Small diameter static rope for anchor building

I am considering purchasing a small diameter static rope for anchor building, approx. 9mm-9.5mm with good knotability and a nice hand. I am considering getting a canyon rope because they come in good lengths and diameters. I am currently looking at the Beal Speleo II in 9mm but I have heard iffy things about the quality of their rope products. I would prefer not to pay more than $200 msrp for a 46m meter rope if that helps with recommendations. 

I use Sterling 9mm for my top rope anchors.  They have some in stock right now.  I cut the 46m rope into 60 foot and 90 foot pieces.

https://sterlingrope.com/store/climb/ropes/static/htp/9mm-htp

I should have clarified. Yes, this would be for setting up rappel and top-rope anchors far from the cliff edge, creating anchors with a tether that can be rapped on, and building multiple anchors on the same rope. For context, I recently finished an SPI class and I am working on building my kit. I have been borrowing an 11mm static rope that works but it is more bulky than I want to deal with when lugging things out to the crag and does not take knots well.

11mm is overkill, the 9mm rope is strong enough and will be 35% lighter.

I did some more reading too. A canyon rope is overkill and overpriced. I was under the assumption they came in smaller diameters or different that traditional static ropes. The edelweiss (I had the wrong brand) Speleo rope is much more in my price range even though I want to buy sterling ropes every time I use them.

Sterling should have "shorts" where you can select approx diameter and approx length and get it at a pretty nice discount.

i use this:

https://pmirope.com/product/9-mm-ez-bend-pmi-classic-professional-rope/

Here's a couple of options:

Imlay rope sampler

Imlay rope pieces

Thomas,

I purchased the 9mm Speleo II for a similar purpose. I cut mine in half and use it to set up top ropes in the Ouray Ice Park. It is light, packs and takes knots well. It’s only been used two seasons on ice but I can’t imagine that it wouldn’t be a great anchor rope on rock too. Hope this helps. 

I’ve used the Imlay 9.2 Canyoneero for years and it’s unbelievably, like super unbelievably durable. It is not what I’d call supple by a long shot. But it does tie good knots. Glad I bought it. I think i bought it by the foot…

I have a 100 ft chunk of 9mm sterling HTP static that I like for making my kid a zipline, setting up anchors, and TR solo.

Edit: Also, its works well with my gri gri/micro trax.

I use ropes that I retire for anchors.   As long as they aren’t core shot their good.   

Check out libertymountain.com they are based in Salt Lake City and last time I was in their store there they had a ton of off cut ropes that were new for 30-80% off, 

you might want to call them during business hours because I’m not sure if those super discounts are on their website. 

+1 for 9mm Sterling HTP, it checks the most boxes for an anchor building rope. It is stiffer than nylon ropes, but knots fine with a tad more effort. Polyester is also heavier per unit.

• 100% polyester for better abrasion and cut resistance than nylon. The better wear and abrasion resistance is very noticable.
• Super super static. I think this is the most static rope currently in production?? Stretches 1.6% at 300 lbf.
• 9mm is reasonably thin and strong. Does not cost a million dollars like canyon ropes with exotic fibers.
• Cheap

Isn't Beal the biggest climbing rope manufacturer in the world? They sell 8 million meters of climbing rope a year. They came up with a lot of the technologies, weaves, core treatments, sheath treatments etc., that other brands all use today. They've also made ropes for other brands (like pmi and bluewater do in the US) 

I would trust their products. 

Patrick L wrote:

Isn't Beal the biggest climbing rope manufacturer in the world? They sell 8 million meters of climbing rope a year. They came up with a lot of the technologies, weaves, core treatments, sheath treatments etc., that other brands all use today. They've also made ropes for other brands (like pmi and bluewater do in the US) 

I would trust their products. 

Most big rope manufacturers like Edelrid and Teufelberger check all of those boxes: pushing down to 8.4mm, bonded core and sheath, dry treatments, making ropes for other brands. If we're talking significant historical developments thats also spread across the board with no clear leader. Edelrid literally invented kernmantle ropes.The developments of good dynamic ropes is not really relevant to making good static ropes.

For other rope activities like canyoneering and work, smaller brands like Sterling have been clear leaders for static ropes: using exotic fibers like technora, spectra, polyester to make ultra strong static ropes down to 8.0mm. For this reason, I'd say Sterling currently leads for static rope. Sterling HTP 9mm is the perfect balance of price, strength, abrasion resistance, for anchoring.

Cheap static rope HTP POLYESTER 

$79 for 150ft 9.5 mm

Also 50 and 100 foot

https://atwoodrope.com/products/3-8-static-olive-drab?variant=32924395110485

Ackley The Improved wrote:

$79 for 150ft 9.5 mm

That's a great price.  Have you used this rope?

Webfoot wrote:

That's a great price.  Have you used this rope?

Not that diameter. Have used the 1/4" for tat/cordelette to carry in my pack for extra on alpine climbs. Works fine for that as long as one takes into account the strength limits, a little stiff for prussics. I use lots and lots of their smaller diameter cord for drawcords and tent guy lines. Small company in the US.

When my current top rope anchor material wears out, will likely get 100 ft of the 3/8"

Ackley The Improved wrote:

Cheap static rope HTP POLYESTER 

$79 for 150ft 9.5 mm

Also 50 and 100 foot

https://atwoodrope.com/products/3-8-static-olive-drab?variant=32924395110485

They have some really interesting products tbh. I'm a bit skeptical that they don't seem to have any external certification for any life safety ropes. Usually when I see something like this, I assume its some random foreign manufacturer with a fake US address, but nope, on google street view they actually have a building with their sign.

I use a 50 foot piece of static rope, which I slide about 10 feet of tubular webbing over it to the middle and form a figure eight on a bight as my main point. I use 2 steel ovals and a steel locking oval as my main point. This gives you the main loop with steel carabiners which is protected by the webbing and provides about 8 feet of abrasion resistance on each strand from main loop and those are about 23 feet. This works to tie off trees or rocks. I also keep 2 steel locking ovals with this if I need to clip to some bolts.

For our climbing programs we put one of these anchor sets in each rope bag.

The static rope is so much stronger, more abrasion resistant and cut resistant when compared with 1” tubular webbing. When I first started running programs, I was replacing webbing every 3-4 months. I switched to this type anchor and retire them after 10 years due to age! If the webbing gets real fuzzy, you untie and replace it. For our programs we will buy 150-200 foot static ropes and pull them out of the package and proceed to cut them. ( sacrelige!)