Mountain Project Logo

Evolv Shaman 2022 Strap and Lace

Original Post
Jacob Rankin · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 40

Anyone try out the new Shamans? Curious to know how they compare and really want to know how the lace version feels. I could not find much on what was actually updated with the remodel either.

Zach G · · Jacksonville, FL · Joined Mar 2022 · Points: 0

Posting to keep track of this. I'd also like some info on this, looking for some new shoes and I owned the shamans like 5(ish) years ago. Always thought they would fit better with laces.

Shawn V · · Truckee · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 20

Have the new laces on the way so will update when they get here. They are supposed to be really similar to the Oracle, and are basically replacing them. They will be discontinuing the Oracle from what I was told. 

Jacob Rankin · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 40

You happen to get the laces in yet?

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 55

I’ve got them both, been wearing the Velcro in the gym and the lace outside. The lace is stiffer, more powerful and has more downturn. I prefer the toe box of the lace also. I think the lace would out perform the Velcro in everything but smearing. Both are very comfortable in street shoe size. 

B G · · New England · Joined May 2018 · Points: 41

I tried the new Velcro on a gym demo day. It didn't fit my heel as well so I bought an old pair of shamans for now. Other people seem to like the transition just fine

Shawn V · · Truckee · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 20

Got the laces in, they fit the same as my Oracles in the same size. The laces go down further on the new Shaman’s so you can get a tighter more precise fit. But there is also less rubber on the toe due to the longer laces. Feel similar to the Oracles when I climb but even better on small granite edges. 
Dan Dan · · Canada · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Anyone else have more thoughts on these? I always liked the Oracle and heard that they were good for a wide forefoot/narrow heel so the Shaman Lace is really intriguing to me. They do look more aggressive than the Instinct Lace which I like the versatility of. How's the heel on these? The Instincts hold for me, but there's always been some dead space under since the heel is fairly square and mine is bulbous and round. I've only tried the cheap Evolvs which I found were still quite square and had a bit of deadspace on the sides.

Jacob Rankin · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 40

I have been wearing the new Shaman Laces for just long enough to say they are broken in. They are essentially the exact same shoe as the old model Shamans but with laces. I will say that they did take a little longer to break in and the heel initially felt larger than the old model. However, the heel ended up molding to my foot after break in and they feel the same now. 

I have tried the Insticts twice before and I never felt they quite fit my heel either and were slightly to large/had dead space. I can't say too much about the Oracles but the Shamans look more aggressive than they actually are (especially after initial break in). They don't push the toes into a "crimp" position and instead have an ever slight downturn in the toe combined with more of a tighter space to give a secure feeling. I personally like them a lot because I can still shove my toes into a crack and still get power off of a micro edge on the face. 

Peter Funk · · Lenexa, KS · Joined May 2021 · Points: 0

I feel the Shaman Lace are functionally similar to the Oracle. Looking at the two side by side. The laces go down further on the Shaman and conversely the toe rubber patch is larger on the the Oracle. Neither of which factored in to my climbing granted I'm not exactly pushing the limits of human capabilities. The biggest difference between the two for me is the tongue. The Shaman has a thinner, neoprene like tongue where as the Oracle has a puffy foam filled tongue. Once again not a factor in my climbing but I prefer the cleaner look of the neoprene vs the way the padded tongue would bunch when tightened down. 

Full disclosure I am an Evolv fan. Their lasts seem to be made for my feet, so I have a bit of collection of Evolv shoes. I use the Shaman Lace/Oracle as my medium comfort shoe and primary gym weapon. I run them a half size down from street shoe (I tend to like a bit of room in front of my toes on street shoes so your millage may vary). The Phantoms are my try-hard shoe. I run them a full size down from street shoe. The Generals are my all day shoe at street shoe size. The Phantoms have to come off immediately after a pitch, where as the Shaman/Oracle can stay on for a couple of pitches and the Generals I could wear to a BBQ. Also to note the Phantoms have a very flat toe for a climbing shoe which for me makes downsizing less painful and thereby gives me more confidence on tiny chips and edges, but can be an issue on small pockets. The Shaman's have a toe much more typical of climbing shoes. 

I also feel the Shaman/Oracle tend to break-in more than the Phantoms. The Phantoms are made of neoprene and rubber, so they don't change much from out of the box. The Shamans and Oracles have more leather and will conform to your foot over time. Both have their advantages and applications. 

James L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 0
Peter Funk wrote:

I feel the Shaman Lace are functionally similar to the Oracle. Looking at the two side by side. The laces go down further on the Shaman and conversely the toe rubber patch is larger on the the Oracle. Neither of which factored in to my climbing granted I'm not exactly pushing the limits of human capabilities. The biggest difference between the two for me is the tongue. The Shaman has a thinner, neoprene like tongue where as the Oracle has a puffy foam filled tongue. Once again not a factor in my climbing but I prefer the cleaner look of the neoprene vs the way the padded tongue would bunch when tightened down. 

Full disclosure I am an Evolv fan. Their lasts seem to be made for my feet, so I have a bit of collection of Evolv shoes. I use the Shaman Lace/Oracle as my medium comfort shoe and primary gym weapon. I run them a half size down from street shoe (I tend to like a bit of room in front of my toes on street shoes so your millage may vary). The Phantoms are my try-hard shoe. I run them a full size down from street shoe. The Generals are my all day shoe at street shoe size. The Phantoms have to come off immediately after a pitch, where as the Shaman/Oracle can stay on for a couple of pitches and the Generals I could wear to a BBQ. Also to note the Phantoms have a very flat toe for a climbing shoe which for me makes downsizing less painful and thereby gives me more confidence on tiny chips and edges, but can be an issue on small pockets. The Shaman's have a toe much more typical of climbing shoes. 

I also feel the Shaman/Oracle tend to break-in more than the Phantoms. The Phantoms are made of neoprene and rubber, so they don't change much from out of the box. The Shamans and Oracles have more leather and will conform to your foot over time. Both have their advantages and applications. 

Do you feel that the Shaman Lace is significantly stiffer than the Oracle? I've been looking at both for my wide forefoot/skinny heel problems, and noticed the Lace had an additional midsole for "extra edging power." Edging power would be fine by me, but not so much that it's impossible to push into a smear on occasion.

Dan Dan · · Canada · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks guys. I ordered the new Shaman (as well as the Otaki to compare).

Peter Funk wrote:

The biggest difference between the two for me is the tongue. The Shaman has a thinner, neoprene like tongue where as the Oracle has a puffy foam filled tongue. Once again not a factor in my climbing but I prefer the cleaner look of the neoprene vs the way the padded tongue would bunch when tightened down. 

I only had a pair of Defy beaters, but I really disliked the puffy tongue Evolv was doing. Sure it felt plushy and comfortable, but it was just bulky and held in a lot of sweat and stink. I'd search for the Oracle on sale if they didn't have that tongue.  

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 55
James L wrote:

Do you feel that the Shaman Lace is significantly stiffer than the Oracle? I've been looking at both for my wide forefoot/skinny heel problems, and noticed the Lace had an additional midsole for "extra edging power." Edging power would be fine by me, but not so much that it's impossible to push into a smear on occasion.

Ive got the Shaman Lace and if I think I am going to be smearing a lot on something I really want to send I bring another pair of soft shoes to the crag. The Velcro is softer, that might be a better choice for you. 

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

How're you all sizing the Shaman Lace? I'm hearing street shoe size as a starting point - any anecdotes as to this?

Peter Funk · · Lenexa, KS · Joined May 2021 · Points: 0
James L wrote:

Do you feel that the Shaman Lace is significantly stiffer than the Oracle? I've been looking at both for my wide forefoot/skinny heel problems, and noticed the Lace had an additional midsole for "extra edging power." Edging power would be fine by me, but not so much that it's impossible to push into a smear on occasion.

To me they break in the same as the Oracle. They are certainly more pliable than the Phantoms or the Generals. 

Jacob Rankin · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 40
JCM wrote:

How're you all sizing the Shaman Lace? I'm hearing street shoe size as a starting point - any anecdotes as to this?

Most everyone who I have known that wears Shamans goes with street shoe size. I go with a half size larger. I'm street shoe size 11.5 but wear the 12 in Shamans.

Dan Dan · · Canada · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Just got the new Shamans in velcro (only option available near me) in. I'm a true 43 on a Brannock and went 10. They're definitely a performance fit and given that the Lace is stiffer (and obviously has laces) I'd probably go 10.5, which is weirdly a full Euro size up to 44 on Evolv's chart. The forefoot is narrower than the Sportiva Otaki (and probably the Skwama too). Not really sure how to anticipate stretch as they're synthetic and I've never had a pair before, one reviewer on REI said they went half up from street and wished they went true which has me hesitating. 

I've also seen a couple Evolv athletes promote the Shaman Lace and then I've seen them revert to the Oracle. Kind of interesting since they're supposed to be so similar, but it doesn't matter that much.

James L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 0
Dan Dan wrote:

Just got the new Shamans in velcro (only option available near me) in. I'm a true 43 on a Brannock and went 10. They're definitely a performance fit and given that the Lace is stiffer (and obviously has laces) I'd probably go 10.5, which is weirdly a full Euro size up to 44 on Evolv's chart. The forefoot is narrower than the Sportiva Otaki (and probably the Skwama too). Not really sure how to anticipate stretch as they're synthetic and I've never had a pair before, one reviewer on REI said they went half up from street and wished they went true which has me hesitating. 

I've also seen a couple Evolv athletes promote the Shaman Lace and then I've seen them revert to the Oracle. Kind of interesting since they're supposed to be so similar, but it doesn't matter that much.

Ah I'll probably order both sizes then, thanks! And with regards to the Oracle, I messaged Paul Robinson about this on Instagram, and he said that he still uses the Oracle occasionally for toehook intensive routes? Anna Hazelnutt seems to switch between the Shaman Lace and Oracle pretty often as well.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

I found this review to be useful info:

https://youtu.be/61AoR_O2lzw

---

Anyway, I got a pair of the Shaman Lace in my street shoe size (9.5). Sizing and fit felt about right for a snug performance shoe. Comfortable out of the box. Construction and design both seem quality. Just looks and feels like a performance shoe. Overall quite impressed. Three days of climbing in them so far - one day in the gym and two days of granite sport climbing, ranging from vert to steep.

It's a moderately stiff, very downturned shoe. I'd say it's best application is small edges on slightly to steeply overhanging terrain. The sharp downturn and moderate stiffness feels quite powerful digging into incut edges. It feels like you have a lot of leverage as you dig into and extend off from low feet. A well rounded sport climbing shoe, and I  think it will also be great for the granite bouldering around here Tahoe region) as well. Seems to heel hook quite well for me (good heel fit; moderately stuff heel insert). Toe rubber is good for shallow toe hooks, but doesn't extend far enough up the shoe for deep toe hooks 

It wouldn't be my first choice for gym bouldering (stiffer than ideal for that, only OK at toe hooks) or very smear-intensive outdoor climbs (such as slopey sandstone boulders). It's also not ideal at sustained vert tech edging; it just doesn't offer quite the stiffness and support needed for that terrain. For in-between terrain, essentially typical overhung sport climbing, it seems great. 

Disclaimer: this is a super preliminary assessment. Will update after more use.

Garrett Zollo · · Bellport, NY · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 80
Doug Chism wrote:

I’ve got them both, been wearing the Velcro in the gym and the lace outside. The lace is stiffer, more powerful and has more downturn. I prefer the toe box of the lace also. I think the lace would out perform the Velcro in everything but smearing. Both are very comfortable in street shoe size. 

Doug do you feel the new shaman is tje same size comparison as the last. Meaning  did you order a different size than you would’ve in the original shaman? 

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 55
Garrett Zollo wrote:

Doug do you feel the new shaman is tje same size comparison as the last. Meaning  did you order a different size than you would’ve in the original shaman? 

I never owned the first version. I tried them on once and didn’t like the fit. I seem to recall the heel feeling great but didn’t like the toe box. Recently I was at the gym during a shoe demo when I gave the lace a try just for kicks and loved it. I don’t know if the shoe changed or the salesman gave me the incorrect size back then, but I was a newer climber then and perhaps didn’t like the down turn way back and I’ve become used to it now. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Evolv Shaman 2022 Strap and Lace"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.