UP Mocc: Thoughts/Reviews Needed
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Can anyone comment on the quality of unparallel's moccasyms? I've never tried a slipper but want to get into easy/intermediate crack/OW climbing and was thinking about trying them. |
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I have several friends who own and love them. Consensus from them is that the quality and performance is better than the OG Moccs. I've been meaning to try a pair myself although its worth mentioning most prefer a stiffer shoe for easy - moderate cracks. |
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Offwidth no, thin cracks yes. Also pretty good for smearing on those AL slopers. Slippers have no support, so your feet are gonna get tired… until they get stronger. |
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Probably the best value shoe for crack climbing. They look well made, but the stitching is tearing on mine after just a little bit of use |
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Rubber is absurdly sticky, but yeah they’re a mocc with no support so your dogs will be barking if you take them on a long route |
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You’ll want something stiffer with ankle protection for OW climbing. I love them for everything else though |
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Great shoes with some caveats. They are soft and not supportive so not ideal for offwidth (stiff shoes will bridge across a crack better than soft ones which will bow easily). They are fantastic for thin crack climbing since the toe profile will let you get deeper and therefore more purchase. This is easily noticeable on cracks (granite and sandstone) below .75 Camelot size. They also are great for smearing and friction slab climbing. They are comfortable and convenient. My biggest dislike is that the top patch of rubber has a tendency to peel back from the toe after just a few crack climbs since it is a separate piece. This happened on friends shoes too so I know it’s not just that mine is defective. I used superglue to put it back into place. This is an obvious flaw which should hopefully get fixed in an updated model. Overall, a good shoe which really performs on some specific climbs (slabs, thin cracks), but not great as your only shoe. |
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I have two pairs, had my gym pair resoled by UP back in December. My gym pair is sized down one size from what their chart recommends. Second pair that I use outside for finger cracks is sized to their chart. They're the most versatile shoes that I own. Super sticky and sensitive, killer for finger cracks, and they're comfy. I usually wear my TCs for offwidth for the ankle protection, but I find these shoes excel at everything. I even sold my Solutions because I prefer these for sport/gym climbing. |
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Awesome shoe! Have had them very tight previously in multiple pairs, but am definitely getting them again in the future in a more comfortable size. I know many people who also love them. Build quality is quite good imo, however myself and a friend of mine who also has particularly sweaty feet couldn’t get ours resoled for some reason. |
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I love mine, they're... well, better Moccs, period, and worked great in Indian Creek last year. So far they haven't torn like my recent 5.10 Moccasyms have done in the last two pairs. I don't think mine have any damage other than sole wear honestly. Oh, to echo everyone else you really want stiff, high-top shoes for offwidth - I'd get TC pros, or the Butora Altura as an alternative. I have both and I'm starting to like the Altura in Voo offwidths more than TCs, though this pair is still new to me. I plan to wreck 'em more and see what I like better as soon as Voo thaws out. |
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Thanks to everyone who answered. I moved on from the moccs and am looking for a stiffer shoe (probably Masais since I like my other Tenayas) but I'll consider them if I ever need get on some Indian Creek style cracks (not that many in AL) or want to try a different kind of bouldering shoe. Really psyched to learn some OW. |
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K L wrote: OG Moccs (the ones with white x's on the pull tabs) are higher quality. I work as a climbing shoe resoler. It appears to me that the leather was thicker, the OG C4 compound was thicker, and the stitching seemed to hold up better. That's not to say the UPMoccs are low quality. They're very similar to the Moccs you bought in 2012 or so (5.10 is written on the pull tab on these ones). Additionally, the UPMoccs have a tensioned heel cup :-) |
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https://www.unparallelsports.com/product/up-rise-pro/ Tom Randall uses these for all his offwidth shenanigans, I imagine they're pretty good for it. |
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Don’t waste your money. I got a hole in the toe after a couple months of light gym use. Feeling the rubber you can tell it’s pretty thin there, even compared to the other shoe. Best case scenario: poor quality control? Worst case: just plain poor quality. I contacted Unparralled for a warranty and haven't heard back for months. I tried to review on their website but they won't post it. My last climbing shoes lasted 4 years without a hole and 1/4 of the price. High price doesn’t always mean high quality. |
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Mo King wrote: Where’d you find $30 shoes? |
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Mo King wrote: But these aren't expensive shoes? And blowing a hole in the toe of a shoe in a few months is pretty common if you drag your toes my dude. |