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Sleepwalking

Original Post
Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 669

I've searched and nobody seems seriously concerned about sleepwalking while big walling. But I've done some surprisingly complex stuff while asleep, and wouldn't put it past myself to untie a figure 8, or take my whole harness off, and walk off a ledge.

Any foolproof solutions would be pretty impractical, but I'm curious if anybody has put any thought into this, and what some reasonable measures to take would be?

Nathan M · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

bikelock swami baby

Christian Hesch · · Morro Bay · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 55

IAD seems to solve the problem, can even bring some modafinil with you if you suffer from narcolepsy... ;) 

Ross Goldberg · · El Segundo · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 203

A real answer would be that I doubt you’ll get to deep/long enough sleep to sleepwalk. Worst case you’re tied in for a reason. Use a lock on a figure 8 on a bight.


EDIT: locks aren’t rated for falls 

Will Shaw · · Hillsboro, OH · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 110

Sleep with your harness on backwards?

PatMas · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 40

Use a quick link that you cinched with a little wrench. Bury the wrench at the bottom of the bag. I sometimes struggle to get hand tightened quick links undone by hand, throw another 1/4 turn with a wrench and you are basically welded into whatever system you are in. 

Ryan Franz · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 35

U-lock around the neck to the portaledge frame. Give your partner the key.

(Breaking Bad reference)

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Taco Hammock!!


you literally can’t get out- or sleep


problem solved 

Sam Skovgaard · · Port Angeles, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 208

If you're sleeping on a natural ledge, I would go for a similar strategy and tie yourself into the rope in such a way that it would wake up your partner if you're trying to get out of your harness.  Tie some knot to your hard points with a long tail and tie the tail to your partner.

Another thought worth considering is: maybe big walling isn't for you?  Solo bigwalling definitely seems out of the question at the very least.

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 669

Thanks for the answers. My best idea had been to tighten the hell out of the knot and add few wraps of tape around the harness buckle.

The tightened quicklink idea also seems pretty good.

I hadn't thought at all about the partner-based solutions, but those are also good points.

Michael Abend · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2017 · Points: 60
Ryan Franz wrote:

U-lock around the neck to the portaledge frame. Give your partner the key.

(Breaking Bad reference)

This is what I immediately thought of! 

Nathan M · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Jesse Scarborough · · Menlo Park, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 90

I believe you'll find the correct answer here thanks to comedian Mike Birbiglia.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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