Mountain Project Logo

Squamish Rainy Day Craggin'

Original Post
Alex Hughes · · Juneau, AK · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 20

I'm planning a trip to Squamish June 12-20, but am pretty bummed out by the forecast. I've heard that Chek is climbable in the rain. After multiple days of rain, is it still dry? What are your experiences with wet weather in the area and are there other crags I should be aware of?

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

Generally PNW claim that crags stay dry in the rain, and they are full of BS. Often crags can be fine in up to .1 inches of rain but generally after that they will seep if it is actively raining. Given the forecast is significantly more than that I am pretty skeptical but would defer to a local.  If no local responds look at what routes you wanted to try and cross reference historical rainfall data.

I could imagine the 5.12 and harder routes around the big show would be the driest. There might be a video of someone climbing on that feature in a down poor. However I think your belayer would get pretty wet if you are off to the side of that feature and not right under the 5.14. 

I don't know if you have a car or flexibility but I would absolutely bail and just go to skaha. Skaha is pretty darn good and you could climb in the light rainfall forecasted there if you go to one of the 5.12 walls. Skaha is quite easy to navigate and the guidebook has notes about rainfall. Much of it is missing from mountain project. 

Edit: Alex didn't we go climbing at Mt. Erie and Vantage last winter? This is Trevor.

James Maltman · · Vancouver · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 362

Second hand from a friend who was climbing there, but at least last weekend, most of the typically dry areas at Chek were pretty seepy after the downpour. The Monastery still had some dry routes, as well as Echo Beach.  I'd say that while you can usually find a few dry routes if it hasn't been nuking all week, the selection definitely becomes pretty limited, and I wouldn't plan an 8 day trip around the few routes that are hopefully dry.

Mark Webster · · Tacoma · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 235

Yupp, I've climbed sport at Chek in  a huge downpour. I remember a couple eights, a nine and a 10a that were all dry. It was fun. There was harder stuff too. But that's only a day. Squamish in the rain generally sucks. I've done the Squamish to Smith drive a couple of times back when I only had two weeks off a year. Nothing like starting out your only vacation of the year with 9 days of rain coming in off the coast. As a consolation prize, City of Rocks is excellent granite and usually dry. Super chill climbing scene there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
Post a Reply to "Squamish Rainy Day Craggin'"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.