCU I own to a wild country friend (not zero friend) of the same size, the wildcountry is about 3mm wider.

From outdoor gear lab:

"The head width is so wide it does not work nearly as well in shallow pin scars as the Metolius Master Cam or CCH Alien." 

TCU's are beyond obselete.

Alyssa Keene · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 30
that guy named seb wrote:

Absolutely not, tcu's used to be somewhat narrow but these days are completely obselete. Old beta calls for old gear.

TCU's are noticeable wider than the heads of any micro cam these days including totems. 

Just compared the one TCU I own to a wild country friend (not zero friend) of the same size, the wildcountry is about 3mm wider.

From outdoor gear lab:

"The head width is so wide it does not work nearly as well in shallow pin scars as the Metolius Master Cam or CCH Alien." 

TCU's are beyond obselete.

Exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks a bunch!

Serge S · · Seattle, WA · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 688

Mostly agree with seb, but it depends on how you define "head width".  Counting the lobes only, the orange TCU is 4-5mm narrower than the 0.4 Z4.  But if both stems are included, the TCU is 6-7mm wider.  In some cracks the TCU stems get in the way, in others they don't.  Often only 1 of the 2 stems gets in the way, and in that case the TCU and Z4 in that size have the same width.

John Sigmon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 83
Serge S wrote:

Mostly agree with seb, but it depends on how you define "head width".  Counting the lobes only, the orange TCU is 4-5mm narrower than the 0.4 Z4.  But if both stems are included, the TCU is 6-7mm wider.  In some cracks the TCU stems get in the way, in others they don't.  Often only 1 of the 2 stems gets in the way, and in that case the TCU and Z4 in that size have the same width.

I agree, many placements exist that will take a tcu but not a z4 or other 4 lobe cam.


not obsolete at all, but a far more specialized cam than it used to be

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
John Sigmon wrote:

I agree, many placements exist that will take a tcu but not a z4 or other 4 lobe cam.

This is straight up BS

John Sigmon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 83
that guy named seb wrote:

This is straight up BS

A quick google search finds outdoor gear lab, alpinist, and several ppl on MP agreeing with me but OK. 

https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/climbing/climbing-cams/black-diamond-camalot-c3

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11f/ms-ag-metolius-ultralight-offset-tcu

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/1121192

Screenshots from the non MP links



that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
John Sigmon wrote:

A quick google search finds outdoor gear lab, alpinist, and several ppl on MP agreeing with me but OK. 

This is the funniest shit I've ever seen, your own post refutes you, one of your screen shot posts is literally about offset tcu's, which are of course, worse than a totem or any equivalent offset cam. The 3rd one wasn't even a TCU it was a C3, another cam which is pretty dated but much narrower than any TCU. 

John Sigmon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 83
that guy named seb wrote:

The 3rd one wasn't even a TCU it was a C3, another cam which is pretty dated but much narrower than any TCU. 

Hey Seb, TCU stands for three cam unit. Not sure what you think a C3 is. OP didn't ask about different brands, but the usefulness of TCUs in general.

Anyways, to the OP, sorry this is getting derailed. To your original question, it's probably not worth picking up some TCUs. If I had your rack and was looking to pick up more small cams I'd look at offsets (aliens, dragonflies, metolius, z4s), or some totems. Happy climbing.

J S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 113

Is this reddit? 

Alyssa Keene · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 30
John Sigmon wrote:

Anyways, to the OP, sorry this is getting derailed. To your original question, it's probably not worth picking up some TCUs. If I had your rack and was looking to pick up more small cams I'd look at offsets (aliens, dragonflies, metolius, z4s), or some totems. Happy climbing.

Thanks for the spirited conversation guys! I appreciate all the input. I recently started climbing with some offset cams on my harness and they have saved my ass more than once in the few times I’ve taken them out. Based on what I’ve read from you all, I think I’ll forgo the TCUs and maybe grab a couple more offset cams and a Totem or 2 in the smaller sizes.

Zach Harrison · · Flagstaff · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 1,715

TCU’s fit nicely in asymmetrical placements. Some rock types have those placements more often. Something to consider. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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