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Nuclei FL or DAS Light?

Original Post
Elijah Benson · · Austin, TX · Joined May 2021 · Points: 0

The title is a bit misleading, because really I'd just like thoughts on what lightweight, compressible jackets that are comfortable in temperatures ranging from the 30s to windy, cloudy 50s and 60s when belaying on multipitch climbs. I have a full DAS that I got on a crazy Steep&Cheap sale, but that seems like overkill for what I'm looking for. Pros that I see on the Arc'teryx: adjustable hem, dump pockets, spacious stuffsack. Pros of the DAS Light: two way zipper (this is big), marginally lighter and more weatherproof. I'd love to hear feedback based on your experiences, and I'm curious about the Rab Xenon 2.0 as well. Thanks!

Justin P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2005 · Points: 268

If the Nuclei and DAS Light could have a love child, I reckon it might be the perfect jacket in the category. Your pros are all right on.

I happen to have both jackets, as well as a trashed older Xenon. I initially purchased the DAS light to replace my Xenon, but had an eye on the Nuclei for awhile and pulled the trigger when I found a good deal.

The DAS light is a great jacket and super comfortable, but the lack of a cinchable hem is a near fatal flaw in my opinion. It's drafty and I feel like the jacket isn't as warm as it could be, particularly when it's windy. Also, despite the ability to stuff it into its own pocket (with clip loop), good freaking luck making that happen; the pocket is simply too small. WTF, Patagonia? It fits like a belay jacket in my standard size and I suspect I could even size down. My girlfriend is actually on the fence between sizes.

The Nuclei has a more technical fit and isn't as comfortable over thicker winter layers. At a belay it doesn't feel as bulky or in the way when dealing with ropes, and better if I'm actually moving. While I've only had it a short time and don't have a fully formed opinion, it's warm. Maybe too warm at times given how it doesn't breathe at all. It's the puffiest and loftiest of the 3, and I feel like the warmest. Why no 2-way zip, Arcteryx???!

The Xenon is a great jacket. It has a boxier fit, sort of in between the others, and isn't as warm. The construction and zipper quality is lower, but it's also a lot cheaper. 

All that said, I'm very curious to hear anyone else's opinions. If you can order or try on all 3 at once, I think you'll be able to make a good decision pretty quickly. But really you can't go wrong as they're all great pieces.

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276

I would check out the Cumulus climalite jacket. I love mine and much cheaper than the jackets you mention.  

I use mine multipitch Iceclimbing when temps are in the high 20s on top of my layers.  Usually on local stuff that I know I can down from in weather etc.  

I really like it 11 ounces with 65gsm of Climashield apex.   Insulation has been pretty durable and jacket has held up though with such a light shell it would get trashed if it was rubbing against rock regularly.  

https://cumulus.equipment/us_en/men-jacket-climalite-full-zip.html

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276

comes with a stuffsack and packs to a bit bigger than a soda can.

189$ IIRC I got free shipping 

bearded sam · · Crested Butte, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 145

I have lots of Arcteryx jackets and I got the DAS light at the beginning of last winter. It’s ok compared to my old Nuclei AR but the zipper and my chin do not get along. Fully zipped it fold over toward me and rubs my chin raw. I’ve never had this problem with an Arcteryx jacket. Seems to be a pattern or size issue as I’m continually swallowed by Patagonia larges and mediums are hilariously to short in arms and torso

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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