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Montserrat Climbing
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I’m going to be around Montserrat late June-early July. How is the climbing there around this time? Any other beta that I should know about the place? |
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Hello, Gus. Montserrat is an amazing place and it’s possible to climb sport or multipitch all year around, following sun, shade. It covers a huge area and can be somewhat difficult to navigate, though… that is, finding your way to the base of any particular climb. One general guidebook in English that might help you find routes that interest you is Montserrat Free Climbs by Castellnou and Ferret. Feel free to PM me for more info. I might be around during that time (possible Stateside trip is pending) and, if I am, I could introduce you to a moderate multipitch classic to get you started. P.S. How is your Castellano or Catalan? There are blogs in both languages that are useful, with pictures, route commentary, and topos, if that might work for you. I can post a few links if that is of interest. |
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Another data point… if you don’t have a car, there is a bus that leaves Sants Station in Barcelona every day at 9:15am and takes you directly to the Monastery for about 5-6 Euros (one way). In summer (Jun-Aug), it leaves the Monastery at 6pm (5pm departure from Sept through May, I believe) to return to Sants. Takes about an hour each way. Very convenient for climbs in the Gorros and Monastery area. You can do a nice multipitch, then grab a relaxed something to eat at the cafeteria before returning to BCN on the bus. |
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Bring trad gear. Some of the classics are a mix of fixed & trad. Awesome place! |
Daniel Joder wrote: Hi Daniel, I'm not the original poster but I'm probably going to be moving to Barcelona at the end of this year. I've been to Montserrat once before, but only hiking. This time I'll have my gear with me :) As Montserrat is so huge I'm interested in the blogs you mentioned. I can't speak Catalan, but my Castellano is pretty decent. Thanks in advance for anything you can share. |
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Hey, Erik. Definitely get in touch when you get in town! OK, I'll try to summarize some Montserrat info here--from the perspective of an older trad Granddad who doesn't climb particularly hard and prefers multi-pitch... This is just MY experience... Some blogs/websites with topos and route descriptions (multi-pitch) for climbing in Catalunya and, of course, at Montserrat: 1. Escalatroncs used to be my go-to blog/website for topos/descriptions, but the author closed it down (I think to avoid attracting crowds--like me--to the routes). You can still find his topos in PDF form, though, if you know the route name/sector. For example, for the route called Badalona on Gorro Frigi at Montserrat, type into Google "Badalona Gorro Frigi Escalatroncs" and you'll find this: Via Badalona, Topo 2. El col.lecionista de vies is a site I use quite a lot now--my new go-to source. Lots of topos and route descriptions for multi-pitch routes across Catalunya and at Montserrat. For example, he lists 41 routes just in the Gorros area of Montserrat HERE. 3. Another good source of multi-pitch topos/route descriptions can be found at Escalada per a tontos. For an example, check out what he has posted for the route called Via del Carles on Gorro Frigi at Montserrat. (A route that is documented on MP.) 4. Also Blog del Guillem. All of the above is in Catalan. If your Spanish is really good, you can figure a lot of it out, but there are Catalan terms and expressions that will require you to use a translator. (For anyone reading who didn't know, Catalan is a separate Romance language, just like Italian, Spanish [or Castillano], French, Romanian, Portuguese, etc.) Some guidebooks for Montserrat, to get you started: In English, you have Montserrat Free Climbs by Castellnou and Ferret. There are likely some 4,000 to 5,000 routes in the Montserrat area--this book just lists the more classic and popular ones, both Sport and Multi-pitch. For the more popular sectors in more detail... In Spanish (Castellano), you have Monserrat Gorros by Luis Alfonso, Montserrat Cara Sur Volumen 1 Vias Cortas by Luis Alfonso, Montserrat Cara Sur Volumen 2 Vias Largas by Luis Alfonso. There are other areas with great climbing at Montserrat (notably Les Agulles, and the area above La Ermita de Sant Benet which includes La Momia and L'Elefant, et al), but these three guides are plenty to get you started. [NOTE Vias Cortas = Sport, Vias Largas = Multi-pitch] A few other Montserrat notes... --Sometimes finding the start of the route is the crux of the climb. Once you dive into the steep, brushy gulleys between the formations, it is hard to maintain situational awareness on your target crag/route. Going with a local is often your only chance of finding the route in some cases! The super popular routes are partly popular because the approach is pretty straightforward. --Routes put up before the bolting/sport revolution can be quite run out. They may be "easy" (5.5-5.8), but you may find only one or two (or no!) bolts on any given pitch. Typically, though, once you get to V+ and harder on multipitch climbs, the cruxes are reasonable well bolted. --If you want an easy, well-bolted (for the risk averse) multi-pitch route, look for the name Guillem Arias. His bolts are usually painted yellow and there are often many (usually grades of 5.5-5.9). See his website at Blog del Guillem for topos/descriptions of many, many easier multi-pitch routes throughout Catalunya and especially Montserrat. When we want to go easy and don't want to scare ourselves, we look for one of his routes. --The rock is conglomerate at Montserrat, so you are constantly on the hunt for the easiest way up... 30cm to the left, 40cm to the right... zig-zagging your way up is often the key to avoiding an unnecessary 6b move on a V+ rated climb. --Two grades are often given for a route... example: 6b (V+ oblig.)... . This means you can free the thing at 6b, but can pull on draws or aid your way past any cruxes to keep the free climbing at V+ max. As an older guy, I appreciate this! --It's not a bad idea to carry maybe 4-5 small to medium cams (Totems!), or even tricams, with you, even on "bolted" routes as there are often pockets that will take pro. Slotted bolt hangers ("placas recuperables") are useful on occasion to slide over bolt heads with missing hangers--but this is usually on the less traveled routes. I guess I should emphasize... just because a route is bolted DOES NOT mean it is a sport route. --There are more traditionally trad-like routes as well (few or no bolts, following "crack" systems)... usually the route description will tell you what rack is required... standard rack often works. Tricams and Totem cams work well in the holes and irregular "cracks". Cordage or slings to thread through "puentes de roca" are sometimes needed. --The sport climbing is... well, sport climbing, with usually fairly (but not tightly) bolted routes and anchors. Popular sport areas with easier routes can be crowded, especially on weekends, and the rock can be a bit polished at these places. --Climbing multi-pitch during the week, we are usually alone or nearly so... so solitude is easy to find if you stay clear of the super popular classics. --The place, to me, is enchanting. Nothing like being high up on Gorro Frigi, and listening to the bells ring at the Monastery far below... and on a clear fall/winter/spring day, you can see the snow on the Pyrenees in one direction and the Mediterranean Sea in the other. --Summer: It's possible to find shade and climb in the morning. You'll bake in the sun. If you can migrate further north to Germany, Switzerland, or even Norway, better. --Winter: Sunny climbs are easy to find. Beware, though, if you find yourself in the shade and the wind comes up you can really freeze your ass off--bring a puffy just in case. --Fall/Winter/Spring are the best seasons, IMO. Shameless plug: On my website, I have a blog entry in which I am starting to collect photos of different anchors/pro at Montserrat. The info there could be useful to someone, mainly newbies I suppose: Climbing Anchors and Protection, Montserrat. I also have a couple of blog entries with descriptions of the Barcelona rock gyms and urban outdoor venues: Urban Rock Climbing Barcelona and La Foixarda Rock Climbing Tunnel. |
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Hi Daniel, What a treasure trove of information... amazing really. I had the impression that the topos for the region were kind of spread around - which seems to be the case. Your blog/site seems like a nice general Barcelona reference as well, including the gyms and in-city areas. Thanks so much for sharing. Seems like enough for a lifetime. I'm not a particularly strong climber now; used to climb sport up to 5.12 years ago, but fell out of practice with career and study moves. I'm currently in Laos, where there's fantastic limestone but a shortage of free time to get the multiple sequential days needed for travel and climbing in good areas. Getting back into some semblance of climbing shape now, loving easy multipitch and prioritizing enjoying exposure/fun journeys rather than difficulty. Montserrat seems like a dream for this. I've got pretty much the rack you recommend including a set of totems & a few middle size cams. At the moment I only have a single 70m rope; seems like extra careful preparation is required to think about rappels before heading on the routes which summit pillars. Great tip on the routes on Guillem's blog. Thanks very much again for sharing the very valuable info & I'm sure others will find it useful as well. I'll be in touch as things materialize. |
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Yeah, Erik, at my age I am quite happy getting on easier multipitch and just enjoying being up high on the rock. If we end up climbing together, don’t worry about gear as I also have pretty much everything—including a set of doubles (50m) which are useful for some of the raps here and there. |
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Hi All, I am going to be in Barcelona from the 6th through the 16th of October. I really want to climbing at Montserrat but I cannot bring all my gear across the Atlantic. Can someone recommend a reputable guide for a day trip to Montserrat? Thanks, Mark |
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I have had Toti Valés as a guide and he was great. He was, at one time, the director of the national climbing team here in Spain, I believe. Saint Google should help locate him. I will be out of town most of the time you are here in Barcelona, but could maybe get out for an easy multipitch on the 14th, 15th, or 16th. I’ve got all the necessary gear. DM me if that interests you. I’m definitely not a guide but have a bit of experience. |
Daniel Joder wrote: Thanks Daniel, I really appreciate it. |
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It can be expensive to climb in this area depending on how you get their and the hiking map system is not easily available. Google maps was not very useful, and directs you on roads when their are trails available to the top. Round trip for 2 to the top using train from Barcelona, cable car, and ticket to top of Saint Joan, is over $40 euro for 2. Cheap was to the area was a 4 zone ticket from Barcelona which cost 12.40 euro, and then its hiking. The coffee next to Aeri de Montserrat station was the best I had in all of Spain. The hours seem very limited, wow, unexpected, we tried to go back but was not open in the evening or weekdays? We went to https://www.mountainproject.com/area/117968618/pistatxo which has some new, and also very old bolts, like rusty rings on a nailed in bolt. Anchors on top seem good. In hindsight should have gone some place with less travel time to climbing, but worth the visit. Got stormed off mid climbing due to rain. |
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Back in the day climbers from Madrid used to spend a month in Montserrat and then move on to Verdon or Chamonix. Too much mucking around travelling between Barcelona and the crag, so they used to camp in the spot or in the hut that's located near Cavall Bernat for the sake on convenience. That was in the 80s. No idea how things are done today. |
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Just want to add my voice to this since it's seen some recent comments. In 2022 (November) thanks to the advice from Daniel above, I was able to get Toti Valés as a guide and he was exceptional! He met us at the train station and took us to a great crag after we described what we were looking for. We did a 5 pitch casual route with some great exposure and met interesting folks along the way. Had we not had Toti, we would've probably lost most of a day (if not the whole day) just route-finding and especially getting off the route as I discovered there were a multitude of raps to get down on the back-side of this particular (and likely other) routes. Regardless, 100% recommend Toti (thanks Daniel). Also, he mentioned to me that he has a climbing hostel-style setup where you can stay at his estate and there are various crags to visit within the area where he lives.  |
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Geissler, I’m glad you had a good time. What 5-pitch did you do, by the way? And, yes, I have done one of Toti’s three day climbing camps and it was very worthwhile. He has a rustic “refugio” where you stay, we ate meals there with his family, and there are many crags very nearby so he was able to pick and choose something appropriate for the weather, winds, and for our ability level. Good times. |
Daniel Joder wrote: Hi Daniel, we were on "Agulla Can Jorba", and did a combination of two routes "Scabulini escrabulini + Bego Kush". Pretty sure it was a total of 5 pitches and then it was like 13 raps to get down! I think we would definitely take him up on the Refugio! Cheers. |
Geissler Golding wrote: Awesome! That must be his go-to route on the south side for cooler conditions as he took me up that one, too. Although we came down via a sort of via ferrata thing in the gully to climber’s right—didn’t rap. Maybe to via ferrata has been taken down, not sure. Anyway, my first climb at Montserrat. |
