Best multipitch harness?

I wanna hear your thoughts on the best harnesses for multipitch, trad and sport. I'm currently doing it all in a BD momentum and it's killing me. I know people will suggest Misty mountain, I wanna know what other stuff is out there.

Depends on you mostly. What is the BD doing wrong that you'd like to remedy? 

Most harnesses are single buckle and asymmetric gear loops drive me crazy so a lot comes down to fit for me ie where the loops line up on any particular model once cinched. And I like the old school buckle more than quick release on a rock harness personally. 

I have a near decade old Metolius All Around for rock and I'd buy the same tomorrow if something happened to it. Bomber, comfy and fits me right. The adjustable rise lets me dial in a fit that I can't get from any other harness I've tried, but maybe I'm oddly proportioned. It's not light or sexy. 

I'd also consider Misty. 

DMM Renegade looks cool and has a floating belt for my gear loop OCD. 

Arc are worth trying on, harnesses are one of their few remaining products still made in Canada though that won't last long (they are making some of the new Konseals in the Philippines, would expect the others to follow). 

Edelrid Sendero is popular but I thought the loops were tiny. 

I try not to give BD money since the beacon fiasco. 

I just bought the mosquito and session from wild country, so I could give you a report in a little bit once they get here. I was seriously considering misty, but they're so dang bulky. 

For me, 5 gear loops is a must. It's just so nice to have all my anchor supplies on the rear rather than on the same loops as my draws and bigger gear. I also prefer having my gear loops pretty forward, just so looking at my pieces is easier for onsight trad.

I was also seriously considering the Arc'teryx cquence, that one looks pretty solid. I just was worried the gear loops wouldn't fit my stick legs and that the loops would be to far back. My friend has the renegade by DMM, and that has plenty of space. 

The camp cr4 has worked well for me the past year. Can get tight on loops if you have more than a double rack, but it's dirt cheap and pretty comfy. If they added a fifth loop on there I'd probably only climb in those. 

Coming from a BD solution I’ve been using a C-quence for two years and I love it. Tried the Sendero and just hated it. Gear loops were too far back and not large enough. I keep it so I can lend it to people I don’t like. 

posted a review of the Sendero here: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118699904/edelrid-sendero-harness

Wild Country Syncro or DMM Renegade are very good for multipitch trad. 

https://youtu.be/kJAWw7HySy8

Love my Petzl Calidris. Go try a few on and see what fits you the best.

I was using a Solution and then upgraded to a Chaos, which is now discontinued and maybe replaced by the Solution Guide?  

I then got a MM.  

I have worn the MM on multi but it is really bulky.  However, the gear loops on the Chaos do leave something to be desired.

So, if I am being honest I grab the Chaos most often unless I am doing a lot of long trad pitches with a variety of different types of anchor configurations and need ALL THE GEAR.

So unfortunately I have not myself found the ideal solution either - certainly not the Solution!  Sorry...

I saw a glimpse in a recent YouTube video of what looked like an updated Petzl Alquila with a large 5th gear loop in the back. If this hits the market I'd imagine it'd be a fantastic multipitch harness.

Your question is too broad.

Hanging belays? No hanging belay? What's important, compressibility and weight... or comfort? Gear loops?

All these will point you in different directions. What you are willing to compromise on is a very personal thing.

I think it is important that the gear loops ends up in a good position and it is not possible to give advice on fit. I had the Edelrid Sendero and liket it. The gear loops could have been bigger. Now I have a Mammut Sender that I like a lot. Comfortable even for haning belays and light.

To add another one to the list of possibilities....I've been quite happy with my Petzl Adjama. 5 nice sized gear loops, comfortable, lite...what's not to like about it. 

I have an Ocun Twist Tech that I really like it.  It's got a wide hip belt with 5 gear loops that are decently sized.

But I also can't recommend a misty enough. It really is my go to harness for multi pitch trad. 

Has anyone tried the Mammut Comfort Fast Adjust?

https://www.mammut.com/us/en/products/2020-00920/comfort-fast-adjust-harness-men

I’ve had the mammut comfort fast adjust for awhile and it’s ok. Doesn’t really shine anywhere, but it’s decent. I recently got a metolius all around as a gift and it is by far the most bombproof, comfy harness I’ve ever worn. Took a bit to dial in the fit, but it’s so good now. Some folks don’t like the round gear loops, but I appreciate the extra space. I keep the mammut for sport climbing and wide cracks 

Wictor Dahlström wrote:

I think it is important that the gear loops ends up in a good position and it is not possible to give advice on fit. I had the Edelrid Sendero and liket it. The gear loops could have been bigger. Now I have a Mammut Sender that I like a lot. Comfortable even for haning belays and light.

When it comes to the Sendero, sizing is important. In sizes smaller than Large, there's overlap between the rearmost gear loop and the the middle two that renders the back loop almost unusable. This overlap isn't represented in any of Edelrid's marketing materials, but it's an issue that they're aware of. Personally, I found the gear loops to be too small and too far back to be good for trad anyways. 

I run a Blue Ice Cuesta now. It's wildly comfortable and has four huge gear loops that are well positioned. I might at some point use accessory cord to add a fifth, but I haven't come even close to filling it up yet, even with a double rack.

Petzl adjama has been great to me. Padded just enough. Packs down small. 5th gear loop, adjustable legs for my thick thighs, can’t complain about much.

Nathan Bilthuis wrote:

Petzl adjama has been great to me. Padded just enough. Packs down small. 5th gear loop, adjustable legs for my thick thighs, can’t complain about much.

Until you drop your rack into the abyss.  

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/122094351/gear-loop-failure-on-ancient-art

I like the Edelrid Ace and Solution Guide. Done a lot of hanging around in them

Singing rock dome harness! 7gearloop and it's comfy! 

Ah yes, the search for the perfect harness. My personal main harness requirements are:

- “modern” design: wide flat waist and leg bands rather than padding

- fixed leg loops: I generally find that with a well fitting harness a fixed leg loop still accommodates a range of pants from shorts to alpine layers

- large gear loops (and rear haul loop/gear loop) and ice clipper slots (ideally 4) 

- comfort and fit: (subjective)

Top of the list for me:

Arc’teryx harnesses: the FL365 was perfect for me. I have small gripes about the C-Quence but it also works. AR395 would work with the sacrifice of the fixed leg loop preference. Word on the street is that they are testing a new harness to replace the FL365 and it’s successor, the C-Quence. I think I’ve seen a pic of it, and I liked the way it looked too.

I have not tried, but considered:

- Petzl Sitta: expensive, very light weight (durability concerns)

- Mammut Sender: looks nice, haven’t really tried it at all

- Edelrid Sendero (noted about the small gear loops)

- Black Diamond Technician: unfortunately not as comfortable as their Solution line, smaller gear loops than I would prefer

- wild country session: don’t love the gap between gear loops, only 2 ice clipper slots, buckles on legs

- Trango Horizon: (leg buckles but otherwise doesn’t look bad)

harnesses that don’t do it for me:

-Camp: don’t love the shape of the gear loops

- misty mountain: too overbuilt and old school

- BD momentum/Solution: (solution is crazy cormfortable, but gear loops are tiny)

- Other Petzl harnesses: weird gear loops, no ice clippers

Biggest gripe: why won’t BD put ice clipper slots on the Solution Guide and enlarge the front and rear gear loops by about 2 cm? Then it would be the perfect harness. Nonetheless, it appears to be a very popular harness, and friends say they can fit everything on it that they need.

Anyway, my hot take would be the Arc’teryx harnesses if you want larger gear loops and ice clipper slots (just be careful on the sizing if you get the C-Quence, it runs large). BD Solution Guide if you don’t mind the lack of clippers and slightly smaller gear loops.

Tim N wrote:

Ah yes, the search for the perfect harness. My personal main harness requirements are:

- “modern” design: wide flat waist and leg bands rather than padding

- fixed leg loops: I generally find that with a well fitting harness a fixed leg loop still accommodates a range of pants from shorts to alpine layers

- large gear loops (and rear haul loop/gear loop) and ice clipper slots (ideally 4) 

- comfort and fit: (subjective)

Top of the list for me:

Arc’teryx harnesses: the FL365 was perfect for me. I have small gripes about the C-Quence but it also works. AR395 would work with the sacrifice of the fixed leg loop preference. Word on the street is that they are testing a new harness to replace the FL365 and it’s successor, the C-Quence. I think I’ve seen a pic of it, and I liked the way it looked too.

I have not tried, but considered:

- Petzl Sitta: expensive, very light weight (durability concerns)

- Mammut Sender: looks nice, haven’t really tried it at all

- Edelrid Sendero (noted about the small gear loops)

- Black Diamond Technician: unfortunately not as comfortable as their Solution line, smaller gear loops than I would prefer

- wild country session: don’t love the gap between gear loops, only 2 ice clipper slots, buckles on legs

- Trango Horizon: (leg buckles but otherwise doesn’t look bad)

harnesses that don’t do it for me:

-Camp: don’t love the shape of the gear loops

- misty mountain: too overbuilt and old school

- BD momentum/Solution: (solution is crazy cormfortable, but gear loops are tiny)

- Other Petzl harnesses: weird gear loops, no ice clippers

Biggest gripe: why won’t BD put ice clipper slots on the Solution Guide and enlarge the front and rear gear loops by about 2 cm? Then it would be the perfect harness. Nonetheless, it appears to be a very popular harness, and friends say they can fit everything on it that they need.

Anyway, my hot take would be the Arc’teryx harnesses if you want larger gear loops and ice clipper slots (just be careful on the sizing if you get the C-Quence, it runs large). BD Solution Guide if you don’t mind the lack of clippers and slightly smaller gear loops.

The new Arc'teryx Konseal listed on the website, or something different?