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Sport harnesses with large gear loops for occasional trad.
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Unfortunately it is time for me to retire my harness. I know there are many existing threads on harnesses, so mine will have a specific spin that I haven't seen in other threads. For context, I mostly sport climb but 10-20% of the time it would be used for single and multi pitch trad, where I like to carry a large double rack. I know the correct answer is getting two separate harnesses and I am not going to find a great light and mobile sport harness that is also comfortable on hanging belays and supportive of a heavy rack. I'm willing to sacrifice on some of that comfort and support of a trad harness, as long as I can find a nice sport harness that has large gear loops. I've never liked my previous harness so anything will feel like an upgrade. My top choice was Arc teryx ar395a, but it is sold out in my size and I'd be fine not spending that much. A lot of options have been reviewed extensively already in other threads so I'm just adding some ideas of ones I have not seen reviews for below. Anyone have thoughts/experience with these? - DMM renegade 2 - I've seen a lot of reviews of this as a trad harness and that is how it is marketed. I got to try it on in a shop but they did not have my size. It seemed comfortable, but curious if anyone sport climbs in this harness and how they like it. - Petzl Aquila - I've seen some negative reviews on older models. I saw they just released a new model this year. Has anyone tried the new model yet? The gear loops look like they overlap. Does that cause issues when loaded with a full rack? - Edelrid Helios - looks nice, but can't find a single review online for it. It might be new. I'm wondering if it replaces their old Orion, which seems to be no longer sold. - Camp alpine flash - a bit of a wildcard here. I've seen a lot of reviews here of people who really like it as a light weight option. Any comments on how big the gear loops are? |
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Hey, seriously. Bite the bullet. Buy Arcteryx. Excellent trad harness, have used it to climb big walls with triple racks. Many hanging belays. Pretty light, packs down very flat and small. My favorite harness out of 5 and by far the most comfortable. Trad, sport, alpine. It’s a great harness. Huge gear loops
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Wild Country Synchro is comfortable, with well thought out large racking capacity. |
Kai Larson wrote: Funny timing on this. My buddy is selling this harness because it’s so uncomfortable. I tried it on and agree that it is the least comfortable harness I’ve ever tried on. Super stiff. He has numbness in his hips from climbing leaning tower a month ago due to this harness. And it would make a terrible sport harness. Super bulky |
Alex Fletcher wrote: I'm not opposed. It's just sold out everywhere including their own website. They also don't take returns on harnesses, which makes sense, but it would be nice to try one on before committing and I can't find it anywhere. |
Kai Larson wrote: I thought about this one. My buddy actually has one and likes it. It looks great, but they came out with a new model recently and I am not as into it as the older model. |
Daniel Navarro wrote: I like the offset gear loops on the new model better. |
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Arcteryx harnesses run huge but their size chart seems accurate. Follow that and you should be OK. Just be warned the C-Quence is a love/hate for people, personally it smashes my jewels. The 395a is a safer bet fit wise. I'd avoid the Konseal until we know more, it looks weird/seems to have too much padding. Seems like a lot of folks have them kicking around so might worth posting WTB for one if you're comfortable with a used harness. I found a new FL-365 on a random streetwear site recently (it seemed very strange) so don't limit your search to mountain project. Good luck in your quest to find an Arcteryx harness. |
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second figuring out the Arcteryx, I had one, wore it out, tried two other models, waited till the Arcteryx came in stock and ordered. I have been checking the site everyday for weeks, and this week some sizes started trickling in. So keep watching! |
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I'm totally failing to see what the problem is climbing a sport route in a trad harness. Is 50 - 100g more really going to shut you down? You've got that much mass in your bladder and/or rectum. |
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I'm on the Love side of The Arc C-quence spectrum. It fits better than any harness I've used and is perfect for your needs. Even has ice screw clipper slots. |
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I have a Petzl Sama that I use for sport and trad. I didn't comparative shop and admit that I just hung in it at the shop when I was determined to walk out with a harness. No regrets. Can't comment on gear loop size, but I took it up 525' in the Sandias and it was more than fine to rack and semi-hang in at one of the belays. |
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I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but the Blue Ice Cuesta feels like you're wearing a cloud and catches like you're proverbially falling into one. Only four loops, but they're sizable and well positioned. I can't say enough positive things about this harness. |
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I bought a BD solution as a sport harness thinking I would buy a 2nd one for trad, but I love it so much that I only climb in it and do lots of trad and multipitch in Red Rock. It's super comfy and even with a heavy rack it sits comfortably on your hips. I will say that BD's gear loops are a bit puny which isn't ideal, but I've still never had issues fitting a double rack on it by just racking differently (clip doubles together). |
Bryan K wrote: I have the solution guide and have no issue fitting a double rack on the 4 loops racking normally - if it's a multipitch I'll generally throw any anchor related stuff on the 5th back loop, but if I'm not bringing cord/rap device/third hand/etc. then the 4 loops is fine racked normally on that. Granted, I typically only bring like 6-8 draws in addition to my double rack so if you're bringing more than that maybe it would get pretty cramped - but even then I think you'd be fine. |
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Before I got my Misty Mountain, I did a bunch of multipitch trad in the Petzel Adjama. Easily carries a double rack, comfortable enough to hang in for a bit, and light enough for a general sport harness. If you're planning on doing a whole bunch of trad, just bite the bullet and get a specialized harness. But, if your goal is primarily sport climbing with just the occasional 5-7 pitch route then you could do far worse than the Adjama. |
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If you're willing to spend Arc'teryx cash, you can easily find a sport (and gym or use your retired harness) and trad harness for the same price. Shop the sales and closeouts. |
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Camp energy CR4 harness. Light, double adjustable to keep gear loops centered, decently comfortable and super affordable. |
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The new Petzl Aquila/Hirundos look super promising. MEC has that they're made in Canada on their site. I have been checking other places to try and confirm it's true but haven't seen anything yet. If someone sees where they're made let me know, because if it's true they could be a really good Arc rival. |
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I have a Petzl Sama that I wear for everything. the front gear loops are large enough to fit a double rack and the rear and fifth loop are perfect for draws and anchors materials. |
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Misty Mountain Turbo |
