Important information about sharp biners and ropes cutting.

I thought this was a good vid.

It certainly opened my eyes to the sharp biner/old or thin rope combination.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=dpmUFQhMdbI&feature=share

Nice video.

Some time ago I came across similar video, go to 4min 40s if linking to timestamp doesn't work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nv441b0-Esw&list=PLxurkVGrssvNQbqENNNC8YUAjrY7xcPt2&t=281s 

Thanks Mark! I fell on some sharp biners the other day and replaced them with steel djinns, but this video has me going GULP

In particular, the "new" (or maybe I'm just old) I-beam shaped carabiners deserve extra attention. A lot less material needs to wear away to form an edge. You may find yourself retiring them while they are still plenty strong, but have an edge that is not safe.

For belaying, a carabiner with a nice round profile helps avoid the problem. For top-roping, steel carabiners are great, and will keep the rope cleaner too.

Everyone in the video is terrified because everyone in the video has taken a fall or climbed on perma-draws that have looked lie this. 

It is something that I am aware of now but as a new climber I was somewhat ignorant to, especially when a carabiner was worn did not "feel" particularly sharp. 

I never gave much credence to the top, bolt clipping biner getting burrs on in it but I’m sure going to keep my eye out for it now.

Really fascinating stuff when they mention the pre crux draw getting sharp and cutting a rope when it finally held a fall. Wanted to mention another one to watch for  is the first draw will become sharp because of the sharper angle from the belayer to the bolt line, if that makes sense.