Is the Misty Mountain Cadillac a good all around harness?
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Looking for a new harness, something that is comfortable and capable all around... From the gym to a sport route to a trad climb. I know I might be asking a lot, but wanted some feedback from you guys/girls as the major review sites don't talk about it too much. Also open to other suggestions as well. |
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I think the Cadillac is an amazing harness but I would not use it as an all-around harness. It's fairly bulky and certainly not low profile. I use it as my bigwall harness and for any occasion I need to spend significant time in a harness belaying or hanging. I would not want to use it for sport climbing. It's certainly comfortable. No harness out there will do everything you want it to do. Buy a Cadillac and use it for what it excels at. Then buy a sleeker harness for sport climbing and the gym. |
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It's been the only harness I've been using lately, for everything. That includes the gym, and I took it down a canyon last weekend as well. They really nailed the design of the gear loops, and it's been extremely abrasion resistant. For just sport climbing, it's probably not the best but I'm finding it not worth the trouble to switch to a different harness. It's not going to get much wear and tear from gym and sport climbing anyways. |
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If you want to pay too much for 1990's tech, then yes |
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Peter BrownWhale wrote: Any suggestions? |
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People love arcteryx. |
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The Cadillac is comfy and bulky. Nothing outdated about them. If you want a harness that packs down smaller and isn't as comfortable, get something else. |
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Isaiah aka Zay Foulks wrote: Who unthreads their buckles all the way? |
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Been through several Misty harnesses back in the day, really nice; bought a custom Cadillac a couple years ago for near 2 bills, total disappointment. Fit, buckles, adjustment, wear patterns, general craftsmanship- adios Misty for me. |
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I've owned a Misty Cadillac for about 5 years now and it has been my go to for everything but sport climbing. I think it especially shines on long trad multipitch climbs - really comfy at belays, extra gear loops to keep your rack and draws well organized, and I don't climb hard enough to blame the weight of my harness for holding me back. Has been very comfy and functional for a few big wall climbs, but more light and ergonomic than say a BD big gun that it's even my go to for trad cragging. The buckles are modern auto-locking plates, no threading or doubling back. The double belay loops are a nice addition for bigwall, but are a little overkill for general use - one niche thing they're great for is running parallel microtraxions on twins if you're using the fix and follow technique. No chest rig, just one micro and one rope for each belay loop. Used this technique on Crest Jewel on North Dome and it's the fastest I've ever seconded pitches in my life. It's seen it's fair share of chimneys, offwidths, etc and I haven't had any issues with durability. I added one extra long gear loop along the back (like BD Technician) with some paracord threaded through some small black plastic tubing and I love it - great place to keep belay device, cord, knife, nut tool, hollowblock, etc widgets out of the way but not all clipped to the one little tag line loop. If I'm wanting to go fast and light in the alpine, there are better options. I also don't use it for sport climbing as I prefer gear loops with a more rigid, box-like profile for easy clipping and don't need the extra padding and support. Were I more of a sport climber, I doubt I would like it as much. As someone who trad climbs probably 75% of the time and especially enjoys long multi-pitch objectives, it has been a great all around harness for me. I'm also originally from the Carolinas so there's a bit of an implicit bias. |
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Sam Striano wrote: I've never tried one, but a Turbo or Sonic might be a better option. They seem to get good reviews. Comfy enough for multipitch trad, but light enough (quite light actually, at least the Turbo), for single pitch sport or trad. |
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This topic has been beat to death a lot on forums lately. Get a Solution Guide, a fancy Arc'teryx if you are made of money, or whatever that 5 loop thing Petzl came out with last week is. I use a solution at the gym and a solution guide outside for multi, trad, sport, route dev, and photos, totally adequate comfort. I also used a Cadillac on a wall and a Solution guide on a wall and I'll give you one guess which one I still use. |