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Scotland Cuillin Ridge Partners Early June

Original Post
Dan Broman · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1

Hi! I'm going to be on Skye from May 30-Jun 4 and am very interested in making an attempt of the Cuillin Ridge (more scrambling than climbing) if there is a good weather window. I'll be coming from Boulder, CO, USA, and have a lot of scrambling experience. I'm hoping to use some of the easier bypasses around the harder climbing sections and just climb and rap what's needed to try and move quickly. I'm interested in partners as the person I was hoping to do it with can no longer make it. Also interested in advice on the route in general. I've done quite a bit of reading already and have Adrian Trendall's fantastic guide.

Francesca Parratt · · Worthing, West Sussex · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 160

Maybe check out ukclimbing.com it has a partner finder in the forums so more Brits/ Scots will read it. I’d love to do the Cuillin Ridge someday but I’ll be getting back into that work routine.

Jonathan Lagoe · · Boulder · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

I’ve done it a few times and this is what I would recommend:

Be fit and do it in a day. Bivvying means carrying a pack - and it’s much more fun to go fast and free. Set off from Glen Brittle at 3.30am and you’ll pass the folks bivvied at the start of the ridge as they are getting up.

Do a reccy if you can and stash food/water at one of the cols - An Dorus maybe. There’s no water on the ridge. 

I take a 40m rope, a few slings and nuts. Rap off Inn Pinn and maybe a rap on Bidein Druim Nan Ramh.

I prefer a trail shoe with a climbing friendly sole to anything chunkier.

Perhaps the most important piece of advice is to do it on a good dry day. Wet and misty is miserable, slippy and easy to get lost. 

June is the best month for weather and 18 hours of daylight (at least).

The Dubhs ridge is a great warm up. Probably the best scramble in Britain. If you are fast and confident on that you’ll be good to go.

Good luck - it’s awesome!

Victor Machtel · · Netherlands · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

I have free time just outside your window but am thinking about doing it in June/July so following for any input given by other users :)

Dan Broman · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1

Thanks everyone! I appreciate the feedback. @Jonathan Lagoe thanks for the info! I was working off of the rack recommendations in the Trendall guide and it matches well with your recs. I had also debated between my TX Guides and my Sportiva trail runners with sticky shoes (my flatiron scrambling shoes). Good to know they may have a use outside of Boulder :D. I had wanted to do a "warmup" so I'll star Dubhs ridge as one to check out.

@Francesca Parratt thanks for the info about ukclimbing.com! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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