DIY removable sleeve bolts (for development, not as permanent hardware)

I'm just sharing a simple hack to sleeve bolts if you wish to make them more easily removable. (I live in Taiwan, so some of the hardware I get locally may be different from where you're at)

At local hardware stores here, I can find 3/8" SS304 sleeve anchors that use a 12.7mm (1/2") hole in various lengths. (I also found off the internet some nicer 10mm sleeve anchors that use a 12mm hole that I prefer using now instead). (The hole size is what I like to use for Bolt Products Twist Bolts if I'm using the same hole for a glue-in later).

Similar to the Fixe Triplex that have a little flange-like lip, I will take an angle grinder to the sleeve and cut out some tabs (about 5mm deep) and then fold them outward. This create a lip that sits flush and outside the hole. It gives me something to pull on/pry to help get the sleeve out.

(For more easier removal, you could also wallow-out the hole a tad more, cause if you find yourself having to forcefully hammer the anchor in, it'll be tougher to remove the sleeve when the time comes.) I currently take these removable sleeve anchors to 20nm of torque. (I've also played around and over-torqued them over 80nm. I was still able to get the nut off and remove them, however the sleeve was warped beyond further usage and the threads were slightly damaged)

I also sent Ryan from HowNOT2, these removable bolts I made. For the 3/8" 304 stainless steel hardware-store sleeve anchor, they sheared off at 24.5kN. I'm my opinion, that's plenty good enough for my personal current application. And I'm sure there are better stronger sleeve anchors that can be sourced. I'm just sharing what's been cheap, accessible, and plenty strong for my needs/applications.

Maybe you too have a need for some cheap temporary bolts. But it's still ultimately your responsibility whether to use them or not for your own application.

PLEASE NOTE: Again, I am in NO way advocating or saying it's OK for cheap hardware-store items be installed in our crags as permanent anchors/bolts. I've been using these temporary bolts during crag development stages. Each climber is responsible for his own choice of gear/equipment/hardware and choices anyways.

(And the concrete screws I get here suck, and don't work in the quartzite at our new crag.)

Why not use a 1/2" hanger and put it on below the tabs? Then you can pull on/funkness the hanger to get the sleeve out.

https://fixehardware.com/index.php/fixe-plx-duplex-ss-12-x-90mm-triplex-3-piece-bolt.html

The 12mm 3 piece fixe bolts are super easy to remove if you put them in a 1/2" hole.  In a 12mm hole, takes a lot more fanagling, but I'm sure that's for a reason

Alex R wrote:

Why not use a 1/2" hanger and put it on below the tabs? Then you can pull on/funkness the hanger to get the sleeve out.

I think this set up was the main reason the Triplex bolt had so many user error issues. An outward pull on on the hanger can disengage the sleeve and cause the bolt to fail. For pure shear force applications, this would work alright. 

Cole Lawrence wrote:

I think this set up was the main reason the Triplex bolt had so many user error issues. An outward pull on on the hanger can disengage the sleeve and cause the bolt to fail. For pure shear force applications, this would work alright. 

Fixe specifically says you're supposed to use a 1/2" hanger on their website.  I imagine they specified this to end the debate

Greg Barnes wrote:

https://fixehardware.com/index.php/fixe-plx-duplex-ss-12-x-90mm-triplex-3-piece-bolt.html

Fixe Triplex aren't available locally and I'd have to order them internationally, which adds to the cost. And the Petzl Coeur Pulse is too expensive for me. A hardware store sleeve anchor I could get here in Taiwan and use costs me the equivalent $1 USD, and has worked fine for my different applications. The purpose of this post is to share cheaper options, and something simple someone could do to a sleeve anchor if they had the need for it to be more easily removable. 

Jim Day wrote:

Fixe specifically says you're supposed to use a 1/2" hanger on their website.  I imagine they specified this to end the debate

I was referring to the suggestion to place the hanger beneath the flange, not the diameter of the hole.

This configuration does work, but the bolt should remain under proper torque… otherwise the sleeve and bolt can come out easily under a outward pull. 

Cole Lawrence wrote:

I was referring to the suggestion to place the hanger beneath the flange, not the diameter of the hole.

This configuration does work, but the bolt should remain under proper torque… otherwise the sleeve and bolt can come out easily under a outward pull. 

Yes, and I'm saying that fixe specifies to use a 1/2" hanger

Kevin Maliczak wrote:

Fixe Triplex aren't available locally and I'd have to order them internationally, which adds to the cost. And the Petzl Coeur Pulse is too expensive for me. A hardware store sleeve anchor I could get here in Taiwan and use costs me the equivalent $1 USD, and has worked fine for my different applications. The purpose of this post is to share cheaper options, and something simple someone could do to a sleeve anchor if they had the need for it to be more easily removable. 

I see your method as a cheap alternative and enginuitive, simple approach to a problem. With a little common sense, I think it would be perfectly safe, so long (as you have stated) it’s not used in a permanent application. Neat idea, thanks!