Screw, Ball, Twist or Triact Lock for GriGri/ATC?

Would like your opinions on what type of locker to use for a GriGri and ATC.

I really like the feel and design of the Petzl Am'd, but am on the fence on the lock type.

Doesn’t matter

https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Choice-of-carabiner-for-attaching-a-GRIGRI-to-the-harness?ActivityName=Rock-climbing

I use the Spirit screw gate.

Use one of the lockers with anti-crossload design (Gridlock, DMM Belay Master or Ceros etc).

Petzl Sm'D twist lock (2 stage, red gate) is my favorite for the grigri, basically never cross-loads and is really quick. I flip it so the skinny end is against the device and the wide end is on my belay loop. 

I agree with not using twist gates when the rope runs over it, screw or triple action in that case.

I like the Petzl Willian for “critical” points of attachment. Belay, rappel, master point, etc 

For GriGri I think the DMM Ceros Locksafe (green gate) is pretty awesome.  Really positive triple action auto lock, little bump on the spine to keep the grigri from sliding around and crossloading, wire gate keeper for belay loop end. Not the lightest, and pretty much a purpose built belay carabiner so might not be appropriate in all situations, but it does what it does well.

For ATC, I'm happy with pretty much any screw lock biner. I have some of the Petzl triact lockers but the gate action never felt right to me.

Garrett Hopkins wrote:

I like the Petzl Willian for “critical” points of attachment. Belay, rappel, master point, etc 

Not recommended by Petzl for the grigri. Petzl howevery states that you should not use a HMS locker.

M Wolf wrote:

For GriGri I think the DMM Ceros Locksafe (green gate) is pretty awesome.  Really positive triple action auto lock, little bump on the spine to keep the grigri from sliding around and crossloading, wire gate keeper for belay loop end. Not the lightest, and pretty much a purpose built belay carabiner so might not be appropriate in all situations, but it does what it does well.

For ATC, I'm happy with pretty much any screw lock biner. I have some of the Petzl triact lockers but the gate action never felt right to me.

I have a DMM Rhino. I dont think the feature adds anything expect that you cant rack the grigri in a good way. The Rhino is a nice locker, but it tries to solve a kind of imaginary problem. Petzl does not them selves make any such lockers.

Wictor Dahlström wrote:

Not recommended by Petzl for the grigri. Petzl howevery states that you should not use a HMS locker.

I have a DMM Rhino. I dont think the feature adds anything expect that you cant rack the grigri in a good way. The Rhino is a nice locker, but it tries to solve a kind of imaginary problem. Petzl does not them selves make any such lockers.

I also bought a DMM Rhino years ago to use with my GriGri but found it similarly annoying so now I use the Rhino with my CT RollNLock. 

Really any small D carabiner is the best for the GriGri, don't use an HMS or it'll spin around and cross load often. 

You guys are using lockers?

Wictor Dahlström wrote:

Not recommended by Petzl for the grigri. Petzl howevery states that you should not use a HMS locker.

I have a DMM Rhino. I dont think the feature adds anything expect that you cant rack the grigri in a good way. The Rhino is a nice locker, but it tries to solve a kind of imaginary problem. Petzl does not them selves make any such lockers.

this isn’t an imaginary problem. when simulclimbing or toprope soloing it’s important to keep the grigri in the right orientation. a carabiner with a horn and anti-crossroad feature does this perfectly. my favorite is the grivel clepsydra k10gs, it’s tailor-made for a grigri and i love the twin-gate

Will N wrote:

this isn’t an imaginary problem. when simulclimbing or toprope soloing it’s important to keep the grigri in the right orientation. a carabiner with a horn and anti-crossroad feature does this perfectly. my favorite is the grivel clepsydra k10gs, it’s tailor-made for a grigri and i love the twin-gate

Sure, there it can be more of a consideration. But I´m pretty sure the orginal poster has no intention of doing either.

Will N wrote:

this isn’t an imaginary problem. when simulclimbing or toprope soloing it’s important to keep the grigri in the right orientation. a carabiner with a horn and anti-crossroad feature does this perfectly. my favorite is the grivel clepsydra k10gs, it’s tailor-made for a grigri and i love the twin-gate

Your choosing the worst solution to the problem, just use a mallion. 

Wictor Dahlström wrote:

Sure, there it can be more of a consideration. But I´m pretty sure the orginal poster has no intention of doing either.

sure, that's fair, but it's unfair to say these types of carabiners solve an imaginary problem! ✌

Grivel Twin Gate. 

Will N wrote:

sure, that's fair, but it's unfair to say these types of carabiners solve an imaginary problem! ✌

Well, it is not that DMM advertise these to be used for rope soloing and the grigri would likley break before the carabiner in a strange fall. 

Alec Baker wrote:

"I fell 20 feet back to the rivet, the hanger broke, and I continued directly onto the belay—factor 2! The rope came tight on my Grigri, but then the locking carabiner just snapped off and I continued to fall for another 20 feet, which was the slack to my backup knot—all that kept me from the talus field below. When I came to a stop, the Grigri was 20 feet above me still on the rope."

"The Belay Master is normally equipped with a plastic guard that prevents cross-loading the ’biner, by separating the harness and the Grigri. But the guard on mine had been stolen so I had decided to go without one. We never found the ’biner, but I think it most likely became cross-loaded between the Grigri and the harness loop, dropping it’s breaking strength to well within the danger zone."

Hey, do you want/need a replacement plastic piece for the Belay Master? (Assumes you have another BM locker)  I have one.

Alec Baker wrote:

"I fell 20 feet back to the rivet, the hanger broke, and I continued directly onto the belay—factor 2! The rope came tight on my Grigri, but then the locking carabiner just snapped off and I continued to fall for another 20 feet, which was the slack to my backup knot—all that kept me from the talus field below. When I came to a stop, the Grigri was 20 feet above me still on the rope."

"The Belay Master is normally equipped with a plastic guard that prevents cross-loading the ’biner, by separating the harness and the Grigri. But the guard on mine had been stolen so I had decided to go without one. We never found the ’biner, but I think it most likely became cross-loaded between the Grigri and the harness loop, dropping it’s breaking strength to well within the danger zone."

This was from LEAD soloing, not top rope soloing. if you're lead soloing, you should be using a maillon or other carabiner that is rated *against the gate* (ANSI Z359.12) in the event of crossloading. It's not a beginner activity, and a rhino or equivalent will not help you. For top rope soloing, a grigri is a terrible device, and again, the rhino "solution" is the least of your problems.

a twistlock sm'd is my personal fave for a grigri for belaying.