Famous/Popular climbs with crux 6+ boulder grades harder than rest

Im curious what are some famous climbs that people don’t realize are really not sustained at all with 6 feet-12 feet of hard bouldering surround by climbing that is too easy to be a warm up. I’m thinking like 5.11 into a 10 foot v6 into 5.10. Climbs that people do regularly. I can list a lot not done regularly.

more common is the one move wonders.

Forgive my ignorance as I am not a hard climber but it seems like this is kind of normal for hard climbs? Most films documenting hard climbs tend to highlight the crux (sometimes 2) surrounded by relatively easier climbing. Occasionally you get one where they point out “it’s 5.13 the whole way, most climbs don’t push you this hard” or some such.

Just some Gumby impressions. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

more common is the one move wonders.

That’s fine too but a lot of one move wonders are more than one move.

anonymous coward wrote:

Forgive my ignorance as I am not a hard climber but it seems like this is kind of normal for hard climbs? Most films documenting hard climbs tend to highlight the crux (sometimes 2) surrounded by relatively easier climbing. Occasionally you get one where they point out “it’s 5.13 the whole way, most climbs don’t push you this hard” or some such.

Just some Gumby impressions.

Yeah but even then it tends to be like 5.13 (v6/7) into like a v10. I’m more thinking a climb where some casual 5.10 climber could make it up to the v10 crux. Or where you have a 0% chance of falling before or after the crux.

Pure Imagination

I think cherry red and the tribute in rrg are allegedly both like this. Haven't been on either though, just hearsay.

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

Or where you have a 0% chance of falling before or after the crux.

If you're off the ground the chances are never 0

American Prayer (14a) in Rifle is said to be V11 into 5.11. This route gets done pretty regularly. 

The South Face of Washington Column (Free) is a wildly different type of route, but also kinda meets this criteria. Crux (Kor Roof) is supposedly a V10/V11 boulder problem.  The hardest pitch otherwise is 5.12. AAC report here. This route is not done regularly (as a free climb).

There is probably an Ondra route on the Czech limestone that meets this criteria.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106697401/death-of-a-cowboy

15' V6/V7 followed by 100' of 5.10 hands

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105862062/poker-face-alice

25' of 5.9 followed by a V5

Austin Donisan wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105862062/poker-face-alice

25' of 5.9 followed by a V5

Good example.

Sentry Box is Squamish is another one. A much climbed classic as well.  Its basically 10a handcrack to 10 feet of 12a fingers. No one capable of climbing the route should fall anywhere except that 10 foot crux section.

The Nose

Great examples everyone. 

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

Pure Imagination

This one interests me. It seems like it would be the case given the number of onsights but then I recall sasha giving an interview where she said there were three distinct cruxes?

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

Great examples everyone. 

This one interests me. It seems like it would be the case given the number of onsights but then I recall sasha giving an interview where she said there were three distinct cruxes?

That’s cause Sasha is soft and thought it was legit 9a….jk…..kinda….but for real the first 3 bolts of Pure Imagination are like 10+ then there is a crux followed by some filler climbing to another crux. 

It’s not exactly as you described, but 3 distinct cruxes exemplifies what you are looking for to an extent, no? There is a video of Dru Mack doing it (An adidas video I believe) showcases this pretty well.

Bunch of these in the Junks(gunks). Modern Love 13a, Thumbs Up 13a, Circumsisor 12b, Dissonance 12a, Requiem 12d, Kansas City 12c, so many more.

Thumbs up is like 5.6, 13a for a few weird moves, and then 5.10ish.

Does Cloud tower or levitation count ;)

JCM wrote:

Sentry Box is Squamish is another one. A much climbed classic as well.  Its basically 10a handcrack to 10 feet of 12a fingers. No one capable of climbing the route should fall anywhere except that 10 foot crux section.

Is that finger section that short? I thought it was longer than that.

Austin Donisan wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106697401/death-of-a-cowboy

15' V6/V7 followed by 100' of 5.10 hands

This is the first one i thought of.

Another one might be liberty crack. Really short aid/hard section and a shit-ton of 5.9.

slim wrote:

Is that finger section that short? I thought it was longer than that.

I might be misremembering, it's been a while.  

I do remember that for the first section of the finger crack your feet  are still in great #2 camalot jams. The  hardest section of climbing doesn't start until your feet leave the hand crack, so that cuts off a body length from the crux.  

Still, perhaps not the best example for this thread.