Best climbing gym in Salt Lake City

It's been a few years since this great discussion. How about an update? I'm sure some things may have changed. The Front now has a South Main location which is pretty nice, for example. 

If one were mainly interested in the setting quality and training options and less about craft beer on tap, for example, which is the best place? Momentum seems to have a more corporate feel, has Walltopia walls, you can't take your shirt off, etc. The Front is definitely more laid back, has a younger feel with fewer kids running around. Seems like you could probably get strong at both if you were inclined. But The Front has a dog park, pretty hard to beat that.

LCC is the answer. 

I'm somewhat curious to hear how the Salt Lake climbers have reacted to Salt Lake Bouldering Project. The "Bouldering Project" gyms have a very distinct flavor (for better or for worse); curious how it has fit into the scene in SLC.

JCM wrote:

I'm somewhat curious to hear how the Salt Lake climbers have reacted to Salt Lake Bouldering Project. The "Bouldering Project" gyms have a very distinct flavor (for better or for worse); curious how it has fit into the scene in SLC.

They blocked them on MP…..

JCM wrote:

I'm somewhat curious to hear how the Salt Lake climbers have reacted to Salt Lake Bouldering Project. The "Bouldering Project" gyms have a very distinct flavor (for better or for worse); curious how it has fit into the scene in SLC.

I’ve climbed at several bouldering projects and love them. Much better and more interesting route setting in my opinion. Most gyms are just crimp fests.

Both the front and momentum are great.  The biggest factor is distance from your home or place of work.  

I am also wondering about the bouldering project.  I have not yet been, and only heard one or two mediocre reviews.  

Dan Cooksey wrote:

LCC is the answer. 

i've climbed primarily at momentum millcreek, but recently switched to boulder project for the summer to switch things up. For context I'm an outside sport climber, and just boulder in the gyms during the week for training.

Setting style at BP is pretty good so far, the bouldering walls and volumes provide a good variety of movement and length, but the color coded grades are a bit hard to get used to (you eventually just remember which top 2 colors you try). Also, if you're climbing harder than V11, you won't have much to project, but plenty to try to flash and stuff. They hired one of the setters from momentum that i really like, so its been nice. So far i like it there, and the kilter board is kinda fun. And the wall texture is good and similar to walltopia. Oh and the best perk, NO CROWDS. Minor drawback is the lack of ropes, but doesn't matter much to me. 8/10

Momentum millcreek lately has leaned super hard into comp blocs, which is fine, but a little annoying when a lot of the real estate is used up and not filled in with other stuff. Unfortunately the expansion gave us a lot of vert/slab, so thats what they're using it for. i usually just end up trying the long boulders in the old area, which are probably the best training for sport climbing. They also will set harder double digits on occasion (usually sit starts). if you lead in the steep, it's definitely the best in town though. Biggest drawback, VERY CROWDED (team kids, beginners, all the top ropes, etc). 8.5/10

I cant speak with too much authority about the front since I just visit on occasion, but it appears the best for pure boulderers. Plenty of harder blocs. At times i've foud their sets to be quit cruxy, and not as flowy, but i like muscle beach at SOMA, and a couple sections at the OG front. Not a fan of the wall texture or the setting style for roped climbing there. Both locations are apparently also very crowded, and they just raised their rates $$$. They do have the best yoga around though, and autobelays if you are weirdly into that. 7.5/10

I can add one major difference I noticed. Momentum has excellent AC. Even when it's 100F+, The Front just opens their windows. But you can take your shirt off which Momentum doesn't allow (interesting). But it was pretty oppressive climbing there in the heat wave.

I thought the setting for routes was marginally better and slightly harder (in a good way) at Momentum. More routes as well compared to the Front. Front routes seemed more cruxy, like they were set by a boulderer. Not necessarily a bad thing. Similar amounts of bouldering between them I thought. Haven't bouldered at Momentum but thought it was quite good at The Front. Not sure how I feel about the dot grading system though. Can run into the issue where you can flash most/all of one dot but the next harder dot all feel impossible.

They both seem good. Deciding between them is a good problem to have. Momentum seems to be all about the climbing. The Front has climbing plus a lot more, e.g. jiu-jitsu, 5:30 AM workout classes, etc.

Rollin wrote:

i've climbed primarily at momentum millcreek, but recently switched to boulder project for the summer to switch things up. For context I'm an outside sport climber, and just boulder in the gyms during the week for training.

Setting style at BP is pretty good so far, the bouldering walls and volumes provide a good variety of movement and length, but the color coded grades are a bit hard to get used to (you eventually just remember which top 2 colors you try). Also, if you're climbing harder than V11, you won't have much to project, but plenty to try to flash and stuff. They hired one of the setters from momentum that i really like, so its been nice. So far i like it there, and the kilter board is kinda fun. And the wall texture is good and similar to walltopia. Oh and the best perk, NO CROWDS. Minor drawback is the lack of ropes, but doesn't matter much to me. 8/10

Momentum millcreek lately has leaned super hard into comp blocs, which is fine, but a little annoying when a lot of the real estate is used up and not filled in with other stuff. Unfortunately the expansion gave us a lot of vert/slab, so thats what they're using it for. i usually just end up trying the long boulders in the old area, which are probably the best training for sport climbing. They also will set harder double digits on occasion (usually sit starts). if you lead in the steep, it's definitely the best in town though. Biggest drawback, VERY CROWDED (team kids, beginners, all the top ropes, etc). 8.5/10

I cant speak with too much authority about the front since I just visit on occasion, but it appears the best for pure boulderers. Plenty of harder blocs. At times i've foud their sets to be quit cruxy, and not as flowy, but i like muscle beach at SOMA, and a couple sections at the OG front. Not a fan of the wall texture or the setting style for roped climbing there. Both locations are apparently also very crowded, and they just raised their rates $$$. They do have the best yoga around though, and autobelays if you are weirdly into that. 7.5/10

Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for.