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UP Mocc: Thoughts/Reviews Needed

Original Post
Nick Rist · · Auburn, AL · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 30

Can anyone comment on the quality of unparallel's moccasyms? I've never tried a slipper but want to get into easy/intermediate crack/OW climbing and was thinking about trying them.

K L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

I have several friends who own and love them. Consensus from them is that the quality and performance is better than the OG Moccs. I've been meaning to try a pair myself although its worth mentioning most prefer a stiffer shoe for easy - moderate cracks.

Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 738

Offwidth no, thin cracks yes. Also pretty good for  smearing on those AL slopers.  Slippers have no support, so your feet are gonna get tired… until they get stronger.

Steven Sutin · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 50

Probably the best value shoe for crack climbing. They look well made, but the stitching is tearing on mine after just a little bit of use

Tal M · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 3,926

Rubber is absurdly sticky, but yeah they’re a mocc with no support so your dogs will be barking if you take them on a long route

Choss Connoisseur · · SLC · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 15

You’ll want something stiffer with ankle protection for OW climbing. I love them for everything else though

Matt Schilowitz · · California · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 381

Great shoes with some caveats. They are soft and not supportive so not ideal for offwidth (stiff shoes will bridge across a crack better than soft ones which will bow easily). They are fantastic for thin crack climbing since the toe profile will let you get deeper and therefore more purchase. This is easily noticeable on cracks (granite and sandstone) below .75 Camelot size. They also are great for smearing and friction slab climbing. They are comfortable and convenient. My biggest dislike is that the top patch of rubber has a tendency to peel back from the toe after just a few crack climbs since it is a separate piece. This happened on friends shoes too so I know it’s not just that mine is defective. I used superglue to put it back into place. This is an obvious flaw which should hopefully get fixed in an updated model. Overall, a good shoe which really performs on some specific climbs (slabs, thin cracks), but not great as your only shoe.

Terry Owens · · Reno · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 5

I have two pairs, had my gym pair resoled by UP back in December. My gym pair is sized down one size from what their chart recommends. Second pair that I use outside for finger cracks is sized to their chart. 

They're the most versatile shoes that I own. Super sticky and sensitive, killer for finger cracks, and they're comfy. 

I usually wear my TCs for offwidth for the ankle protection, but I find these shoes excel at everything. I even sold my Solutions because I prefer these for sport/gym climbing. 

Alek Fredriksson · · Columbia, MD · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 969

Awesome shoe! Have had them very tight previously in multiple pairs, but am definitely getting them again in the future in a more comfortable size. I know many people who also love them. Build quality is quite good imo, however myself and a friend of mine who also has particularly sweaty feet couldn’t get ours resoled for some reason. 

Nathan Sullivan · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

I love mine, they're... well, better Moccs, period, and worked great in Indian Creek last year. So far they haven't torn like my recent 5.10 Moccasyms have done in the last two pairs. I don't think mine have any damage other than sole wear honestly.

Oh, to echo everyone else you really want stiff, high-top shoes for offwidth - I'd get TC pros, or the Butora Altura as an alternative. I have both and I'm starting to like the Altura in Voo offwidths more than TCs, though this pair is still new to me. I plan to wreck 'em more and see what I like better as soon as Voo thaws out.

Nick Rist · · Auburn, AL · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 30

Thanks to everyone who answered. I moved on from the moccs and am looking for a stiffer shoe (probably Masais since I like my other Tenayas) but I'll consider them if I ever need get on some Indian Creek style cracks (not that many in AL) or want to try a different kind of bouldering shoe. Really psyched to learn some OW.

Adam Mac · · VT · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 73
K L wrote:

Consensus from them is that the quality and performance is better than the OG Moccs.

OG Moccs (the ones with white x's on the pull tabs) are higher quality. I work as a climbing shoe resoler. It appears to me that the leather was thicker, the OG C4 compound was thicker, and the stitching seemed to hold up better. That's not to say the UPMoccs are low quality. They're very similar to the Moccs you bought in 2012 or so (5.10 is written on the pull tab on these ones). Additionally, the UPMoccs have a tensioned heel cup :-)

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

https://www.unparallelsports.com/product/up-rise-pro/

Tom Randall uses these for all his offwidth shenanigans, I imagine they're pretty good for it. 

Mo King · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 0

Don’t waste your money. I got a hole in the toe after a couple months of light gym use. Feeling the rubber you can tell it’s pretty thin there, even compared to the other shoe. Best case scenario: poor quality control? Worst case: just plain poor quality. I contacted Unparralled for a warranty and haven't heard back for months. I tried to review on their website but they won't post it. My last climbing shoes lasted 4 years without a hole and 1/4 of the price. High price doesn’t always mean high quality.

Camdon Kay · · Idaho · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 3,557
Mo King wrote:

My last climbing shoes lasted 4 years without a hole and 1/4 of the price. High price doesn’t always mean high quality.

Where’d you find $30 shoes?

James L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 0
Mo King wrote:

Don’t waste your money. I got a hole in the toe after a couple months of light gym use. Feeling the rubber you can tell it’s pretty thin there, even compared to the other shoe. Best case scenario: poor quality control? Worst case: just plain poor quality. I contacted Unparralled for a warranty and haven't heard back for months. I tried to review on their website but they won't post it. My last climbing shoes lasted 4 years without a hole and 1/4 of the price. High price doesn’t always mean high quality.

But these aren't expensive shoes? And blowing a hole in the toe of a shoe in a few months is pretty common if you drag your toes my dude.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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