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Joshua Tree recommendations - easy/moderate trad crack climbs
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Hey! I'll be in Josh on Friday 4/15 and Saturday 4/16 and am looking to climb moderate cracks on gear. Want to hit classics. On gear I'm leading 5.8 granite (Little Cottonwood / Yosemite) and 5.9 sandstone (Red Rock). Comfortable on splitter cracks. More comfortable on cracks than 5.moderate face/lieback/smearing climbing. On my list so far is: - "Ace of Spades" 5.9 ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) - "Mental Physics" 5.7 ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) - "Overhang Bypass" 5.7 ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) - "Room to Shroom" 5.9 ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) - "Route 66" 5.4 ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) Would love other recommendations. Going with my dad. He likes to climb 5.easy so happy to climb anything if we both can have a good time. |
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Reached out to friends, more stuff to think about here... - heart of darkness 11a ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) - hot rocks 11b/c ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) - double cross 5.7+ ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) - bird of fire 10a ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) - dogleg 5.8+ ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) - funky dng 5.8 ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) - rubicon 5.10c ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) - prepackaged 5.10a ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) |
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Double Cross (5.7+), Dogleg (5.8+), and Toe Jam (5.7) are all great if Hidden Valley isn't too busy! And Dappled Mare (5.8) is a lot of fun if you want a multi-pitch. ETA: Bird of Fire was awesome!!! |
james climbs wrote: The recommendation is that you consider that your first list involves 4 movements of car and separate approaches of over 30 min for most of those. The second list compounds the problem. In 2 days on a weekend, perhaps the question should be, what area might maximize the efficiency of climbing a certain type of route at a certain grade range |
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Following up on what Phylp said, pick an area. For example, White Cliffs of Dover has a number of quality moderates, including Ace of Spades and Popular Mechanics, and you walk right past Baskerville Rock which has a couple really nice .10 climbs. Maximize climbing time and minimize driving/hiking time. |
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In addition to what others have said, you are going on a weekend during spring break. A lot of people will have the same objectives as you. Don't expect to be alone at most of the places that you go to. Go early and/or have a backup plan. Also, if you are leading 5.8 on gear and your dad wants to climb 5.fun, I am not sure why your friends would recommend climbs like Hot Rocks and Rubicon. |
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Locomotion rock in RHV! |
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I was just there a few weeks ago and re-did the The Swift, 3 pitch 5.7 with some nice moderate crack climbing, on Lost Horse Wall, right near Dappled Mare, a great 4 pitch 5.8, which I climbed on a previous trip. We then went to Rock Garden and climbed Rock-a-Lot, Rock Candy, and Split Personality - my first 5.9 lead! Lot's of great JTree crack climbing! |
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As mentioned above, keep the crowds in mind and the location of the different areas. If you are leading 5.8 granite, try some easier routes first. If you want to climb in the Hidden Valley area or Hemmingway, do that on the Friday or start very early on Saturday. Mental Physics is great, but it's a popular and fairly isolated route, so you may not get on a lot of routes that day if you go there. I second Rock Garden Valley as a good idea; that area can keep you busy all day and is a great spot. Here are some other options for you: Hall of Horrors (Lazy Day, Perhaps, Nurns Romp, Exorcist). Future Games Rock (Continuum, Invisibility lessons, Sandblast). Snickers wall (Funny bone, Norwegian wood) Easier routes include the bong and upper right ski track. Both are well worth doing. |
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THE FLAKE |
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Thanks for the replies! We had a great trip. Mental Physics was our favorite! |
