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What is the largest/most comfortable harness that comes in a size XS?

Original Post
Tim Wheatley · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined May 2019 · Points: 931

I ordered a misty mountain custom harness size XS and that barely fits me, it leaves me with a hurting waist due to it not fitting perfectly. I main a BD momentum XS and that fits great tightened all the way down. I really want a harness that has enough padding to spend a long day in but a lot of harness manufacturers don't cater to the smaller sizes of climbers or don't think people my size are going to need a harness like this for some reason. Any POSITIVE feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'm 17 and I'm done growing. I tried the BD big gun size S and that was too large. I also tried the SingingRock Big Wall Harness in the smallest size and that didn't fit either.

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137

Check the Metolius website for their harnesses and size chart. They make harnesses in extra small. I ordered one of their harnesses and was surprised at the amount of padding and super sturdy construction. Sorry I’m on the road and don’t have that harness with me so I cannot tell you the model. But their stuff is made in the USA and they have great customer service. 

Tim Wheatley · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined May 2019 · Points: 931
phylp phylp wrote:

Check the Metolius website for their harnesses and size chart. They make harnesses in extra small. I ordered one of their harnesses and was surprised at the amount of padding and super sturdy construction. Sorry I’m on the road and don’t have that harness with me so I cannot tell you the model. But their stuff is made in the USA and they have great customer service. 

Ive looked at those! Its quite interesting as the memonetum size chat for a XS is a minimum 24 waist and so is that of the XS misty yet the Misty doesn't fit me as well. Thanks!

Webfoot · · Oregon · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Petzl Aspir shows a minimum size of 58cm which is 22.8 inches.

Tim Wheatley · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined May 2019 · Points: 931
Webfoot wrote:

Petzl Aspir shows a minimum size of 58cm which is 22.8 inches.

Thanks! But that looks horribly uncomfortable for long periods of time. I'm looking for something with a lot of padding for long days.

Braden Doane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2021 · Points: 0

Call John at Yates Gear and ask about tailoring a Shield harness to your dimensions.

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

The best padded harness I've tried is the Metolius Waldo. Super comfy for all day hanging.

Webfoot · · Oregon · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Matthew Jaggers wrote:

The best padded harness I've tried is the Metolius Waldo. Super comfy for all day hanging.

Curious about the range I checked the product page and it shows an XXS Waldo for sale. It could be an error because that size isn't on the chart, but maybe it's a special run?

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695
Webfoot wrote:

Curious about the range I checked the product page and it shows an XXS Waldo for sale. It could be an error because that size isn't on the chart, but maybe it's a special run?

Call them. They have the best customer service of any brand I've ever dealt with.

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines & Bay Area CA · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 15

Waldo is the way.
They make down to xxs. They will also do customs for a reasonable price.
I do know lots of people that swear by the Cadillac by Misty as being the most comfy harness on the planet. Not sure how small they go.

Webfoot · · Oregon · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Mr Rogers wrote: I do know lots of people that swear by the Cadillac by Misty as being the most comfy harness on the planet.

Tree climbing saddles are designed for hanging around in if that's the measure of comfort.

Eunny Jang · · Washington D.C. · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 10

Harnesses in this size range are super hard to find. Misty Mountain will add gear loops to their kid's harness (22"-24") if that appeals to you. Ocun and CAMP both make XSs that fit down to about 22.5"; Mammut's XS goes down to 24" but runs much smaller than BD/Petzl/Wild Country 24" XS. These are all women's/unisex sizes btw. Don't have specific harnesses I love for comfort to recommend but at least some manufacturers with consistent sizing to look into.

The biggest issue is that every harness in this size range has trash gear loops, like absurdly small or just not there at all; a lot of 4/5/6 loop harnesses have only two on the smallest size. Adding loops to the Misty Mountain is the way I am going to go next. 

K Dub · · Out West · Joined May 2018 · Points: 144
Tim Wheatley wrote:

I ordered a misty mountain custom harness size XS and that barely fits me, it leaves me with a hurting waist due to it not fitting perfectly. I main a BD momentum XS and that fits great tightened all the way down. I really want a harness that has enough padding to spend a long day in but a lot of harness manufacturers don't cater to the smaller sizes of climbers or don't think people my size are going to need a harness like this for some reason. Any POSITIVE feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'm 17 and I'm done growing. I tried the BD big gun size S and that was too large. I also tried the SingingRock Big Wall Harness in the smallest size and that didn't fit either.

It's still too big? Measure your waist and legs and compare to the sizing chart: https://mistymountain.com/sizing-chart/

The youth harnesses go down to a 22 in waist. Call Misty and ask them to customize a youth harness to have adequate gear loops for you.

F r i t z · · (Currently on hiatus, new b… · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,155
Matthew Jaggers wrote:

Metolius has the best customer service of any brand I've ever dealt with.

This statement is so on the money that it deserves to be memorialized by a 

Molly Ohm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2022 · Points: 22

I recently got the Edelrid autana harness. It is quite comfortable for me, and the XS goes down to 23.6", buuuut the gear loops are teeny tiny, and the XS only has 4. Not sure what they were thinking with gear loops this small. If you do more sport climbing, or like to use a gear sling it wouldn't be as big a problem. The mens version is called the Sendero, but the small did not fit me at all, way too big, and they don't make an XS in this version. I have approximately a 25" waist and also am struggling to find a harness that is durable enough for heavy usage rubbing against sandstone, fits well, and is comfortable. I did try on a metolius harness, and it was too large in the size they had in the store, but was quite comfortable. If you're looking to sell that Misty Mountain, get in touch!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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